I don't have a decent tripod yet
Still trying to decide on what to get, I don't want to break the bank - but also don't want to regret my decision later.
Maybe I must get a Mini laptop, and use that to change camera settings
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I don't have a decent tripod yet
Still trying to decide on what to get, I don't want to break the bank - but also don't want to regret my decision later.
Maybe I must get a Mini laptop, and use that to change camera settings
Moklet Kcuf
Senior Member
My HDR Tips
The amount of exposures for a HDR image all depends on the dynamic range you want to cover. In most cases, 3 exposures with a 2 stop separation is enough.
When there are extreme differences between light and dark. Such as night shots with bright street lights, or shooting directly into sunlight, that's when you need more exposures to cover your Dynamic Range.
Understanding Histogram readings on your camera are essential to know, for how many exposures you'll need.
Basically your Brightest/Slowest exposure needs to have its histogram not clipping off on the left/dark side of the graph. And you Darkest/Fastest exposure not clipping off on the right/bright side. By doing this, it ensures you have captured all the tonal information within your shot.
Here is a HDR image - 7 exposure 2 stops apart, taken at Paarden Island.
Other things to watch:
- You should ensure you're camera is on it's lowest ISO setting to minimise noise, that is otherwise magnified in HDR.
- Nice quality lenses help reduce Chromatic Aberration - aka the purple fringing you be talking about
The amount of exposures for a HDR image all depends on the dynamic range you want to cover. In most cases, 3 exposures with a 2 stop separation is enough.
When there are extreme differences between light and dark. Such as night shots with bright street lights, or shooting directly into sunlight, that's when you need more exposures to cover your Dynamic Range.
Understanding Histogram readings on your camera are essential to know, for how many exposures you'll need.
Basically your Brightest/Slowest exposure needs to have its histogram not clipping off on the left/dark side of the graph. And you Darkest/Fastest exposure not clipping off on the right/bright side. By doing this, it ensures you have captured all the tonal information within your shot.
Here is a HDR image - 7 exposure 2 stops apart, taken at Paarden Island.
Other things to watch:
- You should ensure you're camera is on it's lowest ISO setting to minimise noise, that is otherwise magnified in HDR.
- Nice quality lenses help reduce Chromatic Aberration - aka the purple fringing you be talking about
marine1
Honorary Master
Very nice
Holy crap thats amazingHere is a HDR image - 7 exposure 2 stops apart, taken at Paarden Island.
Just trying it out now on my AAO - DPP wont run because the screen is too small but the EOS utility seems to run just fine.I don't have a decent tripod yet
Still trying to decide on what to get, I don't want to break the bank - but also don't want to regret my decision later.
Maybe I must get a Mini laptop, and use that to change camera settings
EDIT - DPP is ok but DSLR Remote pro offers way more control - especially for AEB. Definitely playing with this over the weekend.
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Moklet Kcuf
Senior Member
In my opinion, using a laptop for remote control, I think would be overkill and a general pain in the arse. It's only ever practical for Studio or Organised photo shoots.
A sturdy tripod should be the first investment in HDR photography. Then a Cable trigger.
Gently coaxing your Shutter Speed dial shouldn't pose much of an issue, if using a good tripod. And if you dont have a Cable trigger, just set the camera on self timer.
Self Timer is especially useful when Bracketing. The camera will trigger all 3 (or more) exposures consecutively with one press.
A sturdy tripod should be the first investment in HDR photography. Then a Cable trigger.
Gently coaxing your Shutter Speed dial shouldn't pose much of an issue, if using a good tripod. And if you dont have a Cable trigger, just set the camera on self timer.
Self Timer is especially useful when Bracketing. The camera will trigger all 3 (or more) exposures consecutively with one press.
Luckily I have plenty of room in my bag for the AAO netbook. It also affords me the option of backing up my CF cards in the field.
It just seems so much easier than adjusting the shutter speed manually on the camera - esp when it comes to making more than the three bracketed shots canon allows for.
I guess the environment I'm shooting in at the time might be a concern but then I have to make the same considerations wrt using my camera.
If it will adjust the shutter speed you're ahead of the game.
If it will adjust the shutter speed you're ahead of the game.
Its meant to be similar to the expensive Canon one. But I doubt it - it has exposure time in seconds, which is not ideal: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=230306839664
Wow that looks real good. Like the timer option too.
I got the el cheapo canon wired remote - it does the job but lacks any of the bells and whistles.
I'm having fun with DSLR Remote pro too - I should be able to use my iphone to trigger it which, outside of HDR, will be useful.
I'm having fun with DSLR Remote pro too - I should be able to use my iphone to trigger it which, outside of HDR, will be useful.
I still havent experimented with the software properly (ok - I forgot about itThats quite coolI'm going to give it a shot.
) but here is one I took this evening.
Edit - re-uploaded it to flickr - the horizon wasnt horizontal
It was 19 images (I know - major overkill) resting on the car window. My NGE tripod was slowly self-destructing so it has been sent in for repairs.
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