New Rig....Your input would help...

Both Have:
Low Power Consumption: OCZ 2.7W Active, 1.5W Idle Corsair 2.5W
Lightweight: OCZ 77g / Corsair 80g
Native TRIM support
RAID Support
Shock Resistant up to 1500G
MTBF: 2 million hours
3-Year Warranty
 
I have both and prefer the OCZ ...

Speed Wise the 120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 has the same specs as the 120 GB Corsair Force GT

OCZ AGT3-25SAT3-120G
http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-agility-3-sata-iii-2-5-ssd.html
Max Read: up to 525MB/s
Max Write: up to 500MB/s
Random Write 4KB: 50,000 IOPS
Maximum 4K Random Write: 85,000 IOPS

OCZ VTX3-25SAT3-120G
http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-vertex-3-sata-iii-2-5-ssd.html
Max Read: up to 550MB/s
Max Write: up to 500MB/s
Random Write 4KB: 60,000 IOPS
Maximum 4K Random Write: 85,000 IOPS

Corsair CSSD-F120GBGT-BK
http://www.corsair.com/en/ssd/force...20gb-sata-3-6gbps-solid-state-hard-drive.html
Max Read: up to 555MB/s
Max Write: up to 515MB/s
Maximum 4K Random Write: 85,000 IOPS

Right,so without derailing this thread....I see there is some procedures wrt installing fresh Win 7 on SSD drive and something about TRIM.Can someone guide me as to get the best performance and speed out of the SSD.Cause installing Win 7 on SSD is gonna be a first for me...
 
Right,so without derailing this thread....I see there is some procedures wrt installing fresh Win 7 on SSD drive and something about TRIM.Can someone guide me as to get the best performance and speed out of the SSD.Cause installing Win 7 on SSD is gonna be a first for me...

1. Make sure you have the latest firmware for your SSD.
2. Make sure you have latest stable BIOS version for your MB.
2. Set the disk controller to AHCI mode in BIOS.
4. Boot from the Windows media and begin the clean install.
5. Install the latest storage driver for the storage controller used by the MB.
 
1. Make sure you have the latest firmware for your SSD.
2. Make sure you have latest stable BIOS version for your MB.
2. Set the disk controller to AHCI mode in BIOS.
4. Boot from the Windows media and begin the clean install.
5. Install the latest storage driver for the storage controller used by the MB.

So what is this about TRIM?And also on storage controller do you get different types and which one should I use?
 
I was thinking more MSI GTX 670 Power Edition.What do you guys think?Whole theme of rig is gonna be black,grey and blue then...

Didnt you read what I said...... My 670 power edition is going through an RMA at the moment, apparently local stock is a bit of a faulty batch I only used the card for a day, its a great card but colour scheme is worthless regarding the look of your gpu cooler you dont get to see any of the fancy bits of the card because its positioned downwards will post pics of my rig as i have that bluish color scheme going on but it doesnt make any difference. On another note I'd stay away from the vertex 3 and agility 3 rather go with a vertex 4 or agility 4 . the ocz 3rd generation is known to be a tad bit unreliable. Please excuse the terrible quality of the pics my blackberry cam is sad.

http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/album.php?albumid=2039&attachmentid=19393
http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/album.php?albumid=2039&attachmentid=19391
 
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Didnt you read what I said...... My 670 power edition is going through an RMA at the moment, apparently local stock is a bit of a faulty batch I only used the card for a day, its a great card but colour scheme is worthless regarding the look of your gpu cooler you dont get to see any of the fancy bits of the card because its positioned downwards will post pics of my rig as i have that bluish color scheme going on but it doesnt make any difference. On another note I'd stay away from the vertex 3 and agility 3 rather go with a vertex 4 or agility 4 . the ocz 3rd generation is known to be a tad bit unreliable. Please excuse the terrible quality of the pics my blackberry cam is sad.

http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/album.php?albumid=2039&attachmentid=19393
http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/album.php?albumid=2039&attachmentid=19391

I read what you said but im gonna give it a go on the 3 series and as for the GTX 670 im gonna go with KFA brand...
 
I read what you said but im gonna give it a go on the 3 series and as for the GTX 670 im gonna go with KFA brand...

Dude trust me.... If you want longevity from an SSD please look into the 4 series, Im sure you are looking for a build that would cause you less stress as possible.... in that case im sure u'd be better of with a 4 series, logically , OCZ had specially designed their own controller software for the 4 series if you think about that carefully.... what was the need for them to do that? Because the 3 series had major issues.
 
Can anyone comment on H70 Corsair CPU cooler and how their experience is wrt temps?

Have you decided on what processor youre going with? You have to look at a cooler in relativity to your processor, if you goin with Ivy bridge and you decide on going over 4.2ghz then look at the h80 or h100 because as you know Ivy bridge turns up the heat as soon as you increase the jiggahurts:D also you have to choose a cooler in relativity to the case you gona be getting as well. Those radiators need enuf headroom and the case needs to provide that too.
 
What avid-dreamer says is right, you need to decided what you intend to do with the CPU, if you going to leave it at stock, then an air cooling solution will do fine for you, but if you choose to overclock then you can start looking at the H series water cooling systems from Corsair.
Personally I'm using a i7 3770K @ 4.4ghz with a H100 cooling in a CM Storm Trooper case.
The was plenty space to mount the radiator - Ill try upload a pic so that you can see and decide on what suits you and your PC needs.
 
Have you decided on what processor youre going with? You have to look at a cooler in relativity to your processor, if you goin with Ivy bridge and you decide on going over 4.2ghz then look at the h80 or h100 because as you know Ivy bridge turns up the heat as soon as you increase the jiggahurts:D also you have to choose a cooler in relativity to the case you gona be getting as well. Those radiators need enuf headroom and the case needs to provide that too.

@ avid - case is gonna be coolermaster elite 430 and im gonna go with i5 3570k.

What avid-dreamer says is right, you need to decided what you intend to do with the CPU, if you going to leave it at stock, then an air cooling solution will do fine for you, but if you choose to overclock then you can start looking at the H series water cooling systems from Corsair.
Personally I'm using a i7 3770K @ 4.4ghz with a H100 cooling in a CM Storm Trooper case.
The was plenty space to mount the radiator - Ill try upload a pic so that you can see and decide on what suits you and your PC needs.

@ ampha - thanks im planning to overclock to 4ghz.
 
...
•PSU: Corsair Professional Series HX750 750W 80+ Silver Modular High Performance Power Supply
...

Please try and get the GOLD rated version. They're available now (quite recent) and have a 7 year warranty.

Not talking about the AX series but the HX series.

Edit: Here you go, this is the version you want but GOLD rated. Not sure if there is a price premium (most likely) but I think it'd be worth it.

HX750 Gold Rated
 
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Is 2x GTX660Ti's worth it wrt SLI and heat or should I just get GTX670?

I would definitely go with a GTX 660 Ti SLI instead of just a single GTX 670 (you could always add a 3rd one in if you need the extra performance), if not then preferrably a single 7950 (which can be easily overclocked and either match or exceed the performance of a 670 for around R700 less) if you take this 7950's price by Rebel Tech you could get a 7950 CF for the same price as a GTX 660 Ti SLI in the build that I mentioned to you earlier.

For a R20 000 Gaming Rig this is what I'd build :

Processor : i5 3570K - @ R2288
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H - @R1916
Graphics : MSI GTX 660 Ti SLI - 2x R3466
Memory : 8GB Corsair Vengeance (DDR3-1600MHz) - @ R597
Storage : Western Digital Caviar Green - 1TB + OCZ Vertex 4 - 128GB - R891 + R1202
Power Supply : Corsair AX750 - @ R1680
Case : Cooler Master 690 II - @ R762
CPU Cooler : Corsair H70 - @ R858
Optical Drive : LG GH24NS90 24x DVD-RW - @ R166

Monitor : LG D2342P-PN (23 inch 3D LED) - @ R2034
Keyboard : Razer Arctosa - @ R464
Mouse : Razer DeathAdder 3500 - @ R597
Headset : Corsair Vengeance 1300 - @ R535

Grand Total = R20 031


Hope this helps, if you have any questions just ask or visit the TGNN PC Builder's Guide :)

So just to recap this is the order from most preferred to least preferred options for your GPU choice.

1) 7950 Crossfire
2) GTX 660 Ti SLI
3) GTX 670 (Single)
 
I would definitely go with a GTX 660 Ti SLI instead of just a single GTX 670 (you could always add a 3rd one in if you need the extra performance), if not then preferrably a single 7950 (which can be easily overclocked and either match or exceed the performance of a 670 for around R700 less) if you take this 7950's price by Rebel Tech you could get a 7950 CF for the same price as a GTX 660 Ti SLI in the build that I mentioned to you earlier.



So just to recap this is the order from most preferred to least preferred options for your GPU choice.

1) 7950 Crossfire
2) GTX 660 Ti SLI
3) GTX 670 (Single)

How can u advise kelevra to go with 2 x gtx 660ti and then tell him he can later add a third card when the mobo u suggested doesnt even have the ability to run 3 way sli also none of the boards in a decent price range offer proper 3 way sli which would also require more power in the future if he had to go 3 way sli, also in 3 way sli ur bandwith is heavily split in most cases probly will barely match the performance of a 690 whereas two 670 in sli comes quite close to 690 . Three way sli is not so simple as slapping 3 cards in an magically hoping u end up with monster graphics quality, most current 3 way sli boards will run at 16x8x4x higher end and quite expensive boards can run at 16x8x8x keep in mind the fact that you r suggesting 660ti's doesnt help the fact that which ever way u look at it u still gona have a memory bus thats only a 192bit effective im so sorry to say this dude but do ur homework duffy and just as a parting shot..... U dont ever suggest western digital caviar green for a gaming rig, we wana play games on our gaming rigs not save the world with an eco friendly hard drive
 
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Mmmmm let me mention one more interesting thing, you see most of our currently available monitors in sa around the range of R2000-3000 work at 60 hz which means if you have really powerful graphics and you are running a single screen at 1080p with vsync off u gona be pushing a screen that can handle 60 fps to try and run at +-80fps sometimes even close to a hundred fps so why run two gtx660ti's in sli for now when one card can get u over 60 fps easily two cards are overkill for the moment, yea i kno running a game at 100 fps is supercool but that means getting a monitor that can run at 120hz which costs atleast over R4000. Fair enuf put vsync off on a 60hz monitor and be jolly but you gonna get sum horrendous vertcal tearing which is very uncomfy for gaming. Ppl can also forget about amd radeon cards they dont offer physX they dont offer adaptive vsync which is totally necessary. Well u folks can take that for now thats my 2 cents.
 
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I never noticed tearing due to vsync being off, until I got my Dell 3008WFP that runs at 2560x1600. Then again, I went from 1680x1050 straight to 2560x1600.
When I changed the colour depth to 16bit, the tearing also went away when I watched videos, but now I'm playing with vsync on at the maximum colour depth that Windows/games can offer.

I do agree with avid-dreamer that going for anything above a single 670 OC is overkill, unless you have a very high resolution monitor or multiple monitors that you're going to run in like AMD EyeFinity/Nvidia Surround.
 
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I never noticed tearing due to vsync being off, until I got my Dell 3008WFP that runs at 2560x1600. Then again, I went from 1680x1050 straight to 2560x1600.
When I changed the colour depth to 16bit, the tearing also went away when I watched videos, but now I'm playing with vsync on at the maximum colour depth that Windows/games can offer.

I do agree with avid-dreamer that going for anything above a single 670 OC is overkill, unless you have a very high resolution monitor or multiple monitors that you're going to run in like AMD EyeFinity/Nvidia Surround.

Ah Padatjie to the rescue as always:D
 
I'm sorry Duff, but I've been holding my tongue on this one as well, I don't see the sense in recommending SLI to someone who'll never see the benefits.

I would definitely go with a GTX 660 Ti SLI instead of just a single GTX 670 (you could always add a 3rd one in if you need the extra performance), if not then preferrably a single 7950 (which can be easily overclocked and either match or exceed the performance of a 670 for around R700 less) if you take this 7950's price by Rebel Tech you could get a 7950 CF for the same price as a GTX 660 Ti SLI in the build that I mentioned to you earlier.

So just to recap this is the order from most preferred to least preferred options for your GPU choice.

1) 7950 Crossfire
2) GTX 660 Ti SLI
3) GTX 670 (Single)

By my reckoning, each GTX660 Ti, boosted to max capability and almost peaking with available headroom in games would consume around 165W for each card. 165 x 3 = 495W. That's quite a figure if you're suggesting he go that route in future, considering that even with a half-utilised Core i5 quad-core he'd easily be sucking 120W from that thing. In total, he'd need a 900W PSU if he wanted to even think about overclocking everything. I'm sorry, but multi-GPU should be left to the high-end where it will be used properly with the right equipment.

And while Avid went about his argument like an ass, with the prevalence of 1080p monitors I don't see the need for two cards - hell, I'm still using my HD6870 for gaming. I mean, the most I'd ever recommend to someone for gaming on a 1080p monitor is either a GTX670 or HD7950 - anything more than that and you're better suited to 30" territory or multi-monitors or, rather unlikely, a 100Hz or 120Hz monitor in 3D.

and just as a parting shot..... U dont ever suggest western digital caviar green for a gaming rig, we wana play games on our gaming rigs not save the world with an eco friendly hard drive

Just as Duff's entitled to his opinion, you're entitled to yours, although the Caviar Green is added in as a storage drive, not a boot one. Also, one more thing I'd like to get out...

avid-dreamer said:
Ppl can also forget about amd radeon cards they dont offer physX they dont offer adaptive vsync which is totally necessary.

Screw Physx, it doesn't even enter into my thoughts when I'm recommending GPUs. Physx was a great addition during the Core 2 Duo and Core 2 Quad days because it took all the load off the CPU. But now that we're in the 1080p era, most games aren't CPU-reliant and are coded for the lowest common denominator - consoles. Havok Physx runs just fine today on most CPUs (and actually makes use of that nice quad-core you might be running) and Nvidia Physx just isn't bandied about as much anymore. Sure it works but its a bonus to running a Nvidia card, not a feature anyone should tout anymore.

Adaptive V-Sync is a good idea, but remember we've been running V-Sync on our monitors for years and haven't had much in the way of problems. I've yet to see it properly demonstrated to be working in ANY review I've read on Nvidia's Kepler-based products that use it, so forgive me for being a bit skeptical about it actually being a feature worth bandying about.
 
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I'd like to point out the headphones in particular. I'm deaf in the right and left ears, with the right completely dead and the left struggling in certain pitches as well as in overall volume. Those earphones sound like music making love to my ears.

Have the same pair couldn't agree more. :)

As to the physics argument, have you seen the difference with physics in borderlands 2?

and thought's on this case http://www.cmstorm.com/en/products/chassis/stryker/ heavy price tag though.
 
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