Opel Corsa B fuel pump

[Jam Sandwich]

Has anyone had the fun of replacing the fuel pump? Is it a bugger of a job? Local mechanic says 3 or 4 hours?
I have the Corsa Bakkie B...a 2002 model...

Ive replaced the relay and the car ran OK for a few days but now I can hear a click with the relay and nothing from the pump...

Anyone have any ideas or should I brace myself for a new fuel pump and 4 hours odd of labour?

 

[soulie]

Has anyone had the fun of replacing the fuel pump? Is it a bugger of a job? Local mechanic says 3 or 4 hours?
I have the Corsa Bakkie B...a 2002 model...

Ive replaced the relay and the car ran OK for a few days but now I can hear a click with the relay and nothing from the pump...

Anyone have any ideas or should I brace myself for a new fuel pump and 4 hours odd

its probably in the tank .you may need a special tool to loosen it .probably cost 4 k with a pump .fuel line fittings may also be difficult .if you get stuck halfway you will need to tow it .

 

[soulie]

just out of interest does it have a filter .if it does change it first.if you can get to it that is .backpressure may be causing the pump to stall .not common but can happen

 

[Jam Sandwich]

just out of interest does it have a filter .if it does change it first.if you can get to it that is .backpressure may be causing the pump to stall .not common but can happen

I've spoke to Midas...A 3 Bar Bosch unit is R700 odd...thats just the pump and not housing/fittings...
I'll see what Goldwagen prices are tomorrow...

This is the third relay Ive replaced in 10 years odd...usually last about 3 years?
Is that normal? All my other cars were normal carbs and fuel pumps...not high pressure fuel injection.

Mate says the relays are failing because the pump is taking too much power on start up because its failing?

(Car is well over 350,000km, 2002 model, so if its the original pump its done its time!)

 

[TheChamp]

I've spoke to Midas...A 3 Bar Bosch unit is R700 odd...thats just the pump and not housing/fittings...
I'll see what Goldwagen prices are tomorrow...

This is the third relay Ive replaced in 10 years odd...usually last about 3 years?
Is that normal? All my other cars were normal carbs and fuel pumps...not high pressure fuel injection.

Mate says the relays are failing because the pump is taking too much power on start up because its failing?

(Car is well over 350,000km, 2002 model, so if its the original pump its done its time!)

I have the hatch, no idea if it's different to the bakkie but I got my pump from Midas for around R200, it's a universal Bosch.

But first before rushing to replace the pump you can learn from my mistakes. I had the clicking relay and assumed the pump was faulty, so bough a new one and started the chore of replacing it, plenty of videos on YouTube, you don't have to replace the whole housing, just replace the pump, you can easily remove it from the housing.

I'm my case I found out it wasn't the pump, the damn relay was clicking away even though it was faulty, I consoled myself by saying it wasn't a waste to replace the pump because the new one was so quiet compared to the old one.

I got a new relay and replaced the old one, voila, car started first time, ran good for a week then started jerking, now I had a dilemma of not knowing whether I did something wrong when I replaced the pump, fortunately for me I had a some faith that I did everything right at the pump so I drove the car like that while thinking what the problem could be, I finally decided that the relay could be faulty, decided to go to to Goldwagen this time instead of Midas, fitted the new one, and yes it turned out the new relay from Midas was indeed faulty and my work on the pump was spot on, car has been running fine since then.

 

[TheChamp]

I later learnt that I was supposed to bridge the relay to isolate the faulty part, that's what you are supposed to do first, bridge the relay, if the pump does work then you have a faulty relay, if not then the new relay could be dodgy. There is a small chance that the signal from the ECU could be a problem but highly unlikely.

I had a thread on the relay pins to bridge, will see if I can find it, otherwise you can Google, I just know that it's the supply pin from ignition and the pin to the pump, my memory is fuzzy but iirc it should be pin 30 and pin 87 or 87b, not too sure, you will have to confirm.

 

[soulie]

most relays can handle 30 amps plus on startup they dont burn to easily but can happen .goldwagen is probably the best for aftermarket pumps .if you feel confident enough tackle it .but take it apart firstvbefore buying the pump/assembly

 

[Jam Sandwich]

I have the hatch, no idea if it's different to the bakkie but I got my pump from Midas for around R200, it's a universal Bosch.

But first before rushing to replace the pump you can learn from my mistakes. I had the clicking relay and assumed the pump was faulty, so bough a new one and started the chore of replacing it, plenty of videos on YouTube, you don't have to replace the whole housing, just replace the pump, you can easily remove it from the housing.

I'm my case I found out it wasn't the pump, the damn relay was clicking away even though it was faulty, I consoled myself by saying it wasn't a waste to replace the pump because the new one was so quiet compared to the old one.

I got a new relay and replaced the old one, voila, car started first time, ran good for a week then started jerking, now I had a dilemma of not knowing whether I did something wrong when I replaced the pump, fortunately for me I had a some faith that I did everything right at the pump so I drove the car like that while thinking what the problem could be, I finally decided that the relay could be faulty, decided to go to to Goldwagen this time instead of Midas, fitted the new one, and yes it turned out the new relay from Midas was indeed faulty and my work on the pump was spot on, car has been running fine since then.

Thanks, my mate should be back soon with another relay from Midas (R90 vs R110 at GW)...

The one from GW is new and I fitted that on Friday...Same model/brand as the old one...
Drove around the garden and it was fine...So I thought that was it...
Nipped out to get some things this morning and back to the problem...

Unfortunately it looks like you need to drop the tank with the bakkie..
.bit of a drag as I had money last week so I filled up the tank..typical...

 

[soulie]

post pictures im sure it will help another person

 

[Jam Sandwich]

most relays can handle 30 amps plus on startup they dont burn to easily but can happen .goldwagen is probably the best for aftermarket pumps .if you feel confident enough tackle it .but take it apart firstvbefore buying the pump/assembly

Thanks, I did a fuel pump on my old 4x4 Sani..(that was in the tank...also fitted a secondary pump just in case)
Blew all the hoses off and messed up the carb a bit...

In my ignorance I just accepted what the spares shop gave...
a pump rated waaaaaay too high for my needs!

 

[soulie]

Thanks, my mate should be back soon with another relay from Midas (R90 vs R110 at GW)...

The one from GW is new and I fitted that on Friday...Same model/brand as the old one...
Drove around the garden and it was fine...So I thought that was it...
Nipped out to get some things this morning and back to the problem...

Unfortunately it looks like you need to drop the tank with the bakkie..
.bit of a drag as I had money last week so I filled up the tank..typical...

it may be easier to lift the bak usually only 6 bolts or so and the wiring harness

 

[TheChamp]

Thanks, my mate should be back soon with another relay from Midas (R90 vs R110 at GW)...

The one from GW is new and I fitted that on Friday...Same model/brand as the old one...
Drove around the garden and it was fine...So I thought that was it...
Nipped out to get some things this morning and back to the problem...

Unfortunately it looks like you need to drop the tank with the bakkie..
.bit of a drag as I had money last week so I filled up the tank..typical...

Oh yes, no back seat.

 

[soulie]

also check the wiring especially the neg on the relay on opel it may be the brown wire .you may have a bad earth .otherwise bridge the relay there should be a contact diagram on the relay casing showing the relay contact numbers

 

[TheChamp]

post pictures im sure it will help another person

Every time I do some repairs I have good intentions of posting pictures but by the time I am in the middle of it I am so annoyed and exasperated that the most important thing is to get the job done, the Corsa is really not a friendly car to work on, I have never encountered an easy repair on that car.

 

[TheChamp]

I found the thread, post#43,

Corsa b/lite Struggling to start in the morning first start of the day.

Problem with the Corsa is that everything gets hot along with the engine because everything is so close together, the exhaust manifold is still at the front and the heat is not properly dissipated, the block is still iron so when things get hot the get hot and don't cool down soon. That is true...

mybroadband.co.za

 

[soulie]

Every time I do some repairs I have good intentions of posting pictures but by the time I am in the middle of it I am so annoyed and exasperated that the most important thing is to get the job done, the Corsa is really not a friendly car to work on, I have never encountered an easy repair on that car.

i was an auto electrician ..... thats why i only replace complete units with levers toggles brackets etc now into elec/hydraulics/pneumatics .it may cost more initially to do the job with all the extras .but nobody wants to open a corsa afterwards again.or any car fir that matter .i still do the odd auto elect job but will only use genuine parts .have learned the hard way with generics .

 

[soulie]

Thanks, I did a fuel pump on my old 4x4 Sani..(that was in the tank...also fitted a secondary pump just in case)
Blew all the hoses off and messed up the carb a bit...

In my ignorance I just accepted what the spares shop gave...
a pump rated waaaaaay too high for my needs!

also dont forget to try your local Bosch distributor for parts .you may be surprised at what they can offer

 

[soulie]

Every time I do some repairs I have good intentions of posting pictures but by the time I am in the middle of it I am so annoyed and exasperated that the most important thing is to get the job done, the Corsa is really not a friendly car to work on, I have never encountered an easy repair on that car.

just did a brake and clutch job on a newish Fiat .......every bolt is a different size .nasty cars the new ones .not like a ford cortina anymore on the Fiat if you dont have an impact gun .you wont get the gearbox off .the bolts sieze solid

 

[Dimpie (JIGSAW)]

Thanks, my mate should be back soon with another relay from Midas (R90 vs R110 at GW)...

The one from GW is new and I fitted that on Friday...Same model/brand as the old one...
Drove around the garden and it was fine...So I thought that was it...
Nipped out to get some things this morning and back to the problem...

Unfortunately it looks like you need to drop the tank with the bakkie..
.bit of a drag as I had money last week so I filled up the tank..typical...

Correct ... plenty of videos on YT. I did mine on Corsa C a few months ago ... Need to get a$$ in the air and drop tank (4 bolts 2 straps) ... a special tool to release the fuel pipes .. not 100% needed but makes for an easier job ... can be done in ±2 hours (would be nice to have a lift to raise vehicle). I replaced the whole unit ... best price was at "Goeie Hoop Onderdele" in Brackenfell. A full tank is gonna be a bit of a mess.

 

[Jam Sandwich]

I found the thread, post#43,

Corsa b/lite Struggling to start in the morning first start of the day.

Problem with the Corsa is that everything gets hot along with the engine because everything is so close together, the exhaust manifold is still at the front and the heat is not properly dissipated, the block is still iron so when things get hot the get hot and don't cool down soon. That is true...

mybroadband.co.za

Thanks, Ive also bought some matches for worst case scenario...