Overheating - Fan location related?

107deg at altitude the water is gonna boil, no matter what. I think anything over 105degrees will start to boil. Additives will increase the boiling point but not by much.

Stronger fan and shroud is what I would recommend.
After that, check if the thermostat is opening and at what temps. (You can put it in cold water with a thermometer and add hot water as see when it opens, if its too high then get one thats better for out climate - lower temp)

Oil Pump check - run car up to temps and feel both inlet and outlet pipes, if one is hot and the other is cold its a dying pump

I build carbon fibre parts, so if you want a custom shroud, let me know.

Thanks
 
107deg at altitude the water is gonna boil, no matter what. I think anything over 105degrees will start to boil. Additives will increase the boiling point but not by much.

Stronger fan and shroud is what I would recommend.
After that, check if the thermostat is opening and at what temps. (You can put it in cold water with a thermometer and add hot water as see when it opens, if its too high then get one thats better for out climate - lower temp)

Oil Pump check - run car up to temps and feel both inlet and outlet pipes, if one is hot and the other is cold its a dying pump

I build carbon fibre parts, so if you want a custom shroud, let me know.

Thanks

Sounds right :D
tumblr_la480xLOTx1qdj6o7o1_500.jpg
 
another thumbsuck idea - Why don't you try taking the fan off & giving it run that way,the blades might be deflecting air too much having it on the front?.

Edit:
Maybe the +/-15% differance your looking for

Compared to engine-driven fans, electric fans offer the benefits of reducing engine drag and allow the fan to typically be installed in several locations. Electric fans installed in front of the radiator are called pusher fans, and behind the radiator are puller fans. Pusher fans typically impede airflow by blocking portions of the radiator's core, as opposed to a puller fan, which pulls air through the radiator and is generally about 15 percent more efficient. So if space allows, it is usually better to install the fan on the engine side of the radiator to operate as a puller, where it can draw more airflow.
www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0504_cooling_system_info/#ixzz2aY8w8iFe
 
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Thanks Tun@, I will have a look this weekend, I need to take the engine out anyway. Will see if there is space to mount it behind the radiator and also as per ACTperformance, maybe fit a different fan (flex-lite).
 
From those photos, I do not think that there is any shortage of ram air. Why do you even need the fan if you only use it on the track? Have you tried it without?

I share the sentiments of the librarian. Your car gets more than enough cold air from driving along. I think your root problem is getting rid of the hot air. What about a rear-facing bonnet vent to extract the hot air out of the top of the engine bay?
 
From those photos, I do not think that there is any shortage of ram air. Why do you even need the fan if you only use it on the track? Have you tried it without?

I share the sentiments of the librarian. Your car gets more than enough cold air from driving along. I think your root problem is getting rid of the hot air. What about a rear-facing bonnet vent to extract the hot air out of the top of the engine bay?

Remember the problem is when slipstreaming.
I'd go bigger rad and bigger fan too.
 
I have a surge tank, that is where the water blows out when it gets too hot (pressurised system).

I did 2 hours at Phakisa, no problems. This past weekend, I was in a very close dice and after 3 laps at Zwartkops (2.4km per lap) it started spewing water at around 107C.

Turn the fan on at a lower temp.
When are you racing again?
 
Would the fan help at all when following in someones turbulent air?

We are racing the 17th of August at Kyalami.

I'd leave the fan on full time. Yes it will definitely help in turbulent air.
 
Would the fan help at all when following in someones turbulent air?

We are racing the 17th of August at Kyalami.

It's like sitting still in traffic. the fan is the only thing that moves air at that time.

Does the car overheat at all when you leave it idling?
If it does, your cooling system does not have enough cooling capacity.
 
Update: I replaced the single core radiator with a dual core radiator. The old one was 16mm thick, compared to the 26mm of the new one.

Tested it yesterday, air temperature was around 23C. I intentionally did about 5 laps in a close slipstream and the temps did not go higher than 84C, then dropping to 79-81 when driving in clear air.

The true test will be at Kyalami next week, but I think the single core was just a little bit too thin.
 
What about the thermostat, it could be buggered and will not open.

Maybe try bypass the thermostat....
 
What about the thermostat, it could be buggered and will not open.

Maybe try bypass the thermostat....

Thermostat is modified to allow more water through initially as we usually let the car idle up to temp. Thermostat opens at about 82C and I can confirm that it is opening, you can feel the heat on the pipe going into the thermostat housing.
 
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Here is the video footage of the race, just the first three laps are interesting. Car overheated on lap 3.
[video=youtube;_KVcfx9LGO4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHPt0zM0PjA[/video]
 
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