Router from US, which power adaptor for SA

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Shellyb1

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Hi.

Need some guidance on power for the Router I bought.

I bought the Nighthawk R7900 from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R7900-100NAS-Nighthawk-Router-Compatible/dp/B074P7R7R7)

The power adaptor is for the US (at 110v) and I need a converter\AC Adaptor for SA that operates at 220v.

This is the router detail:

IMG_9353.jpg

Would this adaptor work? Its 19v, 3.16, the same as the original but it operates on 220v. Not so sure about the 60w.

https://www.takealot.com/samsung-19...top-charger-60w-ac-power-adapter/PLID43802864

Can anyone tell me if this takealot adaptor will work or recommend one locally that I can use?

TIA
 
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bdt

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19V and < 4A is laptop PSU territory, which should mean you could get one rated for that load locally. Else Duxbury are (the?) local/main Netgear agents, ask them for a brick.

(relevant) review pix:

netgearnighthawkx6_5-100361773-large.png

netgearnighthawkx6_4-100361770-large.png
 
B

bdt

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Shellyb1 said:
Would this adaptor work? Its 19v, 3.16, the same as the original but it operates on 220v. Not so sure about the 60w.

https://www.takealot.com/samsung-19...top-charger-60w-ac-power-adapter/PLID43802864

Can anyone tell me if this takealot adaptor will work or recommend one locally that I can use?

TIA
Click to expand...
The (ha) 'fun' part with laptop bricks is having the the barrel match the socket, which can get hella exciting and may well end up as something that you can't eyeball, sometimes it's down to less than a millimetre worth of incompatible. And, from personal experience, I'm not bok on Samsung playing nice, on their screens at least NOTHING common(ly available) fits so you're SOL if something happens to their original part. Upshot - check in with Duxbury.
 
Geoff.D

Geoff.D

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@OP,

Why did you not make sure you got a suitable power supply at the same time as when you bought the router?

I have very little sympathy for people like you, who scan the Internet, buy the first thing they see fail to think of all things that really matter, like compatibility with local standards.

Your best bet is the local agents as already suggested.
 
Jola

Jola

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I have bought a number of routers from the USA, all of the power bricks could work off 110v and 220v. Never had to replace a power brick.

Maybe your PSU will handle 220v, check it out first :

1) Check the spec on the label.

2) Plug it in (without connecting the router) and check the output voltage. If it goes up in smoke that doesn't matter, because then you wouldn't have been able to use it anyway.

I have had a few USA PSU's that only said 110v, but that did work with 220v.

I have only had one that didn't work, and that went up in smoke. This was for a cheap headset, not for a router.

BTW, an answered questions for your router on amazon says : "It is 110-240v 50/60hz, and has the standard 3-pin plug in the US. "

Answer provided by Netgear, doesn't look as if you have anything to worry about.
 
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crackersa

crackersa

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That’s a bad ass router. Installed one at my moms house.

But r7900 in SA? Wow
 
S

Shellyb1

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Thank you for those with constructive responses... Appreciated.

Here is the screenshot of the adapter. It certainly smoked after connecting to the power - so not mislabelled:

IMG_9383.JPG
 
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bdt

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Shellyb1 said:
Thank you for those with constructive responses... Appreciated.

Here is the screenshot of the adapter. It certainly smoked after connecting to the power - so not mislabelled:

View attachment 513757
Click to expand...
Well having fed twice the input voltage into that brick I'd be well surprised to find it survived. But you do at least have a barrel guaranteed to fit your router, more all you actually need is just about any laptop brick that can push the required amps. And, you know, some soldering and stuff. Or use the connector as a ref to get a new brick without that messy cutting and joining work.
 
Jola

Jola

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Hmm, pity about that.

One of those third-party notebook power supplies should do the trick, you get ones that are 19v 4Amp, and have a selection of tips, hopefully one should fit.

Make sure that you get the polarity right.
 
S

sajunky

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So bad. I was going to argue with some others suggesting live (or dead) testing, as I do not do it.

You can trust labels regarding input voltage range. It is not an operational, but safety parameter. They cannot lie on this due to liability issues.
 
S

Shellyb1

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Thanks. Will give Duxbery a call tomorrow and see if they have anything. Otherwise I will try my luck with the genetic laptop charger.
 
Jola

Jola

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sajunky said:
So bad. I was going to argue with some others suggesting live (or dead) testing, as I do not do it.

You can trust labels regarding input voltage range. It is not an operational, but safety parameter. They cannot lie on this due to liability issues.
Click to expand...

I have a few adapters that said 110v, but worked fine on 220v, so what you say is not generally true.

The Roku 3 PSU's were like that. I have 3 of them, the power supplies say 120v, but they work on 220v.

I have had that with other products as well.
 
Last edited:
Gordon_R

Gordon_R

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Shellyb1 said:
Here is the screenshot of the adapter. It certainly smoked after connecting to the power - so not mislabelled:

ATTACH 513757
Click to expand...

Hindsight:The PSU doesn't say CE, only UL, so its most likely designed specifically for North American voltages, not European. That won't help you, but is worth knowing.

As others have said, designing for both is easier in the cellphone range (5V,2A=10W) than the power of a laptop.
 
Hamish McPanji

Hamish McPanji

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Jola said:
I have a few adapters that said 110v, but worked fine on 220v, so what you say is not generally true.

The Roku 3 PSU's were like that. I have 3 of them, the power supplies say 120v, but they work on 220v.

I have had that with other products as well.
Click to expand...
Same here
 
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