Samsung G2 320GB drive ... help!

TheRift

TheRift

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My wife finally seems to have killed her Samsung G2 320GB portable drive after just a year (or even less).

Some time last year she managed to just about break the USB plug off in the socket so I suspect the problem is a bad connection on the USB connector. Power is getting through, but probably USB data signals are messed up. Drive spins up, but not detected in OS and after a short while I hear the heads park. Worked a couple of hours ago in her laptop, but after unplugging it it seems to have given up the ghost.

Does anyone have a old G2 320GB they're willing to part with?

Is Esquire open on a Saturday morning? I see they have a Freecom XXS 320GB, but I don't see pricing on site. It's the same dodgey Samsung drive (HM320JX) which is a native USB drive (no SATA).
 
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No, that can't be done. It's a stupid Samsung HM320JX which has native USB plug, no SATA. The other option is getting the Freecom XXS 320GB, then praying that the board revision and firmware revision is the same.

I've sent a note to Intratech here in CPT. Maybe they can help and aren't "expensive". It's just that she's stored important sales e-mail and documents on this and the last backup was a month ago.
 
Thanks!

Yeah, I grabbed the first one I could find nearby.

At least SouthBit have pricing ... which I'm going to leave up to the wife to decide 'cos we just don't have spare cash like that around, but we'll see.

I was thinking the same thing on the soldering front. I have very fine point Magnum soldering equipment, but the odd thing is that the power is fine, the signal is not. That could be either faulty joint USB TX/RX pins/joints or an IC has failed from improper unplug.

These things are also stupid in that you have to physically cut this box open to get the drive out, so buying a new one and attempting a swap destroys 2 in 1 go. :P

Ag, ja, she must decide if she wants to attempt warranty-voiding recovery or just send this back for a new one and put her tax, sales, etc, information out there.
 
TheRift said:
Thanks!

Yeah, I grabbed the first one I could find nearby.

At least SouthBit have pricing ... which I'm going to leave up to the wife to decide 'cos we just don't have spare cash like that around, but we'll see.

I was thinking the same thing on the soldering front. I have very fine point Magnum soldering equipment, but the odd thing is that the power is fine, the signal is not. That could be either faulty joint USB TX/RX pins/joints or an IC has failed from improper unplug.

These things are also stupid in that you have to physically cut this box open to get the drive out, so buying a new one and attempting a swap destroys 2 in 1 go. :P

Ag, ja, she must decide if she wants to attempt warranty-voiding recovery or just send this back for a new one and put her tax, sales, etc, information out there.
Click to expand...

If i'm not mistaken you can pick up the sata connections on the pcb for some of these drives if you just want to get the data off and erase the drive etc.
 
TheRift said:
Thanks!

Yeah, I grabbed the first one I could find nearby.

At least SouthBit have pricing ... which I'm going to leave up to the wife to decide 'cos we just don't have spare cash like that around, but we'll see.

I was thinking the same thing on the soldering front. I have very fine point Magnum soldering equipment, but the odd thing is that the power is fine, the signal is not. That could be either faulty joint USB TX/RX pins/joints or an IC has failed from improper unplug.

These things are also stupid in that you have to physically cut this box open to get the drive out, so buying a new one and attempting a swap destroys 2 in 1 go. :P

Ag, ja, she must decide if she wants to attempt warranty-voiding recovery or just send this back for a new one and put her tax, sales, etc, information out there.
Click to expand...

All the best.

I don't think you will find cheaper pricing, so she must bear in mind it's a good deal.
 
Yeah, the prices look quite good to what I've seen in the past. Will get hold of them once she decides.

Pity might need to send it back under warranty and get the same as a replacement.
 
Depending of the damage (abuse) the warranty might not cover it.
 
No physical damage. Powers up. Just no signal. Warranty will cover it. Just need to decide on whether to just send back for warranty or whether to get data off which means cutting it open.
 
TheRift said:
No physical damage. Powers up. Just no signal. Warranty will cover it. Just need to decide on whether to just send back for warranty or whether to get data off which means cutting it open.
Click to expand...

R850 for a new one vs +-R2k for recovery (excl. HDD).
 
Yes, I know. R0 spent using warranty, R2K for recovery and R850 to get a new one to harvest the PCB ... but then you pray you get the same firmware version and hope the head calibration, etc, is similar. So that R850 could just wind up being a waste.

She's first going to see if she's got the updated data around somewhere (laptop, e-mail, etc) before deciding. Money is extremely tight these days, but we'll see.

I'm also a little concerned about sending this back for warranty anyway seeing as she's stored some sensitive data on it.
 
These Samsung Hard drives seem to be very problematic, mine broke by the USB connector too, it was a G2 Portable 640GB, i got a new one under warranty for free.
 
I definitely prefer a more traditional setup with the USB thing being separate.

I was thinking of checking Esquire for the Freecom XXS 320GB drive. Maybe by some chance the PCBs are the same revision.
 
These recent portable drives where the PCBs is USB-only are a nightmare, whoever's idea it was to design them this way in order to save a few pennies should be shot.

The USB connection is often a problem on these. If it's spinning up though it could be the connection, or it could be something else more sinister. If you end up wanting it recovered then it will be in your best interest to open it up first and see if the problem does lie with the USB connector, if that's the issue then you'll save yourself some money. A PCB swap from an identical drive has VERY little chance of working, of course IF the PCB is the problem. There are many things to consider.

Hopefully for you it's just a suspect USB connection and you can DIY it, otherwise I can help you out if it's beyond DIY.
 
South_Bit said:
These recent portable drives where the PCBs is USB-only are a nightmare, whoever's idea it was to design them this way in order to save a few pennies should be shot.
Click to expand...

All in the name of making smaller packaging.

South_Bit said:
The USB connection is often a problem on these. If it's spinning up though it could be the connection, or it could be something else more sinister. If you end up wanting it recovered then it will be in your best interest to open it up first and see if the problem does lie with the USB connector, if that's the issue then you'll save yourself some money. A PCB swap from an identical drive has VERY little chance of working, of course IF the PCB is the problem. There are many things to consider.

Hopefully for you it's just a suspect USB connection and you can DIY it, otherwise I can help you out if it's beyond DIY.
Click to expand...

Thanks! :) I just got the drive back from her now and tried it again. Can definitely get it to stop completely by fiddling around with the plug. I think I'll fire up the Magnum and see if I can either put some more solder on the connections or just hook up a USB cable directly. Probably surface mounted as well and all bets are those pads are going to lift.

Anything beyond that will see me taking you up on that offer.

I'm not going to bother sending this in for replacement. You just wind up with the same crap afterwards. Best to find some cash now and get a "cheap" 2.5" drive and decent housing.
 
Have you tried to push on the USB plug gently? Maybe you can find an orientation where it works if one of the pins of the mini USB socket has separated from the PCB. This would avoid cutting it open and voiding the guarantee. Maybe you can then retrieve what you need before doing a warranty replacement?
 
Have tried, but no success so far. Will try again, but that does make me think the problem runs deeper.
 
So one last try while I wait for someone to upload tonight's Top Gear episode.

I took a blurry but closer look at this plug 'cos at a glance it seemed line some pins were missing. Looks like the ground pin and +ve data pin got pushed back, probably damaged with the first smash of the plug and over time just got worse. Finally managed to see the remains of the D+ pin pointing up in the air right at the back of the socket. So when the plug goes in the pins don't connect as it pushes the pin away from the recessed pin in the cable. The +ve pin not an issue as it is longer in the cable's plug. Got a small screwdriver and pushed the D+ down and gave it one last try.

Whaddyaknow... drive is working. Backing up as fast as I can now. :D

Going to do a proper erase and send it back.

The USB socket on this drive looks cheap compared to my own portable drive.

Well, someone's gonna be happy when they wake up in the morning.
 
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