Smart Circuit Breaker WiFi Issues (ESP)

TheRoDent

TheRoDent

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I recently acquired a number of these:

www.robofactory.co.za

63A 1P Smart Circuit Breaker with monitoring - eWelink

Connect this high powered Smart Switch to your high current appliances and control it from anywhere. This device is perfect to control your geyser (up to 63A). You can set this device to automatically switch off your geyser during peak times and switch it back on during off peak times.
www.robofactory.co.za www.robofactory.co.za

from RoboFactory.

1657992267557.png

They seem to be nice enough units (aside from the fact that they're only rated for 40A continuous load), and I'm starting to use them to manage things like geysers, underfloor heating, heatpumps, etc. They work fine with the Ewelink app, as well as the HomeAssistant and the SonoffLAN integration, and the main feature I appreciate is the load measurement.

The one pain I have with them is that the WiFi seems to be super finicky. Especially when two of them are installed next to each other. It's almost like they interfere with each other. Switch one on, the others' WiFi dies, and vice versa. Sometimes difficult to pair as well.

I've taken to installing them with a bit of physical seperation in the DB, which seems to help a bit, but other than me practically installing an AP inside the DB (of which there are several) it still seems quite finicky. The DB's are all plastic, non-metal so 2.4Ghz "should" be able to make it inside easily, but obviously there is also other stuff at play such as ElectroMagnetic interference from devices attached to all the circuits.

I have plenty if indoor/outdoor sonoff devices as well, and they tend to have very little issues, given my WiFi coverage, but none of them are installed inside a DB board.

I have a pretty stout Ubiquiti WiFi setup covering practically ever corner of my house, aside from obviously weird places like DB board locations.

At this point, I'm almost resigned to installing some Mikrotik Powerline Access Points inside the DB's (after ripping them out of their enclosures, and maybe 3D printing a DIN bracket for them) and sprinkling them amongst the DB's, which will probably do good for my general IOT infrastructure too.
1657992853752.png

So, my question to the folks here is: Do you have similar WiFi-y issues with other smart breakers such the ABB/CBI breakers? Is there a decent Zigbee breaker you'd recommend ? I haven't really found many DIN small form factor switches with similar features like these online...

Or do you just never have this issue at all ?
 
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Update:
I haven't opened one of these myself yet to inspect the antenna setup, but that does look suspiciously like a u.FL connector.

templates.blakadder.com

SMTONOFF 63A Power Monitoring DIN Relay (SMT002) Configuration for Tasmota

Configure your smart din relay to work with Tasmota open source firmware.
templates.blakadder.com templates.blakadder.com

1657994274442.png

Flashing seems to be a pain in the ass, not sure it will improve the WiFi.
 
Peon said:
My dumbass 2c. Signal issues.

Maybe? https://www.communica.co.za/products/cmu-wifi-ext-antenna-2-4ghz-15db and a pigtail connector? That antenna should sit/fit inside the DB box?
Click to expand...
Sure, even something smaller will probably improve the signal.
Even something as basic as this will probably have a huge improvement, but still going to require opening the switch itself, which I'd like to avoid.

1657998802176.png

But probably still easier to literall install a basic IP in/or closer to the DB.
 
No major issues with the CBI Astute but it’s also a much larger unit which probably helps.

My only question is how can you not be happy with 40A? What do you plan to push through there that needs more than that?

I mean that’s almost 10kW.
 
I have a big mix of 63a -> 16a smart breakers,only 1 that had the odd spotty connection was in my Main DB (old steely cover too) with the Wifi AP a few meters away in the ceiling

You tried playing around with the channels?
 
SauRoNZA said:
No major issues with the CBI Astute but it’s also a much larger unit which probably helps.

My only question is how can you not be happy with 40A? What do you plan to push through there that needs more than that?

I mean that’s almost 10kW.
Click to expand...
No issue with the rating, it's just sneaky calling it 63a when it's not really. But at least the info is clear
 
Those are u.fl connectors. These iot devices usually have a printed inverted f antenna, which is OK, but not great.
If you want to connect an antenna to the connector, just check if there is a 0R resistor to switched between the printed antenna and the u.fl.

Also, you will probably have issues with these close-by one another. Ideally you want to be in the far field (2D^2 / lambda), D is the dimension of the antenna, lambda the wavelength.
 
AntennaMan said:
Those are u.fl connectors. These iot devices usually have a printed inverted f antenna, which is OK, but not great.
If you want to connect an antenna to the connector, just check if there is a 0R resistor to switched between the printed antenna and the u.fl.

Also, you will probably have issues with these close-by one another. Ideally you want to be in the far field (2D^2 / lambda), D is the dimension of the antenna, lambda the wavelength.
Click to expand...
Name checks out
 
We have 2 of these next to each other on our DB; both tasmotized. They are about 2m away from the AP but I haven't seen any blocking/collision issues. That said, I can't be 100% sure it's because they were flashed.
 
I have 2 of these units right next to each other, no issues with a Asus Mesh node about 1.5m to 2m away and I don't have any issues. Not flashed.
 
Thestealth said:
We have 2 of these next to each other on our DB; both tasmotized. They are about 2m away from the AP but I haven't seen any blocking/collision issues. That said, I can't be 100% sure it's because they were flashed.
Click to expand...
Did you have to drill out the 4 brass-coloured rivets to get the case open? Wondering if there's a less destructive way in!
 
zarf said:
Did you have to drill out the 4 brass-coloured rivets to get the case open? Wondering if there's a less destructive way in!
Click to expand...
Sorry to answer my own question, but it appears that the rivets are top-grade Chinesium, so a drill is overkill. A small screwdriver will suffice to bend one side of the rivet towards the centre and then push it through to the other side - feels like a sufficiently snug fit that the bent rivet will do its job again when I close it back up.
 
zarf said:
Did you have to drill out the 4 brass-coloured rivets to get the case open? Wondering if there's a less destructive way in!
Click to expand...
I wedged a knife with a thin (but strong) blade into the slit where the 2 parts come together. Then I twisted it to start prying it apart. If you alternate (top and bottom) a little at a time the brass rivets get forced back through the hole and you don't need to drill. After the breaker is reassembled, you can flare the brass rivets again for a nice snug fit. Take note of the cable routing of the neutral wire inside the breaker. If you don't put it back the same way, the breaker will struggle to close properly even if the rivets are aligned.
 
Thestealth said:
I wedged a knife with a thin (but strong) blade into the slit where the 2 parts come together. Then I twisted it to start prying it apart. If you alternate (top and bottom) a little at a time the brass rivets get forced back through the hole and you don't need to drill. After the breaker is reassembled, you can flare the brass rivets again for a nice snug fit. Take note of the cable routing of the neutral wire inside the breaker. If you don't put it back the same way, the breaker will struggle to close properly even if the rivets are aligned.
Click to expand...
I take it this was to Tasmotize it?

Any benefit, other than not being dependent on Chinese overlords?
 
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