Smart light switch help needed

hjst45

hjst45

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Good day everyone,

I am hoping someone can help me with the wiring for a smart switch I recently purchased.

The current switch has 2 wires coming into L (switch 1 and switch 3) and then bridged across the 3 switches. The COM on each switch has a separate wire coming into it.

I have attached a diagram as well for the current switch wiring.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
 

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I am no electrician, but your current switch wiring appears to the neutral (please double check) pic is not clear. And Chinglish instructions, seems to require both live and neutral.
 
Not sure why the wire is black behind the light switch. You don't have a neutral wire so you need to run one first before it will work.
 
krieg said:
Three common wires to L1, L2, L3. Live to L. This seems the wrong way around. You need to install the capacitor by one of the lights.
Click to expand...

Only if they are LED’s and problematic ones at that.

OP I would not go any further on this adventure without getting a multimeter and figuring out which wire is the Live (has a 220v reading) and there would be only one.

Connect that to L and then pretty much take the other wire that wasn’t bridged from the other switches and came in directly and connect those to L1, L2 and L3.

The fact your Live comes in one side and goes out another tells me this is likely feeding another switch so you’ll probably want to keep track of the “other” non-live wire in case you need to bridge it again.

You could play the guessing game to figure out which of the two sides feeding in is the actual Live without the meter, but rather safe than sorry.
 
So as mentioned , yes you need to install a capacitor across any one of the output bulbs, bridging THEIR live/neutral.

For wiring , as @SauRoNZA says you need to figure out which is which.

Without knowing the actual details on the back plate ( normally there are markings ) , based on the switch bridging I would assume this:

1680853451345.png

if that is a 3 gang, then the left most socket looks like a single wire in, whereas the other three have bridges in and out. Why, I dunno, normally the switch should have a running backplane, no need to bridge the individual contacts itself unless they are running multiple light circuits off each switch. Easy test if no multimeter, kill main power and unscrew the first wire, cap it safely. The restore power and check if switches work. If ANY work, then you killed a outgoing, if NONE, then you have identified the correct incoming live.

But check the back plate , there should be embossed markings.
 
Also, you do realize that this is wireless NOT wifi right?

So you need a wireless/wifi bridge to communicate or a wireless hub. I have similar switches installed with the no neutral and AFAIK those only work on wireless due to the lack of a neutral needed to power a wifi module.

Similar local available version, your link is a Zigbee type.

EACHEN Wifi Smart Light Switch (NO NEUTRAL REQUIRED) - GeeWiz

EACHEN Wifi Smart Light Switch (NO NEUTRAL REQUIRED) for sale online at the Best Prices! Door to Door and Overnight Delivery
www.geewiz.co.za www.geewiz.co.za
 
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SauRoNZA said:
Only if they are LED’s and problematic ones at that.

OP I would not go any further on this adventure without getting a multimeter and figuring out which wire is the Live (has a 220v reading) and there would be only one.

Connect that to L and then pretty much take the other wire that wasn’t bridged from the other switches and came in directly and connect those to L1, L2 and L3.

The fact your Live comes in one side and goes out another tells me this is likely feeding another switch so you’ll probably want to keep track of the “other” non-live wire in case you need to bridge it again.

You could play the guessing game to figure out which of the two sides feeding in is the actual Live without the meter, but rather safe than sorry.
Click to expand...
Homer2.gif
homer.gif
Homer3.gif
 
SauRoNZA said:
His link is wrong, the picture in the manual shows it’s WiFi (Tuya) based.
Click to expand...
I have'nt seen that offered before on no-neutral units but the tuya do seem to indicate that. Anyone installed in a no neutral enviro and on direct wifi?
 
Kosmik said:
I have'nt seen that offered before on no-neutral units but the tuya do seem to indicate that. Anyone installed in a no neutral enviro and on direct wifi?
Click to expand...

Yup I have installed them, which is why I was saying they exist.
 
No neutral required. This is overcome by installing a capacitor across live and neutral at the light bulb. Capacitor(s) should have been supplied with your switch.
 
PeterRV said:
No neutral required. This is overcome by installing a capacitor across live and neutral at the light bulb. Capacitor(s) should have been supplied with your switch.
Click to expand...

Capacitor is there to stop LED lights from blinking.

You don’t need it to make the switch itself work and it can run without.

That being said who doesn’t use LEDs and has smart switches.

And if you are going to install that you may as well just run the neutral wire it’s not like it’s any more or less effort.
 
Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the help!

I managed to get it working. The L on the left side was the incoming, the L on right side was powering another switch below for an outdoor light.

I connected both these to the L on new switch, and each COM to L1,L2 and L3.

I did indeed have a flickering issue, which was easily solved by connecting the provided capacitor across the L1 light.

Everything working perfectly, thank you!
 
I have a eachen WiFi smart switch (no neutral required) which I am trying to install.

The switch doesn't have a neutral wire but my light fixture has a neutral wire (there is a sticker). Can I install the capacitor at the light fixture and where?
 

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I've run into a similar situation today but haven't installed it as yet. Would it be necessary for my ceiling fan? It has a built in LED Strip and I'm not sure how if even add the capacitor to it
 
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