smoke after idling

just got the car, the car used to do very short trips, we drove it around 100km's yesterday and still did it afterwards after idling

you can literally stop car, rev no smoke, leave to idle a bit, rev smoke.

I would say give it some time. If you still get smoke after 3-4 long trips then check it out because there's a leak.
 
Just do another test. Go down a long hill on a trailing throttle, i.e. almost let the car coast down the hill without you accelerating. If it smokes when you acceleration after that, it's usually a valve problem and not that serious. If it smokes constantly under acceleration, then you could have a larger problem.
 
Just do another test. Go down a long hill on a trailing throttle, i.e. almost let the car coast down the hill without you accelerating. If it smokes when you acceleration after that, it's usually a valve problem and not that serious. If it smokes constantly under acceleration, then you could have a larger problem.
no smoke under constant acceleration that i can see.

will try that test
 
On this topic...

My Bakkie's ABS breaks, when it was a cold evening they are extremely hard in the morning and i have hardly any breaks. I need to push it hard a couple of times and then it's fine. Do you have any idea what that could be?

Without knowing specifics of your bakkie, model, brake type It's not so easy, but the most common cause would be a dirty master cylinder. Such that cold makes the cylinder contract and the piston seizes inside it. That would require quite a bit of pressure to overcome, and that's pressure that is then not going to the brake pads, ergo less stopping power.

A good flush-out of the brake system should fix this.

It is unlikely to be the cause though, if it is a fairly new vehicle as this type of dirt takes long to accumulate. Or, water in the brake system could also cause this... it would also require a proper flush-out of the brakes to fix it.
 
Without knowing specifics of your bakkie, model, brake type It's not so easy, but the most common cause would be a dirty master cylinder. Such that cold makes the cylinder contract and the piston seizes inside it. That would require quite a bit of pressure to overcome, and that's pressure that is then not going to the brake pads, ergo less stopping power.

A good flush-out of the brake system should fix this.

It is unlikely to be the cause though, if it is a fairly new vehicle as this type of dirt takes long to accumulate. Or, water in the brake system could also cause this... it would also require a proper flush-out of the brakes to fix it.

Was thinking water got inside the brake fluid somehow.

It's a 2003 3000i V6 Clubcab.

Nothing major since I know it's there and it not a problem unless it was a very cold evening. So I haven't bothered fixing it :o
 
Ok so my buddy wasn't there but one of the other guys hooked it up to the comp and no errors etc, he thinks valve stem seals so going to have to get them changed, what you guys think price wise to have it done and any suggestions on the east rand? Boksburg?

I could do it but I am a bit of a noob so perhaps skip.
 
Ok so my buddy wasn't there but one of the other guys hooked it up to the comp and no errors etc, he thinks valve stem seals so going to have to get them changed, what you guys think price wise to have it done and any suggestions on the east rand? Boksburg?

I could do it but I am a bit of a noob so perhaps skip.

I have no idea on price, but the job's not difficult for any competent mechanic.
 
I have no idea on price, but the job's not difficult for any competent mechanic.

I first thought about risking it myself, my dad knows a fair bit about engines, but I think safer to get a pro.

There are 2 ways to do it, without taking off the head or with taking off the head, wonder which way they will do it
 
Ok so my buddy wasn't there but one of the other guys hooked it up to the comp and no errors etc, he thinks valve stem seals so going to have to get them changed, what you guys think price wise to have it done and any suggestions on the east rand? Boksburg?

I could do it but I am a bit of a noob so perhaps skip.

bump!
 
so we got another opinion today, this mechanic reckons it is the rings and says he should overhaul the engine, new rings and big ends.
 
Trouble is, you won't know if he's correct until you strip the motor:(

ffs :(

he doesn't really mind it and seems to want to leave it, i however want him to get it sorted.

What are the implications of leaving it?
 
ffs :(

he doesn't really mind it and seems to want to leave it, i however want him to get it sorted.

What are the implications of leaving it?

Personally, from everything that you have described, I would go with valve guides seals - it really didn't sound as drastic as this guy now says.

If your dad's happy with it, just keep an eye on oil consumption and add some Wynns - in fact I would go the Wynns route first. They have plenty of products to reduce oil consumption.

If it is terminal, however, it then becomes a matter of time before the engine destroys itself and then it will cost big bucks to fix it.
 
Personally, from everything that you have described, I would go with valve guides seals - it really didn't sound as drastic as this guy now says.

If your dad's happy with it, just keep an eye on oil consumption and add some Wynns - in fact I would go the Wynns route first. They have plenty of products to reduce oil consumption.

If it is terminal, however, it then becomes a matter of time before the engine destroys itself and then it will cost big bucks to fix it.

which wynns products should i look at?

if i open the tappet cover only and look at the valve seals will i be able to tell if it is that? - edit: nevermind me being an idjit, you wont see that there will you?

the one reason the guy said it is rings is he checked inside the exhaust, there is almost like this gunk coating the inside of the exhaust, obviously where you can normally see it had been wiped out when we bought it.
 
One does a compression test on the cylinders . Then one puts a small amount of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to seal the rings. ( first remove the compression tester) Then put tester back in and If compression reading goes up then rings are shot (and replace bearings) If it does not and it is blow spec then Valve stem seals it is.

NO I am not a Motor Mechanic. I worked on my own car when I was an apprentice 40 years ago and subscribed to magazines like TechniCar, which was bought out by Car magazine who shrunk it to 2 pages.............. SODS
 
Ok so after work another friend who used to work in the motor industry came round, he agrees with my dads first thoughts that it is over fuelling and say that the build up in the exhaust also points to it along with the smell. He isn't ruling out there isn't an oil issue but says we should first check fueling.

So tomorrow of to do a co test he says and we take it from there.

My dad seems to think the mechanic he saw today is trying to take a chance.

I also wondered how they can just say it is this or that without a compression test.

Does anyone have an idea what a co test would cost?

And any idea what a compression test would cost?
 
One does a compression test on the cylinders . Then one puts a small amount of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to seal the rings. ( first remove the compression tester) Then put tester back in and If compression reading goes up then rings are shot (and replace bearings) If it does not and it is blow spec then Valve stem seals it is.

NO I am not a Motor Mechanic. I worked on my own car when I was an apprentice 40 years ago and subscribed to magazines like TechniCar, which was bought out by Car magazine who shrunk it to 2 pages.............. SODS

Yep I think must definitely get a compression test.
 
Costs, Doubt anyone would know due to it being such a scarce operation. Cars are normally taken in for a service ........ BTW Don't you or your family have a "local" garage who looks after your vehicles? One could then just ask them :-)
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X