Sonoff T3US1C replacing existing switch help

kennedym

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
93
Hi guys

This might have been asked before but i honestly am a bit lost. I have the Sonoff TX T3US1C. In my light switch i have a blue, red and a bare wire(earth).
It is currently connected to a simple 1 gang switch which takes a neutral and a live.
That works fine.
I am not sure though how to connect it to the Sonoff switch.
See attached image. It looks like i might be missing something or is it possible to get going with this setup. Image is just for showing how far i got, haven't tested that yet because i am not sure what to connect the line out to.

I suspect i have a single live wire setup. Using the non smart old switch, I tested and red always has power. Blue comes alive when switched on.
My guess is blue is not neutral and that i need to get a neutral wire installed?
 

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Jehosefat

Expert Member
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
1,588
Hi guys

This might have been asked before but i honestly am a bit lost. I have the Sonoff TX T3US1C. In my light switch i have a blue, red and a bare wire(earth).
It is currently connected to a simple 1 gang switch which takes a neutral and a live.
That works fine.
I am not sure though how to connect it to the Sonoff switch.
See attached image. It looks like i might be missing something or is it possible to get going with this setup. Image is just for showing how far i got, haven't tested that yet because i am not sure what to connect the line out to.

I suspect i have a single live wire setup. Using the non smart old switch, I tested and red always has power. Blue comes alive when switched on.
My guess is blue is not neutral and that i need to get a neutral wire installed?
Correct. Usually on a standard switch you will only have a live in and then the outbound wire will be the live in to the load (in your case, the light) and not a neutral line. The neutral line generally bypasses the switch completely and just goes directly to the load.

To wire up the smart switch you would connect the existing wires to live (red) and line out (blue) and you would then need to run an additional neutral wire down to power the smart switch. Ideally this should be on the same neutral circuit as the load but this should not be strictly necessary.
 
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