Stage 1 loadshedding from 9am Monday

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Whats the best price and setup for basics, such as PC, TV and a modem?

What is the recommended setup to get cause there are so many at the moment and don't want to mess up my PC, etc. Inverter and battery wise.
 
This is the one I've gotten, but it seems there's a month waiting period now.
thank you.

I have a silly question.

Will the output match the amount of power required by the router and cpe.

Is it possible that the cpe and router will break due to power outputs not matching perfectly?
 
thank you.

I have a silly question.

Will the output match the amount of power required by the router and cpe.

Is it possible that the cpe and router will break due to power outputs not matching perfectly?
What do mean match perfectly?
The crucial issue the voltage. That should match or lie within the range the device is designed for. The power supply current capacity must be more than what the device requires. The device will draw only what it needs.
 
And those white speaker cables feed power to the gate control?
i was thinking the same, but then again he did say 12v at 1amp so im thinking it kinda should be ok.
Hey @Gordon_R please trim the white cable, you do not want excess wire for no purpose, it is just going to cause unnecessary DC loss down the line
 
i was thinking the same, but then again he did say 12v at 1amp so im thinking it kinda should be ok.
Hey @Gordon_R please trim the white cable, you do not want excess wire for no purpose, it is just going to cause unnecessary DC loss down the line

It was installed by a professional with 25 years in the industry, its not a DIY job. There are also twin cables for both positve and negative terminals, to reduce resistance losses. Look at the battery and charger, not the wiring.

P.S. Should be in a different thread about 12V backups, since it has nothing to do with Stage 2 load shedding.
 
It is about volt drop and enough backup capacity on the DC side. So the wrong type of cable even doubled up with no crimped connectors is somewhat defeating the purpose of the added AH capacity.
1 year of experience 25 times over.
 
Every mechanism has pros and cons. Your blanket statement is an example of the 'advice' that passes as information on this forum.

so what are the pro's of a maglock vs a stricker lock? the cons are pretty obvious, they are easily defeated and require power to remain closed.

go do yourself a favour and grab the corner of the gate furthest from the maglock (like the top opening or bottom opening corner) and pull it open.
 
so what are the pro's of a maglock vs a stricker lock? the cons are pretty obvious, they are easily defeated and require power to remain closed.

go do yourself a favour and grab the corner of the gate furthest from the maglock (like the top opening or bottom opening corner) and pull it open.

I was giving you the benefit of the doubt, but your latest post indicates that you really have no idea what you are talking about.

A properly fitted maglock comes with a pivoting plate that defeats the tactic you describe. Please go back under the rock you came out from.
 
I was giving you the benefit of the doubt, but your latest post indicates that you really have no idea what you are talking about.

A properly fitted maglock comes with a pivoting plate that defeats the tactic you describe. Please go back under the rock you came out from.

Dunno why you feel the need to be condescending, it just shows your weak character.

The pivot plate has a limit, and if you pull past it the gate will open, it isn't rocket science. Anyway again enjoy that :)
 
I was giving you the benefit of the doubt, but your latest post indicates that you really have no idea what you are talking about.

A properly fitted maglock comes with a pivoting plate that defeats the tactic you describe. Please go back under the rock you came out from.
Yes the same statement applies. Any component incorrectly installed does not deliver on its purpose.
PS: That charger/battery combination is very good, even better than the typical voltage regulation found in your average gate motor and many access control systems.
 
Dunno why you feel the need to be condescending, it just shows your weak character.

The pivot plate has a limit, and if you pull past it the gate will open, it isn't rocket science. Anyway again enjoy that :)

I'm being condescending because you offered unsolicited and incorrect advice.

If the gate can flex more than the pivot plate, then a maglock is the least of your problems.

Electric striker plates have moving parts, which require lubrication and maintenance.

Every system has pros and cons. Oh wait, I said that already. Somehow you can't understand that. Pot, kettle, black...
 
PS: That charger/battery combination is very good, even better than the typical voltage regulation found in your average gate motor and many access control systems.

We don't currently have any backup lighting during load shedding (although the other side of Rosmead Ave is in a different Zone, so there is always some street lighting).

This battery would be useful if we wanted to add a few LED floodlights. One block across the road has a whole bank of floodlights (probably a separate battery controller or Li-ion).
 
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