Summer PC cooling guide

Conradl

Expert Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2008
Messages
2,629
Reaction score
1
Location
Joburg
There have been a few questions raised about computer cooling issues lately, and with summer here there will no doubt be more. So I decided to brush up on my general cooling knowledge and share my findings.

How does heating work

To understand how to cool your PC, you need to understand how it heats up. Some things you need to know:

1. It is safe to say that every watt of power consumed by your PC is turned into heat. A PC drawing 500 watts is thus equivalent to a 500 watt heater, or 5 100 watt bulbs.

2. 1 watt = 1 joule per second. 1 joule is roughly the amount of energy required to increase one cubic centimetre of air by one degree Celsius.

3. Air has a heat capacity of 1 joule per gram per degree Celsius, and a density of around 1.2 kilograms per cubic meter.

4. A computer case of 395 x 190 x 427mm, assuming its empty, has a volume of .033 cubic metres; or about 40 grams of air. An average room has a volume of 40 cubic metres, or around 48 000 grams of air.

5. 1 degree increase in ambient temperature results in a one degree component temperature increase (more or less). So if your room is hotter in summer, when compared to winter, then your CPU temperature will be hotter too, at a 1:1 relationship.

Taking the above into consideration, a 500 watt computer at peak load, will emit 500 joules of energy per second. Using the heat capacity we know that it would take 40 joules to raise the temperature in the case by one degree (ignoring heat loss). It would take 48 000 joules to raise the air temperature in the room by one degree (again ignoring heat loss).

This translates into your room heating at one degree every 96 seconds and an increase by one degree every second n your case! This of course is absurd because heat is being lost to the air outside etc., but it does indicate an important rule:
The temperature in your case can increase very quickly and your PC can cause your room to heat up; which will cause a direct increase in your component temperature.

How does cooling work

All cooling works by transferring heat from one medium, such as your CPU, to another medium such as air or water. From the above we can see that the rate at which the temperature increases is directly proportional to the amount of mass that is heated. A fan increases the airflow, thus increasing the amount of mass to heat, resulting in lower component temperatures.

Great, but you still have not told us how to cool stuff down!

From the above it is clear that efficient cooling requires several factors:

1. Your cooling solution is only as good as the air coming into your system, since component heat is linked to ambient heat. Hot air in = hot components. Heat is never lost - only transferred, e.g. from your CPU to the air in your case, and from inside your case to your room, back into your case.

2. Airflow is important. One well position fan could work better than 10 badly placed fan (also remember that fans use power and generate heat). Try to get as much cool into the front of your PC and blow as much hot air possible out the back - while ensuring a constant stream of air is passed through the PC (which will also improve cooling on your passive components such as hard drives). Servers, and datacenters are build on this simple concept.

3. Compounding heat. In a room with no aircon it is safe to assume that as your PC gets hotter, it will heat up the room, and as the room gets hotter, so your PC temps will increase. Position your computer so that warm is not recycled, and cold air is always brought in through front.

4. Assume a holistic approach to cooling, including spot and passive cooling. Start at the source of the heat and work out. First, look at your spot cooling (heatsinks), make sure they are securely attached and clean. Then examine the fans attached to the heatsinks - do they spin freely? Look inside your case for blockages that could disrupt airflow.

Look at your PC's immediate surroundings, is it close to a wall, or in a little box that traps heat? Free up the space around your PC - remember hot air in = hot PC. Lastly examine your room - does it have sufficient airflow? Does the sun beat down on your PC?

Understand why your system is heating up BEFORE spending money on expensive heatsinks and fans.

5. Understand component thresholds and what it means to be hot, and decide whether additional cooling is required. For example an HDD at 35 degree is not hot and should not be cooled.

Its quite a bit to get your head around, and I will clarify if anything is unclear :D
 
Last edited:
lol i got a desktop fan running at max next to my open case
damn still 40c on my gfx card
goes to 34 in cold weather
 
No mention of fans on the side of the case. Many cases these days have side fans, but are they as good as front fans?
 
No mention of fans on the side of the case. Many cases these days have side fans, but are they as good as front fans?

IMO they can cause a bit of turbulence which sometimes impairs airflow in the case compared to a simple push-pull setup from the front to the back of the case. I think if your GFX card runs really hot then it may help somewhat, but sometimes it's quite difficult to decide the best place to put your fans.
 
Apparently one fan in front of the case blowing air inwards and another one at the top of your case blowing outwards is the best.

Cuz hot air rises, blowing cooler air in from the front and then blowing all of the heat directly above your CPU and GPU is a good way to cool down your pc.

One big fan blowing in from the side I would say is a waste.
 
Nice post Conrad. Overclocking in South Africa is always something best left for winter time as well.

On the side fan, I agree with it fan being a waste. It basically started with a couple of users building the side fans into their cases and getting a 1 or 2 degree drop in temps in some cases. Chassis manufacturers picked up on this and soon we all had have it. I dont think it ever did wonders for ambient temps inside the case.
 
Well, turbulence does lend to improved cooling, but I think the issue occurs with air being forced down onto the components. I need to get my crossflow fan working again. That's another R350 to spend. I feel my radiator with air from the side, but using the crossflow fan to flow air over my motherboard made a hell of a difference. I'm getting no response from a crossflow supplier I was dealing with, so might hit Frontosa up this week for a new Coolermaster crossflow fan. Anyone know who I can contact locally for crossflow fans? R350 is horrible when you consider what it is.
 
It's "a HDD" not an :p

It is definitely an "H". "H" = "aitch" - therefore "An aitch"; since it is a vowel both phonetically and in name....

lol i got a desktop fan running at max next to my open case
damn still 40c on my gfx card
goes to 34 in cold weather

A classic case of trying to fix that which is not broken. The idea is to prevent the device from frying, not trying to cool it as low as possible.

No mention of fans on the side of the case. Many cases these days have side fans, but are they as good as front fans?

It depends. If the fan is blowing IN; then it would assist with spot cooling - albeit a large spot. If the fan is blowing out, then it may be doing more bad than good. The thermal dynamics at play are very complex and I think it is better to keep it simple. Looking at a worse case scenario, having too many fans could potentially starve your primary spot cooling devices (e.g. CPU heatsink) of the air required to provide a sufficient airflow thus increasing component temperature.

Lastly, all enterprise class devices that I have ever seen, ranging from $1 million+ SANs to high end core switches to servers, all have air flow directed from front to back. While this may be due the nature of the rack design, it is nonetheless a suitable cooling method for VERY hot, expensive, and mission critical devices, and requires little redesign.

Nice post Conrad. Overclocking in South Africa is always something best left for winter time as well.

On the side fan, I agree with it fan being a waste. It basically started with a couple of users building the side fans into their cases and getting a 1 or 2 degree drop in temps in some cases. Chassis manufacturers picked up on this and soon we all had have it. I dont think it ever did wonders for ambient temps inside the case.

Thanks :D Winter is good for overclocking since a 1degree decrease in ambient temperature will result in a 1 degree decrease in component temperature. I agree with you that side fans are mostly useless....
 
It depends. If the fan is blowing IN; then it would assist with spot cooling - albeit a large spot. If the fan is blowing out, then it may be doing more bad than good. The thermal dynamics at play are very complex and I think it is better to keep it simple. Looking at a worse case scenario, having too many fans could potentially starve your primary spot cooling devices (e.g. CPU heatsink) of the air required to provide a sufficient airflow thus increasing component temperature.

I might cough up some cash this week for new fans. 14cm ones for the side. I was after Scythe Gentle Typhoon, but not in the mood for ordering from the USA. Just going for Coolermaster 14cm, they are rated for quieter operation than the new Thermaltake fluid bearing item and flow 60CFM @ 12V so at lower voltage will be silent (I hope) and give enough cool air for the radiator to use instead of relying just on warm air.

This should provide enough when turned down to give the radiator fresh air to use. Then maybe not wait any longer for companies to reply to me and just buy the crossflow as it made a heck of difference since it also allows cooling the back of the motherboard, which does make a difference.

Unfortunately just using front intake fans on my chassis means getting air from hot hard drives.
 
Thats one thing I like about Solid State Drives as well. I have zero temp increase in the front.

Here is a little something I am going to try out this week: http://www.sybaritic.co.za/store/product_info.php?cPath=50_176&products_id=17778
The fan intake faces you Gfx cards and pushes the hot air out the backside of your case. So, my case stays side fan'less :)

I used something similar to this years ago. It spewed out an insane amount of
warm air at the back. It had its own vents at the back, not sure if this one works the same.

If it does, make sure you have enough clearance at the back of the pc for circulation.
If it is close to a wall, place something between the wall and the pc to protect the wall. Cardboard or paper attached to wall will work as long as it does not damage the paint when removed.
The wall will become extremely dirty after awhile if there is no protection, unless you are a good distance from the wall.:)
 
I suffer from 9800 SLI cards being too close together, temp would rise to 90-95 degrees under load, but bought a pretty decent normal fan for 300 bucks, and now its sorted, never goes over 65.
 
I honestly don't think there's anything wrong with side fans, especially for preventing stagnant air and providing a positive pressure in the chassis.
 
I honestly don't think there's anything wrong with side fans, especially for preventing stagnant air and providing a positive pressure in the chassis.

Where it becomes problematic is that it is virtually impossible to measure the air movement within a computer. If all your fans simply go from back to front then it is somewhat easier to visualise the airflow.

Imagine the airflow of the side fan entering the PC, and then mushrooming and spreading out 90 degrees from the direction it entered in all directions. Some of the airflow would flow in the same direction as the rear fan - and some would flow directly into the front fan. Your front fan would thus be redundant (or partially redundant), and you would still only require two fans, a side and back fan.

Exactly what happens at the point where the current meets is unclear, but it could potentially result in warm air recirculating, and thus causing an increase in component temperature.

My crude diagram below (seen from the top of the PC) :D

Edit: The picture is buggered :)

Back
Fan
^^^^^^
Side ^^^^^^
Fan ^^^^^^
>>>>> ^^^^^^
>>>>> ^^^^^^
>>>>>
>>>>> \/\/\/\/\/\/
>>>>> \/\/\/\/\/
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
Front
Fan
 
Your description holds if you are thinking of running side fans at a heck of a force, which is not what I'm after. Run them slow and add some cool air to the chassis and not at a speed and force that is supposed to blast air down onto the motherboard at a heck of a force.
 
I suffer from 9800 SLI cards being too close together, temp would rise to 90-95 degrees under load, but bought a pretty decent normal fan for 300 bucks, and now its sorted, never goes over 65.

Exactly my issue at the moment. The two cards hit about 90 degrees if I dont take of the side cover. Thats why I am going for that 140mm extractor I linked above. :)
 
Damn... this cross flow fan is annoying.

Picked up cross flow fan today along with 3x 14cm fans for the side panel to play with.

Put in cross flow fan then put 2x 14cm on the leading edge of the side panel. These Coolermaster fans are quiet, but they lack pressure that's for sure.

Temps are well better. From 33C normally down to 26-27C in a 23C room. CPU temp reacts quite fast to any activity.

Turn the cross flow fan all the way up and I get maybe a 1C reduction in board temps. Turn the side fans up and things get better.

CM Stacker 830 is worse for cooling than the old CM Stacker. :P

Interesting to see the positive pressure though. Side panel can take 4 fans, but I left to the 2 rear ones off and use some tissue paper to judge intake. At the radiator, surprise surprise, I can see it pulling air. On the lower edge of the side panel where the one fan is missing I can see air being pushed out. Wonder if I should force it back in with the 3rd 14cm fan.

Need to space the radiator from its fan though. Just need some longer screws. Just going to use a empty fan shell for the spacer.

I have to wrap this damn crossflow fan in some foam or something just to shut it up.
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X