Surge protection devices

atomcrusher

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Not quite sure what section to post this, but with all the Eskom load shedding I need advice on buying and installing surge protection for when the power is restored.

Currently I have my 1 x refrigerator, and 1 x chest deep freeze protected using Ellies Fridge Safe devices on the fridge and on the freezer. All these devices do is delay the re-start up of the fridge & freezer, and hopefully minimise the risk of high voltage surges when Eishkom turns the power back on

Now I want to also protect my DSTV decoder, the connected TVs (2 of them), as well as my Sony Home theater system.

My two x PCs run of APC Back-UPS, so they are (hopefully) adequately protected.

I had a look at Ellies surge protected multi-plugs as well as Clearline equivalent products.

I am hoping to run the 1 x TV, plus the DSTV decoder, plus the Sony sound system, off a multi-plug adaptor, which has build-in surge protection.

The second TV, in the bedroom, I thought about using just a surge-protected plug top such as this one ... http://www.ellies.co.za/electrical/Surge-Safe-Plug/FBWP

Any advice or better alternatives to my plans detailed above?

EDIT ... we do not have a lightening risk where we live in the WC
 
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Go for the circuit breaker installed directly on the DB. Would work out cheaper.

My current DB has the following switches (from Left to Right):

* Green-coloured double main switch (actually 2 x switches next to each other)
* Stove switch (which also switches the electric eye-level oven ... (I replaced the electric cooker hob with a LPG gas hob a few years back)
* Lights 1
* Lights 2
* Pool pump
*Geyser 1
*Geyser 2 (I have 2 x geysers)

The bolded suggestion above makes sense, but can one get a surge protection Mains switch that would protect all house circuits? Or do all individual DB switches need to be replaced with switches with built-in surge protection
 
My current DB has the following switches (from Left to Right):

* Green-coloured double main switch (actually 2 x switches next to each other)
* Stove switch (which also switches the electric eye-level oven ... (I replaced the electric cooker hob with a LPG gas hob a few years back)
* Lights 1
* Lights 2
* Pool pump
*Geyser 1
*Geyser 2 (I have 2 x geysers)

The bolded suggestion above makes sense, but can one get a surge protection Mains switch that would protect all house circuits? Or do all individual DB switches need to be replaced with switches with built-in surge protection


I only had one installed. The way I understand it is that it is installed after the mains switch and before all the other switches for plugs and lights. So one switch for all.
 
It protects all circuits in the DB... Comes after your DB's earth leakage, but in parallel with all the other circuits (surge protection isn't installed in series)

To be *properly* protected, you need a Class 1 and Class 2 protector (but this gets rather big in size), so most only install a Class 1 protector.

The only down side of this, when the surge protector pops due to a surge, you are left without electricity. The DB installed units are cartridges installed in a casing, and the casing is then installed in the DB. Just make sure you have a spare cartridge incase you get a surge at 8PM at night when all the shops are closed. They're not that expensive.

EDIT: Also, if you don't get lightning strikes, a Class 1 surge protector is basically pointless. Rather install a Class II unit (a bit more expensive, but much better protection).
 
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The bolded suggestion above makes sense, but can one get a surge protection Mains switch that would protect all house circuits? Or do all individual DB switches need to be replaced with switches with built-in surge protection
Unfortunately you are addressing problems that do not exist. With solutions that are not possible. For example, power restoration never creates an excessively high voltage - except when myths are created without experience. Power restoration is hard on motorized appliances due to low and slowly increasing voltage. Low voltage startups are hard on motorized appliances. Therefore better appliances already contain a startup delay circuit.

Meanwhile, low voltage on startup is ideal for electronic appliances.

Anything that might stop a surge means protection already inside every appliance makes that surge irrelevant. Your concern is a completely different type of surge that will blow through anything that might stop it - including millimeter gaps in a switch.

Furthermore, anything that disconnects to protect from a surge is bogus. Surges are done in microseconds. Switches (ie what might be inside s UPS) takes milliseconds or longer to respond. IOW 300 consecutive surges might pass through a circuit breaker or fuse before it even thinks about blowing.

If that APC UPS provides protection, then one has posted manufacturer specification numbers that define it. Destructive surges can be hundreds of thousands of joules. How many joules does that APC claim to absorb? Hundreds? Yes it is surge protection. The naive use subjective reasoning to be scammed. The informed always need numbers. What does that APC's hundreds of joules do on significant surge? Disconnects its near zero protector parts as fast as possible to avert a fire. And leaves that surge connected to the computer.

No problem. More numbers. Surges that are hundreds of joules are converted into low voltage, rock stable, and well regulated electricity to power its semiconductors. Anything that UPS might do is already done better inside any computer.

Now, let's discuss something that is completely different. A surge that can overwhelm protection in computers, refrigerator, clocks, air conditioner, RCD, TVs, and dishwasher. Pool pump takes extra consideration. Any facility that cannot have damage from another and destructive type of surge upgrades what must absorb hundreds of thousands of joules. Locates protector low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') to that earth ground. And increases distance between appliances and the protector as much as possible to further increase protection.

These above concepts have been proven even 100 years ago. Are mostly unknown by a majority only educated by hearsay and advertising.

One final point. Adjacent protectors without properly earthing a 'whole house' protector can even compromise protection inside appliances. In rare cases, cause fires. But then anyone can learn from the manufacturer specification numbers. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? What happens in any protector or UPS that can only absorb hundreds of joules? Be concerned for any recommendation that does not also include these relevant numbers. An overwhelming majority ignore numbers to only believe subjective myths from hearsay and advertising.
 
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