The Audi Thread

Nice one PP, will feel lekker after all that, particularly the carbon clean. Keen to see what your buildup was like after 105,000kms.

Those performance Discs and Pads, Audi OEM or alternatives?
 
randomgamer said:
Your pro-activity is inspiring PP.
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:)

TehStranger said:
Nice one PP, will feel lekker after all that, particularly the carbon clean. Keen to see what your buildup was like after 105,000kms.

Those performance Discs and Pads, Audi OEM or alternatives?
Click to expand...

Very keen to see pics and feel the difference.

The Powerbrakes aren't available till September, and my front discs are shot. I decided to go with Meyle Platinum discs from Goldwagen, R950 each / R1,900 total, vs R3,500 OEM or R3,750 Powerbrake. The Audi OEMs are said to be ATE brand, and I've been told that the Meyles are better.

http://www.ate-brakes.com/www/ate_d...riction-parts/productinfo_brake-discs_en.html.
http://www.meyle.com/en/pd.html

My control arms are also Meyle, their HD line which is redesigned and improved on OEM. I've saved R4,000 on them alone opposed to buying them from a fitment centre and having them fitted there.

The Powerbrakes are slotted, so would have been a nice upgrade. The Meyles are very popular and long lasting, and they also look stock standard. I'm not a hard braker and am unlikely to go on the track, so I figured they would be fine. It's mostly in the pads, in any case.

Front pads I've bought Ferodo DS Performance which are track/street pads. Febi Bilsteins for the rear.
 
Did you give C-Teq a call regarding the Powerbrake disks? I was busy organizing through them bu then realized my disks were actually still fine, just got new pads. Their price was just under powerbrakes and offered further discount if fitted with them.

When it is time to do disks I will go that route.

Also, who are you doing your CC with?
 
M3mPh1z said:
Did you give C-Teq a call regarding the Powerbrake disks? I was busy organizing through them bu then realized my disks were actually still fine, just got new pads. Their price was just under powerbrakes and offered further discount if fitted with them.

When it is time to do disks I will go that route.

Also, who are you doing your CC with?
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Getting everything done with them. 2.5 hour wash and interior clean and vacuum in the drizzle yesterday, and she's ready for them.

Cling wrap ready for the steering wheel, gear knob and handbrake.

No stock of the discs in SA, only arriving in September.
 
You are rather pedantic, but I know how annoying it is keeping alcantara clean, I was actually watching an alcantara cleaning video a few minutes ago.
 
M3mPh1z said:
You are rather pedantic, but I know how annoying it is keeping alcantara clean, I was actually watching an alcantara cleaning video a few minutes ago.
Click to expand...

Hehe, that I am. Link? When I first cleaned mine after the previous owner had had his way, all the grime literally blackened/browned my cloth. My hands had never felt and smelled so disgusting, than after my 7 hour drive down from PE. Put me off for life. Used alcohol to clean.
 
Sjoe, so I had a nice chat with Armand at C-Teq today. He's suggested that as a maintenance/preventative measure, I de-cat...

I have two options. De-cat and down pipe, or get the existing cat hollowed out and refitted - this to keep the stock look.

The reason for the de-cat is that they become clogged, and the engine cannot breath as well. Sometimes keeping a cat over +-100,000km can even lead to big failures...

Stage 1 software then gets done, more because there's a 50/50 chance of the car throwing warning lights after de-cat. The software is obviously tuned to local conditions and fuel, so it performs better and is more efficient.

This will take me to over 190kW...

Decisions decisions.

Always wanted to keep my car stock to maintain its value. But if I sell to another enthusiast, they would want these 'mods', and would understand that they're actually good for the car...

Anyone have any thoughts?
 
PostmanPot said:
:)

Very keen to see pics and feel the difference.

The Powerbrakes aren't available till September, and my front discs are shot. I decided to go with Meyle Platinum discs from Goldwagen, R950 each / R1,900 total, vs R3,500 OEM or R3,750 Powerbrake. The Audi OEMs are said to be ATE brand, and I've been told that the Meyles are better.

http://www.ate-brakes.com/www/ate_d...riction-parts/productinfo_brake-discs_en.html.
http://www.meyle.com/en/pd.html

My control arms are also Meyle, their HD line which is redesigned and improved on OEM. I've saved R4,000 on them alone opposed to buying them from a fitment centre and having them fitted there.

The Powerbrakes are slotted, so would have been a nice upgrade. The Meyles are very popular and long lasting, and they also look stock standard. I'm not a hard braker and am unlikely to go on the track, so I figured they would be fine. It's mostly in the pads, in any case.

Front pads I've bought Ferodo DS Performance which are track/street pads. Febi Bilsteins for the rear.
Click to expand...

Nice, let us know how the initial brake run in period is (especially how squeaky they are relative to oem).

PostmanPot said:
Sjoe, so I had a nice chat with Armand at C-Teq today. He's suggested that as a maintenance/preventative measure, I de-cat...

I have two options. De-cat and down pipe, or get the existing cat hollowed out and refitted - this to keep the stock look.

The reason for the de-cat is that they become clogged, and the engine cannot breath as well. Sometimes keeping a cat over +-100,000km can even lead to big failures...

Stage 1 software then gets done, more because there's a 50/50 chance of the car throwing warning lights after de-cat. The software is obviously tuned to local conditions and fuel, so it performs better and is more efficient.

This will take me to over 190kW...

Decisions decisions.

Always wanted to keep my car stock to maintain its value. But if I sell to another enthusiast, they would want these 'mods', and would understand that they're actually good for the car...

Anyone have any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I'd investigate more to see if the cat clogging can be as bad as all that. I don't think I'd mod unless I was 100% sure keeping the stock configuration was bad for my car.

Same thing with my S2000, I could do the same "minor" performance mods, but then it wouldn't be a "Showroom condition" example, it would be just another modded S2000.

I'm not against mods at all (in fact I hope to own 2 x S2000s one day, a mint example and a heavily modified track toy), but I'm a firm believer in extremes. Either keep it clean as a whistle (perhaps with a touch of OEM+ cosmetic mods that don't influence performance), or go balls to the walls and mod it extensively.

I suppose a new OEM cat is going to cost more than an arm and a leg?
 
TehStranger said:
I suppose a new OEM cat is going to cost more than an arm and a leg?
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Around R30,000.

Thank goodness we don't have emissions standards here...

All in the name of letting that turboed engine breath...

Probably starting with a 76mm downpipe. Will keep the cat and fit back if need be.
 
PostmanPot said:
Around R30,000.

Thank goodness we don't have emissions standards here...

All in the name of letting that turboed engine breath...

Probably starting with a 76mm downpipe. Will keep the cat and fit back if need be.
Click to expand...

That's just taking the piss.

More power will be nice though, is that 190kw on the wheels or at the fly (I assume flywheel)? They make 162kw at the fly stock correct?

What would the cost be for the Downpipe, decat and tune?
 
TehStranger said:
That's just taking the piss.

More power will be nice though, is that 190kw on the wheels or at the fly (I assume flywheel)? They make 162kw at the fly stock correct?

What would the cost be for the Downpipe, decat and tune?
Click to expand...

I think that's right, ATF.

R3,200 - R3,800 from Powerflow. But I know a bra where other places outsource to... Insanely high quality work... R2,200. :)
 
Agreed, just go 76mm DP, Etuners make a really good one.

Problem with the BWA (I assume you have the BWA and not the BUL) is they sound horrible with just a DP, hence why I have not gone for one yet, I would recommend getting a full exhaust done.

Software is also not needed, you will not get an error as long as the sensors are re-attached, you may have a slight drop in economy though which software will correct (I would personally go for MRC from EVO Performance).

The DP will definitely help the turbo breath better which means you turbo will start to noticeably boost from just below 2000rpm as apposed to 2400rpm stock
 
M3mPh1z said:
Agreed, just go 76mm DP, Etuners make a really good one.

Problem with the BWA (I assume you have the BWA and not the BUL) is they sound horrible with just a DP, hence why I have not gone for one yet, I would recommend getting a full exhaust done.

Software is also not needed, you will not get an error as long as the sensors are re-attached, you may have a slight drop in economy though which software will correct (I would personally go for MRC from EVO Performance).

The DP will definitely help the turbo breath better which means you turbo will start to noticeably boost from just below 2000rpm as apposed to 2400rpm stock
Click to expand...

BWE in mine. Think BWA is A3, same engine but in different orientation.

Been advised to go 76mm to the mid box...

Any reason MRC opposed to others?

Thanks for the info, sounding good.
 
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