The Audi Thread

Where do you get the seals?
RMH sourced them probably from Audi parts or one of their other sources.
Seals and ancillary parts were about R2.3k, ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors R700 and then the labor of R2300.
 
RMH sourced them probably from Audi parts or one of their other sources.
Seals and ancillary parts were about R2.3k, ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors R700 and then the labor of R2300.
Did you get new bolt for the injector because from what I read those bolts are one time use only they stretch or something thats why they cant be used again.
 
Did you get new bolt for the injector because from what I read those bolts are one time use only they stretch or something thats why they cant be used again.
Yes, 6 new bolts included.
 
Twice in a row now when idling the injector is seemingly fine for the first time in a week.
So it may be if you catch it early and change the seals it may be possible that your injector recovers itself.. (prays harder lol)
 
Twice in a row now when idling the injector is seemingly fine for the first time in a week.
So it may be if you catch it early and change the seals it may be possible that your injector recovers itself.. (prays harder lol)
have you tried an italian tune up?
 
Twice in a row now when idling the injector is seemingly fine for the first time in a week.
So it may be if you catch it early and change the seals it may be possible that your injector recovers itself.. (prays harder lol)
where your washers ****ed? or are they bullshitting baffles brains? I'm on 220k and still fine.
 
where your washers ****ed? or are they bullshitting baffles brains? I'm on 220k and still fine.
Ya the washers were missing entirly or pitted AF
IMG-20230306-WA0031.jpgIMG-20230306-WA0045.jpg

Not sure which engine you have but I like to give mine quite a bit of stick...and I only bought it at 100kkms so who knows what happenned before.
 
Personally anything for sale in central JHB I ignore as a scam automatically.
You will notice, no matter how old the car it always has ridiculously low mileage at least..
Wrote my comment before seeing yours, agreed.
 
Ya the washers were missing entirly or pitted AF
View attachment 1490497View attachment 1490499

Not sure which engine you have but I like to give mine quite a bit of stick...and I only bought it at 100kkms so who knows what happenned before.
Wow, yeah I have a 2012 A4 CDUC (180kW) S-Tronic. Bought it 5 years ago with 160k. The only issues I've had was MAF sensor (less than a grand) which probably ****ed up the DPF which was removed which transformed the car into a free-revving S3/GolfR eating cash in transit truck smelling sleeper.

I go out of my way every 6 months to replace the oil (with proper stuff from dealer) and filters (air and filter and cabin (why not) from dealer). I just give Audi my VIN number and I know what I'm putting in is proper. I don't know if that has any effect on injectors. Oh yes, I also go out of my way since I discovered 10ppm in durban (total garage) which helps a lot with the cash in transit truck smell.

If I had to get my injectors removed tested and stuff, new seals and bolts, what would the damage be? My strategy (as money is tight) is to be like Eskom and only fix stuff after it breaks.

So far, the only issues I have at the moment is some oil leaks (from day 1 though) and now recently have started loosing coolant. So I keep a 5l of G13 pink stuff diluted with distilled water in boot and just pop the hood before I go (engine cold) and check the level. I've got it down to a T and have figured out the oil level display because if you something in the wrong order, then it doesn't show the oil level for ages, which is get in and turn ignition on (no brake pedal), press button on trip computer to stop beeeeeeep because door is open, turn aircon off to save battery, press volume button to mute music, go to oil display on MMI, pull bonnet release, get out but DONT CLOSE DOOR, open bonnet and check level (3 secs), close bonnet, get in, oil level is still displayed with engine temp warning, all good, press brake pedal and start engine, turn aircon on and carry on with your day.

The coolant issue is weird as it's not a constant loss, sometimes I top up once a week or once a month. According to YT, there is the EGR cooler between the V that has a plastic part that cracks but apparently you should be able to see liquid collecting in the V but mine is dry. So for now, I will just keep topping up until the problem gets so bad you can just point to it.

Another thing I want to sort out, but finding a trustworthy tuner is the only thing holding me back, is that before the DPF removal I could drive from dbn to jhb and back on one 60l tank @ 130km/h (1200km?). After the removal with custom downpipe (beautiful job I must say) and remap, I drove down to cape town at 120km/h and could only manage 850km on a tank.

The guy that did the job (remap & pipe work) listened to my demands of please blank off the EGR (because that's what we do isn't it) but now I have heavy consumption (awesome performance, and even some puffs of black smoke to dump on the arse rider behind you when you kick down) and said to me that he could do it with software. Whether it has been done or not and EGR is disabled or not I can't say, but I did some research where 90% say you should get better consumption, then the other 10% say (which makes perfect sense) that without EGR, you have more oxygen which then burns more fuel and increases temps (haven't noticed any temp changes myself - I VAGCOMed the oil temp display (lap timer) on the onboard).

So I want someone to trustworthy to give me back my 1200km per tank and giving me the EGR story to me straight, meaning, if I can get 1200km and no EGR so engine stays clean then hallelujah.

I'm rambling now.

TL/DR:

Audi is awesome! Best sound system ever, can drive with one finger during torrential rain and hurricane winds with cruise control.




Do you have tiptronic or stronic?
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X