The Audi Thread

IceQB said:
Was doing fine until Wednesday, water leak in William Moffet.
Got home to check, turbo coolant hose busted.
Tavcor wants R2500, import from China R550 with shipping.
Just don't know how long it will take.
Still looking locally first for someone stripping or stripped that off.
If by Tuesday I don't find I'll order from China
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Surely a hydraulic hose place can make something up that will work, that’s not very complicated?
 
Wastegate rattle says hiiiii

I was wondering why my car sounded like the freewheel on an old bicycle lately. There's no easy or permanent fix (some folks put springs on the WG rod or adjust the preload but seems a lot like putting a band-aid on a missing limb) so I'm currently eyeballing a hybrid k03/k04 turbo...gleefully, I might add:popcorn:
 
So, I am one step closer to finding out why my car has horrible fuel consumption.

My rear timing chain is off by 18 degrees:eek:. It should be 0 degrees with a new timing chain (which it has), and at 6 degrees it is recommended that the chain and tensioner job be done.

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PhireSide said:
So, I am one step closer to finding out why my car has horrible fuel consumption.

My rear timing chain is off by 18 degrees:eek:. It should be 0 degrees with a new timing chain (which it has), and at 6 degrees it is recommended that the chain and tensioner job be done.

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Did the dodgy mechanic do that, probably no timing tools to lock the crank and cams in place?
From what I have seen it’s pretty easy to do if you have the timing tools, pretty much idiotproof.
 
airborne said:
Did the dodgy mechanic do that, probably no timing tools to lock the crank and cams in place?
From what I have seen it’s pretty easy to do if you have the timing tools, pretty much idiotproof.
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No clue, to be honest. I don’t know any VAG specialists here in PE, so I might try get the tools and attempt it myself
 
The results are in:

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Going by the multiple guides online and using the VW/Audi camshaft locking tool it seems like the issue is definitely with the timing between the two camshafts. The exhaust side (left) is correctly timed with the belt, but the intake side (right) seems to be out with one tooth on the chain as the lobes on cylinder 4 are sitting anticlockwise of where they should be. This corresponds with the timing I got from VCDS saying it is about 18-19 degrees late (360*/19teeth on the sprocket gives 18.9 degrees, plus-minus 1 degree to allow for chain stretch/expansion)
 
PhireSide said:
The results are in:

View attachment 1574040

Going by the multiple guides online and using the VW/Audi camshaft locking tool it seems like the issue is definitely with the timing between the two camshafts. The exhaust side (left) is correctly timed with the belt, but the intake side (right) seems to be out with one tooth on the chain as the lobes on cylinder 4 are sitting anticlockwise of where they should be. This corresponds with the timing I got from VCDS saying it is about 18-19 degrees late (360*/19teeth on the sprocket gives 18.9 degrees, plus-minus 1 degree to allow for chain stretch/expansion)
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Is that good news or does it require hectic tear down?
 
airborne said:
Is that good news or does it require hectic tear down?
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Bad news. Wasn’t too costly (R700 for the cam locking tool, R173 for Reinzosil, R205 for the PolyDrive socket and R50 for the M10 PolyDrive bolt) but myself and a colleague did it over three days.

It involves taking off a few things - valve cover, HPFP, vacuum pump, cam chain cover, front timing cover, cam girdle, putting the car into service mode (so taking the wheels off, wheel liners, undertray, bumper, putting the carrier lock in service position). I think that’s about it. Audi’s workshop manual calls for the timing to be set using the cam locking tool, but it allows for too much variance - we ended up bolting it up wrong again, so we had to redo everything twice and a third time due to a loose bolt on the coolant flange that we missed the first time.

All in all we probably spent 16-18 hours on this, most of it waiting for the sealant to cure and figuring out what needs to come off for what. The guides online help a lot, but not if the car has been worked on before and you have Torx where you should have Hex bolts etc. Then it becomes a struggle.

I’m waiting for the sealant to cure again, so will only know later today or maybe tomorrow if the timing is right, but eyeballing it, it looks the way other DIY guides online show it to be. Also installed the battery tray that arrived and a new coolant bottle.

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I’m tired now.
 
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PhireSide said:
Bad news. Wasn’t too costly (R700 for the cam locking tool, R173 for Reinzosil, R205 for the PolyDrive socket and R50 for the M10 PolyDrive bolt) but myself and a colleague did it over three days.

It involves taking off a few things - valve cover, HPFP, vacuum pump, cam chain cover, front timing cover, cam girdle, putting the car into service mode (so taking the wheels off, wheel liners, undertray, bumper, putting the carrier lock in service position). I think that’s about it. Audi’s workshop manual calls for the timing to be set using the cam locking tool, but it allows for too much variance - we ended up bolting it up wrong again, so we had to redo everything twice and a third time due to a loose bolt on the coolant flange that we missed the first time.

All in all we probably spent 16-18 hours on this, most of it waiting for the sealant to cure and figuring out what needs to come off for what. The guides online help a lot, but not if the car has been worked on before and you have Torx where you should have Hex bolts etc. Then it becomes a struggle.

I’m waiting for the sealant to cure again, so will only know later today or maybe tomorrow if the timing is right, but eyeballing it, it looks the way other DIY guides online show it to be. Also installed the battery tray that arrived and a new coolant bottle.

image.png


I’m tired now.
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How did it work out?!

I can only laugh albeit grimacing while reading that, that’s the life of a mechanic and even more so home gamers. There’s so many varibles at play and as they you correctly pointed out even more so when it’s been bodged before. I’ve been there before so many times, what a fk up!!

That being said when you do the work yourself it gets done properly, I love opening things I worked on previously, no seized or overtightened nuts or surprises.

That was an arduous job, especially without a lift, in other news that coolant bottle looks minty af. It always makes the engine bay look so fresh with a pristine coolant bottle, granted that no one will ever see baring yourself and the petrol attendant :love:
 
airborne said:
How did it work out?!

I can only laugh albeit grimacing while reading that, that’s the life of a mechanic and even more so home gamers. There’s so many varibles at play and as they you correctly pointed out even more so when it’s been bodged before. I’ve been there before so many times, what a fk up!!

That being said when you do the work yourself it gets done properly, I love opening things I worked on previously, no seized or overtightened nuts or surprises.

That was an arduous job, especially without a lift, in other news that coolant bottle looks minty af. It always makes the engine bay look so fresh with a pristine coolant bottle, granted that no one will ever see baring yourself and the petrol attendant :love:
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So...not good.

I had an implausible camshaft speed reading which was no bueno. I took it out and cleaned it as some Reinzosil made it's way onto it. Fit it back in and started the engine up after turning it over a few times with fuse #28 (fuel pump) removed and the coil packs off to build oil pressure, got a reading again but now it's showing 19 degrees advanced. So moving it forward one tooth somehow advanced it by 37 degrees instead of the 19 degrees I was aiming for (which makes sense in my head as 360 degrees / 19 teeth = 18.9 ~ 19.0 degrees). The only explanation is that the timing jumped a tooth which I think is impossible, as I double and triple-checked both the chain links, the tensioner and the valve lobes before putting the valve cover back on.

I'm going to pull the valve cover now and see, but I misplaced my 19 socket so I can't turn the engine over to put it at TDC.

Updates to follow. And yeah, hopefully the next buyer sees the new bottle and battery tray and decides not to haggle as I think that moment is coming very soon :ROFL:

Edit: So it looks like I may be on a wild goose chase, sort of. Embarrassingly, I may have a slight discrepancy in the crank TDC mark and the cam TDC mark, so I’ll be pulling off the bumper now to check and remedy should that be the issue.
 
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PhireSide said:
So...not good.

I had an implausible camshaft speed reading which was no bueno. I took it out and cleaned it as some Reinzosil made it's way onto it. Fit it back in and started the engine up after turning it over a few times with fuse #28 (fuel pump) removed and the coil packs off to build oil pressure, got a reading again but now it's showing 19 degrees advanced. So moving it forward one tooth somehow advanced it by 37 degrees instead of the 19 degrees I was aiming for (which makes sense in my head as 360 degrees / 19 teeth = 18.9 ~ 19.0 degrees). The only explanation is that the timing jumped a tooth which I think is impossible, as I double and triple-checked both the chain links, the tensioner and the valve lobes before putting the valve cover back on.

I'm going to pull the valve cover now and see, but I misplaced my 19 socket so I can't turn the engine over to put it at TDC.

Updates to follow. And yeah, hopefully the next buyer sees the new bottle and battery tray and decides not to haggle as I think that moment is coming very soon :ROFL:

Edit: So it looks like I may be on a wild goose chase, sort of. Embarrassingly, I may have a slight discrepancy in the crank TDC mark and the cam TDC mark, so I’ll be pulling off the bumper now to check and remedy should that be the issue.
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Shucks, that sucks long time, did some one fiddle with the factory timing marks on the block?
Did you check the TDC with a screwdriver down a spark plug?
 
airborne said:
Shucks, that sucks long time, did some one fiddle with the factory timing marks on the block?
Did you check the TDC with a screwdriver down a spark plug?
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I don't think so. I verified *actual* TDC with a straw in the cylinder, and it seems to line up (mark on the camshaft pulley, mark on the harmonic balancer) so I am at a loss right now. I thought that maybe the harmonic balancer was off center and as we were aligning with that, it could be the cause, but all the marks line up. The cam lobes are also pointing the correct way, and the camshaft locking tool fits perfectly.

I think earlier on the engine stopped and ran back a bit against compression, and happened to stop at TDC so I think that is why I saw seeing some variance. If I move it a tooth either way on the camshaft, it moves quite a bit on the crank, so I doubt that is the issue. My issue still seems to be with the camchain between the intake and exhaust cam. What is also throwing me for a loop is that I have a part number on the exhaust cam but not the intake cam, so I am suspicious of it at the moment. If the intake cam is not per the factory spec, and I am aligning it with the lobes, the camshaft sensor will throw a code as well as the section where the camshaft sensor rotates will not line up with what the ECU expects.
 
PhireSide said:
I don't think so. I verified *actual* TDC with a straw in the cylinder, and it seems to line up (mark on the camshaft pulley, mark on the harmonic balancer) so I am at a loss right now. I thought that maybe the harmonic balancer was off center and as we were aligning with that, it could be the cause, but all the marks line up. The cam lobes are also pointing the correct way, and the camshaft locking tool fits perfectly.

I think earlier on the engine stopped and ran back a bit against compression, and happened to stop at TDC so I think that is why I saw seeing some variance. If I move it a tooth either way on the camshaft, it moves quite a bit on the crank, so I doubt that is the issue. My issue still seems to be with the camchain between the intake and exhaust cam. What is also throwing me for a loop is that I have a part number on the exhaust cam but not the intake cam, so I am suspicious of it at the moment. If the intake cam is not per the factory spec, and I am aligning it with the lobes, the camshaft sensor will throw a code as well as the section where the camshaft sensor rotates will not line up with what the ECU expects.
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Fok! That is painful to read, I hope something pop's out at you and the light goes on as to what is causing it. That cam is suspicious, could the part number possibly be stamped somewhere you can't see with the cam in the head?
Are you sure the guy that changed the cam chain and tensioner/follower did indeed do that?
 
airborne said:
Fok! That is painful to read, I hope something pop's out at you and the light goes on as to what is causing it. That cam is suspicious, could the part number possibly be stamped somewhere you can't see with the cam in the head?
Are you sure the guy that changed the cam chain and tensioner/follower did indeed do that?
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Me as well, mate. But I am coming up blank as to what it could be.

What's weird is that the exhaust cam has the intake cam part number and the intake cam is blank. Which tells me that maybe it was sold as a set, and only had one part number for both cams? The intake cam should be 06F 109 101 B and the exhaust should be 06F 109 102 B. Yet on mine, the exhaust is 06F 109 101 B and the intake cam is absent of any part numbers. I took the cams out of the head to verify as well.

The cam chain tensioner and chain look quite new, as are the cams, so they weremost likely replaced with new items - the head and girdle as well, so no issues there. The only thing I can think of is that the actual phaser is faulty, perhaps allowing too much rotation when no oil pressure is present and that is throwing my timing off? It is supposed to be kept in place with a detent when the engine is off and no oil pressure is supplied to the head, however, I haven't checked that as I first need to take the cam to an engineering shop to have the stripped PolyDrive drilled out before I can open it up and verify.
 
Also, with the timing as advanced as it is, the car still drives, but behaves like an Isuzu 2.4d below 3000rpm and howls like a wailing banshee above that mark. I think with the car not seeing the cams in correct alignment it disables VVT as a precaution, and boy what a difference it makes

The girdle is coming off again this weekend, hopefully for the last time. I found my old cams in a box inside the garage so I will compare profiles while I have the new cams out, just to be a hundred percent sure that it's not something silly like cam lift/duration throwing me for a loop.

BTW - can anyone perhaps recommend a good solvent to dissolve Reinzosil? It's a bugger cleaning it out of the girdle grooves, and anything that can shave an hour off the reassembly time will be a boon.
 
Vitor Reinz makes a silicone/seal remover liquid, apparently makes it much easier to clean off, I’d definitely give that a try and some plastic scrapers and those plastic cellphone pry tools work great without scoring.
 
Thanks @airborne

I found that Re-Move on their site too, but not sure if our local Midas will stock it. Will go take a peep during lunch tomorrow and see if I can find something that will work. Good tip on the cellphone pry tools, I have a few of those floating around here too.
 
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