The Corsa problem solver

TheChamp said:
Who sells the Huco brand?
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86 Dam Road
1459 Boksburg, South Africa
Get Directions
Highlights info row image

011 894 8125
Highlights info row image

www.huco.co.za
 
Dimpie (COMPUTEK) said:
Nevermind, got the voltage regulator replaced by a backyard macky for R650 ;)
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The joy of having a car with serviceable parts, I wonder if you can still replace those on these new, expensive cars or they have found a way to link everything to the cars computer so that you cannot replace it without having to visit your friendly dealer to reset some module, at a reasonable price of course.
 
Dammit finding the recommended grade of oil for the C14SE on the internet is useless, everything from 5W50 to 30W50:X3::X3:

I'm going for 5W30 though.
 
gamer16 said:
Dammit finding the recommended grade of oil for the C14SE on the internet is useless, everything from 5W50 to 30W50:X3::X3:

I'm going for 5W30 though.
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The manual recommends 20W50, I really don't think 5W30 will be good for your car, especially now because it's summer, the Corsa engine does run hot as well. I have been using 15w40 for some time now and it's not bad for fuel consumption, maybe try something like that or 10w40.
 
TheChamp said:
The manual recommends 20W50, I really don't think 5W30 will be good for your car, especially now because it's summer, the Corsa engine does run hot as well. I have been using 15w40 for some time now and it's not bad for fuel consumption, maybe try something like that or 10w40.
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You have a point, also thinking 20 weight considering its over 160k so gap tolerances will be worse, luckily my top end is whisper quiet even at start-up where the lifters will usually knock for a second until oil gets to them
 

‘He knows it wasn’t the right thing to do’: Former owner of Corsa with trolley instead of back wheel speaks - Times Live​

A mixture of shock, outrage and incredulity met video footage this week of a Cape Town motorist driving an Opel Corsa with its back right wheel replaced with a flatbed trolley.

The car’s previous owner gave TimesLIVE context to the video, which has been viewed 219,000 times on Twitter.
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Read the full news report at the link below:

www.timeslive.co.za

‘He knows it wasn’t the right thing to do’: Former owner of Corsa with trolley instead of back wheel speaks

A mixture of shock, outrage and incredulity met video footage this week of a Cape Town motorist driving an Opel Corsa with its back right wheel replaced with a flatbed trolley.
www.timeslive.co.za www.timeslive.co.za
 
Newby here desperately looking for advice. I have a 2002 Corsa B 1.4 Utility - with what I think is the C14SE engine as it definitely has multi-point fuel injection. 20 years old in about 3 week's time - and only 106.000 km.

My problem is dieseling - the engine intermittently continues to run-on for anything from a single turn to sometimes for 2 seconds when I switch off the ignition. I emphasize intermittently, because there is no pattern to this happening - sometimes it happens after 10 or so short drives, where all the previous shut downs did not result in dieseling. Sometimes after long trips (3 or 4 x 60+ km trips) with perfect shut downs, the next one suddenly would have the engine shaking as it turns over a few times. It does not appear to be the ignition switch as I have observed that all other electrical circuits are shut down immediately when I turn the key. Lastly, this happens in winter and in summer .. from an icy cold day to a scorcher with no pattern or predictability based on temperature when I switch it off.

I have no other symptoms except occasionally a faint fuel smell when I switch off. I have run two bottles of Wynns fuel injector cleaner and two tanks full of decarboniser through the engine and have replaced the plugs (the correct grade - Bosch). There is no more than the usual trace of brown and carbon on the plug isolator. There is no loss of power, no uneven idling, no starting problems and even when I do a long fast drive the oil level doesn't drop so it is unlikely that there is fuel in the oil that evaporates when the engine gets hot. It still pulls and accelerates as it always did ...

I have owned it for 12 years now, having bought it at 58.000 km from somebody who mainly drove it for long distances. Except for service items (plugs, filters, belts etc.) and wear and tear components, it has only required one coil pack, an alternator / voltage regulator overhaul and 2 batteries.

Over to the people who know this amazing little workhorse - and it's hatchback siblings - better than I do!

Pierre
 
PC_Corsa_Utility said:
Newby here desperately looking for advice. I have a 2002 Corsa B 1.4 Utility - with what I think is the C14SE engine as it definitely has multi-point fuel injection. 20 years old in about 3 week's time - and only 106.000 km.

My problem is dieseling - the engine intermittently continues to run-on for anything from a single turn to sometimes for 2 seconds when I switch off the ignition. I emphasize intermittently, because there is no pattern to this happening - sometimes it happens after 10 or so short drives, where all the previous shut downs did not result in dieseling. Sometimes after long trips (3 or 4 x 60+ km trips) with perfect shut downs, the next one suddenly would have the engine shaking as it turns over a few times. It does not appear to be the ignition switch as I have observed that all other electrical circuits are shut down immediately when I turn the key. Lastly, this happens in winter and in summer .. from an icy cold day to a scorcher with no pattern or predictability based on temperature when I switch it off.

I have no other symptoms except occasionally a faint fuel smell when I switch off. I have run two bottles of Wynns fuel injector cleaner and two tanks full of decarboniser through the engine and have replaced the plugs (the correct grade - Bosch). There is no more than the usual trace of brown and carbon on the plug isolator. There is no loss of power, no uneven idling, no starting problems and even when I do a long fast drive the oil level doesn't drop so it is unlikely that there is fuel in the oil that evaporates when the engine gets hot. It still pulls and accelerates as it always did ...

I have owned it for 12 years now, having bought it at 58.000 km from somebody who mainly drove it for long distances. Except for service items (plugs, filters, belts etc.) and wear and tear components, it has only required one coil pack, an alternator / voltage regulator overhaul and 2 batteries.

Over to the people who know this amazing little workhorse - and it's hatchback siblings - better than I do!

Pierre
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Welcome

Maybe the carbon buildup is way more than you think?

common reasons : https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Why-My-Engine-Keeps-Running
 
Dimpie (COMPUTEK) said:
Welcome

Maybe the carbon buildup is way more than you think?

common reasons : https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Why-My-Engine-Keeps-Running
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Hi Dimpie

It is possible. From what I could learn on many forums is that if it is carbon build-up it will be much more consistent than my intermittent experience. But then, that is not stated explicitly anywhere - it is my inference from many evenings reading (until by luck I discovered this forum today!). Also, there should not be fuel in the cylinders to ignite with a fuel injection system, unless there are leaking injectors. Again, then it should run-on every time I switch off?

Maybe the 2 bottles decarb in the fuel was not enough? Maybe I should do the decarb option where the stuff is directly injected into the intake? Or have a professional cylinder head / valves decarb job done?

PC
 
"Dieseling" is typically due to (bypass) air, i.e. past the too wide open throttle blade after shut down - in carburetor engines. If the same theory applies for a FI engine, I would check if the IACV (idle air control valve) seat is worn out, the butterfly sticks or the EGR is sooty.

I believe you have the linear EGR, which should have a cleaning routine applied by the software. Means it moves through its total travel occasionally to scrape carbon off. If that did not happen frequently, the L-EGR shaft is stuck.

OPEL used two different tapers for their IACV pins. The wrong one may have found its way into your car. (they operate and look the same, yet have different numbers on them)

The IACV spindle is not guided well, causing that taper to hit the seat in the throttle body and elongate it. Even for low-mileage engines. This could be the reason for the intermittent failure.

We used to test the TBI butterfly by looking at the TPS voltage at ignition ON (i.e. 0.2V) and compare to idle.
If it was lower at idle (i.e. 0.18V) we knew the vacuum of the engine pulled the throttle plate, indicating wear - which could also stick some times. This may be the same for SE engines. Easy to check if you have a scanner.

After disconnecting the IACV it will reset itself when revving the motor to 3.500(?) rpm.
 
Very detailed explanation, they do fill up with gunk in the throttle body, maybe a good clean with a carburetor spray as a start.
 
Thank you @Tom427 .. I will definitely check out the IACV pins.

However, all information I have on the C14SE engine indicates that it does not have a (servicable) EGR system.

Re your recommendation to use a scanner: my OBD-II scanner does not work on a 2002 model - it seems that Opel of that generation used a proprietary or different (non-CANBUS) standard - so that is a challenge for me!

@TheChamp: I will definitely use some carburetor cleaner, thanks.
 
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