The Home Improvements Thread (3)

What can I use to fill this gap made by electrician?

Would those foam fillers work?

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My electrician has his work cut out for him.

This is just the conduit for the electrical, there is still another bunch for the low voltage and network cables. He was here until 10pm the other night getting all the conduit installed so the plasterers could finish the walls.

1764148105777.png
 
My electrician has his work cut out for him.

This is just the conduit for the electrical, there is still another bunch for the low voltage and network cables. He was here until 10pm the other night getting all the conduit installed so the plasterers could finish the walls.

View attachment 1866469
+1 Always put in a few more even if they stay empty. Ideas and needs change over time and it's nice having options.
 
I actually hate spending money on Keter stuff.

I find them to be insanely overpriced, but haven't actually come across decent alternatives... the other options just look too cheap.
Desperately needed some garden storage for braai wood, fertilizer, shovels etc. since I'm part of the garageless complex folk (Zeus bless our souls, the struggle is real). Also doubles as table or sitting bench during braai time, that's the only reason I decided to pull the trigger.

If anyone's wondering:
I highly suggest buying from Keter SA directly, they have free delivery and I have a suspicion the "unique" ranges they're selling at places like Builders is a borderline scam to get you to pay more for less on something that's already overpriced for what it is.

Having owned an entire Keter shed before, I think that dark plastic lid is going to bake itself in it m0er in over time. I think I'm going to get some thin planks that I can varnish, bolt on top with 5-10cm spacing to make it look like a real wood box/bench. That should give proper UV protection and add more support, so the lid doesn't bake itself into all kinds of awkward shapes in the summer sun.

(Ignore all the soil, had to dig like a f**ing mole to get the thing levelled on some cinder blocks, you always want to level Keter products and give them a solid base, I've learned from the past)

1764346404589.png

Quite big inside, can easily fit your crap alongside a dead hooker and some ice bags to give you more time to clean up after an oopsie.

My guess is with brands like Keter, you're basically paying for all the ribbing and structural integrity they design into the moulds while keeping the walls relatively thin. That's why I've learned with their stuff to make damn sure you level it, they design for specific forces in certain directions so if you're off even a bit the structural integrity and rigidity doesn't work as it should.

1764346730044.png
 
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I'm looking for a smart device that will send a notification to my phone when the grid power drops. My solar system is supposed to do this, but the notifications don't work.

I assume that this device will need to be plugged into the grid? I'm not 100% sure what I need to look for, so if anyone has advice, I'd be grateful
 
I'm looking for a smart device that will send a notification to my phone when the grid power drops. My solar system is supposed to do this, but the notifications don't work.

I assume that this device will need to be plugged into the grid? I'm not 100% sure what I need to look for, so if anyone has advice, I'd be grateful

What solar system? Sunsynk sends me notifications, I have also setup a Home Assistant automation that sends myself and my wife a notification and flashes a few lamps in the house to warn our nanny and domestic...
 
I actually hate spending money on Keter stuff.

I find them to be insanely overpriced, but haven't actually come across decent alternatives... the other options just look too cheap.
Desperately needed some garden storage for braai wood, fertilizer, shovels etc. since I'm part of the garageless complex folk (Zeus bless our souls, the struggle is real). Also doubles as table or sitting bench during braai time, that's the only reason I decided to pull the trigger.

If anyone's wondering:
I highly suggest buying from Keter SA directly, they have free delivery and I have a suspicion the "unique" ranges they're selling at places like Builders is a borderline scam to get you to pay more for less on something that's already overpriced for what it is.

Having owned an entire Keter shed before, I think that dark plastic lid is going to bake itself in it m0er in over time. I think I'm going to get some thin planks that I can varnish, bolt on top with 5-10cm spacing to make it look like a real wood box/bench. That should give proper UV protection and add more support, so the lid doesn't bake itself into all kinds of awkward shapes in the summer sun.

(Ignore all the soil, had to dig like a f**ing mole to get the thing levelled on some cinder blocks, you always want to level Keter products and give them a solid base, I've learned from the past)

View attachment 1867205

Quite big inside, can easily fit your crap alongside a dead hooker and some ice bags to give you more time to clean up after an oopsie.

My guess is with brands like Keter, you're basically paying for all the ribbing and structural integrity they design into the moulds while keeping the walls relatively thin. That's why I've learned with their stuff to make damn sure you level it, they design for specific forces in certain directions so if you're off even a bit the structural integrity and rigidity doesn't work as it should.

View attachment 1867207
I had a keter box like that before, it got taken out by hail, so the wood cover is a good idea, perhaps put 2-3 slats depth-wise, and rest the width-wise ones on top, to allow for moisture/water/rain to evaporate.
 
I had a keter box like that before, it got taken out by hail, so the wood cover is a good idea, perhaps put 2-3 slats depth-wise, and rest the width-wise ones on top, to allow for moisture/water/rain to evaporate.

The hail issue is a good point.
I might need to consider some kind of rubber or similar padding I can mount on top of the lid while I'm at it (but that would look crap).
Lid weight is an issue so I tried to keep things light, don't want those little gas pistons holding it up to die one year in.

I haven't mounted anything yet, but for now I've finished varnishing the wood slats (took ages with this weather). Shoutout to Builder's for having every single colour under the sun except the light oak finish I actually wanted.

Will be using three stainless steel bolts for each slat, and use large washers between the slats and the plastic top to leave a 1.5mm gap so water can evaporate. 8mm holes with 6mm bolts so there's space for the lid to move as it's contracting and expanding.

Will also fill all the holes in the slats with silicone after I've drilled them so water cannot seep down the bolt threads or into the wood from the inside of the holes... and would also need to silicone all the washers to prevent seepage... also going to dip the bolts and washers in some SprayMate anti-tarnish I used on my copper pipes outside, stainless does in fact rust eventually.

1764745481970.png

EDIT:
Shoutout to this stuff... keeps any metal like your copper piping outside looking lekker after you've Brasso'd them.
No more polishing after the initial polish, just wiping down the new plastic layer that bonds to the metal.

1764747223289.png 1764747298702.png
 
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Helping out a friend with this but does this quote sound reasonable? To me it seems a bit on the pricey side.

It's a glass pane for a sliding door pane of glass. Not 100% sure of the thickness but it's 1995x720mm. R3200-odd with installation.

1764767525808.png
 
Helping out a friend with this but does this quote sound reasonable? To me it seems a bit on the pricey side.

It's a glass pane for a sliding door pane of glass. Not 100% sure of the thickness but it's 1995x720mm. R3200-odd with installation.

View attachment 1868389
Glass pane is very fairly priced.. Labour on the other hand is up there alright.. shop around for better labour if your friend wants to..
 
Glass pane is very fairly priced.. Labour on the other hand is up there alright.. shop around for better labour if your friend wants to..
Thanks, I thought as much. Will advise him to seek some other quotes to compare.
 
I'm looking for a smart device that will send a notification to my phone when the grid power drops. My solar system is supposed to do this, but the notifications don't work.

I assume that this device will need to be plugged into the grid? I'm not 100% sure what I need to look for, so if anyone has advice, I'd be grateful
If you have Home Assistant it's very easy. You can use virtually any smart device - just plug it in where nobody will accidentally switch it off. Create an automation that triggers when that device's status changes to "unavailable" .
 
The hail issue is a good point.
I might need to consider some kind of rubber or similar padding I can mount on top of the lid while I'm at it (but that would look crap).
Lid weight is an issue so I tried to keep things light, don't want those little gas pistons holding it up to die one year in.

I haven't mounted anything yet, but for now I've finished varnishing the wood slats (took ages with this weather). Shoutout to Builder's for having every single colour under the sun except the light oak finish I actually wanted.

Will be using three stainless steel bolts for each slat, and use large washers between the slats and the plastic top to leave a 1.5mm gap so water can evaporate. 8mm holes with 6mm bolts so there's space for the lid to move as it's contracting and expanding.

Will also fill all the holes in the slats with silicone after I've drilled them so water cannot seep down the bolt threads or into the wood from the inside of the holes... and would also need to silicone all the washers to prevent seepage... also going to dip the bolts and washers in some SprayMate anti-tarnish I used on my copper pipes outside, stainless does in fact rust eventually.

View attachment 1868239

EDIT:
Shoutout to this stuff... keeps any metal like your copper piping outside looking lekker after you've Brasso'd them.
No more polishing after the initial polish, just wiping down the new plastic layer that bonds to the metal.

View attachment 1868252 View attachment 1868254

Finally done with, well, whatever this is.
I never in my life want to see white silicone sealant again. Add to the cost of this project a new pair of pants and a T-shirt.

(Always wear your most expensive brand-new T-shirt or pants when you're doing DIY projects, it is the way.
"Not need to change, I'm just quickly going to..." ... sure Raptor, sure)


1764867185317.png


EDIT:
Hole drilled for a Frangipani plant too for some future shade. Now it's up to the Kikuyu grass to do its thing.
Apparently, someone thought it was funny and laid down a thin concrete layer underneath parts of my garden... probably remnants from the building site from way back in the day.

1764915980251.png

By the way, if you're a lazy f**k like me who's allergic to picks, shovels and pitchforks, these things work great.

Yes, you look like a pansy while using it, but the muscle monster swinging a pick around doesn't get to sit with crossed legs while having a beer in one hand and a ra-ta-ta hammer mode hole maker in the other.... god, I love lithium cells and brushless motors.

Ra-ta-ta-ta-ta-taaaas.... I f**ing haaate Kikuyu grass!

1764916029992.png
 
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Looking for recommendations, the obvious answer is I need a professional to inspect, but I've got a lightning rod problem, bottom section seems to be rusted almost off, only noticed because of a creaking noise and looked up to this sight.

Any recommendations of companies to use and what I'm likely in for?
a2bed43ab566002001ffa7593e60eeba.jpg
499e33218cc7fe441d536aee10f6578f.jpg
13a2086515289ab5b88f9178f0916f70.jpg
0fdafacdeb6242d76bb71c81c64d0af4.jpg
e9c5342cc6487561d62de08932c122dd.jpg
 
Looking for recommendations, the obvious answer is I need a professional to inspect, but I've got a lightning rod problem, bottom section seems to be rusted almost off, only noticed because of a creaking noise and looked up to this sight.
Any recommendations of companies to use and what I'm likely in for?
a2bed43ab566002001ffa7593e60eeba.jpg
499e33218cc7fe441d536aee10f6578f.jpg
13a2086515289ab5b88f9178f0916f70.jpg
0fdafacdeb6242d76bb71c81c64d0af4.jpg


Nooit bru that looks fubar. Replace imo.
 
Looking for recommendations, the obvious answer is I need a professional to inspect, but I've got a lightning rod problem, bottom section seems to be rusted almost off, only noticed because of a creaking noise and looked up to this sight.

Any recommendations of companies to use and what I'm likely in for?
a2bed43ab566002001ffa7593e60eeba.jpg
499e33218cc7fe441d536aee10f6578f.jpg
13a2086515289ab5b88f9178f0916f70.jpg
0fdafacdeb6242d76bb71c81c64d0af4.jpg
e9c5342cc6487561d62de08932c122dd.jpg
Forget about inspection, replace that.. don't believe any professional telling you that they can weld that back together..
 
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