Saalocin Rekked
Well-Known Member
Finally finished reading through all the post, all 30 pages...
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Yes, With digital you take tons of short exposure shots, and then stack them together, With film, you let the chemicals do their work with anything from 15min to a few hours depending on what your doingWhat do you mean they are different on time? do you mean exposure time?
That might work. It all depends on where you are taking photo's for it to balance. If the weights are in a position that will not effect the motor for the duration of your shot. Then you can use the old onesSaalocin Rekked;2617526I said:assume that by adding more little weights I can have the main counterweight closer to the scope and therefore out of the motors way.
Well you're limited to about 1 hour photo's then, But you can still get decent shots with that. Especially if your going planets and the like. DSO work best with big aperture anyway so it should not be a problem.Saalocin Rekked;2617526I said:align the main axis toward geographic South(declination taken into account) then I set the same axis's inclination to the same as my current geographic latitude and that should technically give me perfect alignment? how would I check? I was thinking a small piece of paper with a hole in it just big enough for the object that I am viewing, so that I can see if it shifts.
Plus this specific telescopes tracking was said by one user not to track accurately longer than an hour.
An illuminated eyepiece is an EP with lights on the inside that look like cross hairs on a rifle scope. Drift alignment is when you use this EP to closely watch a star in the middle of these lines and you make adjustments to your RA and DEC based on how the star drifts in the FOV. Best website I know of to explain it is http://www.petesastrophotography.com/ (Click on the drift alignment section) The whole website is actually brillent for any astro photographyWhat is a illuminated eyepiece?
what is drift aligning?
There are a few places that still stock slide film in SA. I was able to find Fuji Provia 400 in one store, But had to import my Kodak Ektachrome E200. Also had the problem of having to buy a whole box, so its cheaper to import. Especially since a box will last you about 6 years if you take photo's every night for next 6 years.I myself being into photography(antique's, Film only) found it nearly impossible to get good film unless I was willing to fork out for a box, but haven't even bothered trying in the last few years. I would only be able to use standard Cafe' film at first whilst testing cant I take multiple exposures and stack them after scanning? whats the shortest exposure I need to take for stacking purposes?
Depends on the webcam. You can download a PDF I made some time ago on how to do it here http://www.wakesa.com/Temp/LogitechQuickcamPro4000Conversion.pdfanyone know how to modify web cam for this type of imaging or maybe old B/W CCTV cameras?
Thanks Mercurial, tiss advice I give but rarely follow. I normally type as you wont lose your text unless you actually submit it whilst Internet is down(which down here at the moment is every 20min) so I type it up and copy it to my clipboard Ctrl+C, which temporarily saves it in case. murphy's law every time I forget Internet is downMaybe type up your posts in Word or notepad and save it. Then just copy and paste so that you always have the info in case you lose your Internet connection.
So being in the south pole you point south? I was pointing north and could never understand why things never worked well.![]()
They only can give you a rough alignment for two reasons.I do not understand why a good map and a compass cannot give me an exact polar alignment? geographic south and celestial south are the same also the height off of the horizon is also exactly that of ones exact latitude.
So being in the south pole you point south? I was pointing north and could never understand why things never worked well.![]()
ha ha, dont be swak we all make mistakes.Tell me your joking and I'm being slow today.
I would to right now actuallyFor photography you need to be spot on and tracking needs to be very good - that's why I recommend visual above astrophotgraphy!
Pete is a US ambassador, so he is all over the place. The important things though about drift alignment and his program to train are all workingAs always thanks for the input guys; I have been trying to browse that website but its unfortunately under construction so will have to wait a while.
You do get polar alignment scopes as well which fit into EQ mounts, But you would have to check with the manufacturer if there is one for your mount
but also that I don't have astrophoto capability which is fine since I'm totally visual observer at the moment.
Check the Pic I posted aboveBTW, there is a new version of Stellarium out.
Check the Pic I posted aboveNever had it installed on my Win7 machine so had to grab it last night to show the SCP.. Forgot to mention it though
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