The PC Build Thread

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I would be very surprised and confused if it was, but I would try it nonetheless.
I also assume you've updated the bios by now.

That leaves the physical motherboard...
Unless it's a specific PSU component, like the part that supplies the motherboard that's faulty. That sounds really unlikely though.

Try disabling as many MB features as you can and see if it helps?

Get load numbers for CPU, GPU, RAM, VRAM etc when running COD, then try to match or exceed them all at the same time with another game when trying the same steps.

Try full screen vs windowed vs windowed full screen.
Errors started on the F12 BIOS which was previously fine. Updated to the F13g, but errors persisted. Rolled back to F12 no change. On the latest F13 which came out yesterday, and still no luck.

Just tested with Chrome, and it died.
 
Okay cool thanks man, re: ram speeds, are you saying it would be better to go for the higher speed even if it doesnt run higher than 3200MHz?
I don't know much, but from what I learned it is not guaranteed for RAM to work at advertised speeds. Especially if the RAM stick is not listed for your motherboard. So paying a R150 more for the 3600 MHz RAM seems worth it. If you get full speed there is some benefit, if you only get 3200 MHz that is better than getting lower speed on 3200 RAM.
 
I don't know much, but from what I learned it is not guaranteed for RAM to work at advertised speeds. Especially if the RAM stick is not listed for your motherboard. So paying a R150 more for the 3600 MHz RAM seems worth it. If you get full speed there is some benefit, if you only get 3200 MHz that is better than getting lower speed on 3200 RAM.
Okay I understand. Might as well get more performance from the RGB lighting xD

With all of this in mind, would the 1600AF be better for overall gaming in this instance than say a 3300x (if I could even find one of those)?
 
Okay I understand. Might as well get more performance from the RGB lighting xD

With all of this in mind, would the 1600AF be better for overall gaming in this instance than say a 3300x (if I could even find one of those)?
No idea, but @ponder helped me out last year. The 1600AF was very good value back then for price/performance. Also depends what GPU you will be using if you are looking at gaming.
 
Ah okay thanks man. Its a 1070Ti that will be used
Random quick google shows the 1600AF will slightly bottleneck that GPU, but the 3300X won't.


You need to check for the resolution you will be running at etc.
 
I've worked in IT for almost 10 years, and built my own PCs for almost 20. Maybe that's why the first thing that didn't cross my mind should've been the most obvious one. I think I may have found the culprit:

20210714_115438.jpg
 
Ah okay thanks man. Its a 1070Ti that will be used

Playing at 1080p or 1440p?


Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILWi-KTKvZI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJKjWwwRE50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH7EWSs6Uls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBMOVYNJowk


Price wise they are similar, stock is the main thing.
 
Playing at 1080p or 1440p?


Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILWi-KTKvZI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJKjWwwRE50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH7EWSs6Uls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBMOVYNJowk


Price wise they are similar, stock is the main thing.
Would be 1080p (xceed 144hz)
 
The power cable is ****ed. I have to plug it into an extension/adapter because of space and distance to the wall socket. It's also wrapped with the monitor cable to keep it all tidy under my desk.

Anyway, I'm at that point where I need to make sure everything is as baseline as possible, so not wanting to unravel the binding I got a spare cable, shifted my PC around and plugged it directly into the wall socket. Played around for about 20mins doing everything that I'd previously done that restarted the PC. Nada.

Next, to eliminate it being the extension, I shifted the PC back to its original spot, and plugged the power cable into the extension. Same tests. No restart.

Only anomaly is the old power cable. Come to think of it I didn't replace it with the one that came with the PSU when I built the PC, so it's about 5 years old. But can't say I've experienced power cables dying before. Oh well!

Hopefully my woes are behind me now.
 
The power cable is ****ed. I have to plug it into an extension/adapter because of space and distance to the wall socket. It's also wrapped with the monitor cable to keep it all tidy under my desk.

Anyway, I'm at that point where I need to make sure everything is as baseline as possible, so not wanting to unravel the binding I got a spare cable, shifted my PC around and plugged it directly into the wall socket. Played around for about 20mins doing everything that I'd previously done that restarted the PC. Nada.

Next, to eliminate it being the extension, I shifted the PC back to its original spot, and plugged the power cable into the extension. Same tests. No restart.

Only anomaly is the old power cable. Come to think of it I didn't replace it with the one that came with the PSU when I built the PC, so it's about 5 years old. But can't say I've experienced power cables dying before. Oh well!

Hopefully my woes are behind me now.

Hopefully it's as simple as that, does sound weird though.
 
The power cable is ****ed. I have to plug it into an extension/adapter because of space and distance to the wall socket. It's also wrapped with the monitor cable to keep it all tidy under my desk.

Anyway, I'm at that point where I need to make sure everything is as baseline as possible, so not wanting to unravel the binding I got a spare cable, shifted my PC around and plugged it directly into the wall socket. Played around for about 20mins doing everything that I'd previously done that restarted the PC. Nada.

Next, to eliminate it being the extension, I shifted the PC back to its original spot, and plugged the power cable into the extension. Same tests. No restart.

Only anomaly is the old power cable. Come to think of it I didn't replace it with the one that came with the PSU when I built the PC, so it's about 5 years old. But can't say I've experienced power cables dying before. Oh well!

Hopefully my woes are behind me now.

So you bumped it in the same way every time when you reproduced it?
Or does the power usage spike during your repro steps?

Anyway, glad you found the culprit!
 
I've worked in IT for almost 10 years, and built my own PCs for almost 20. Maybe that's why the first thing that didn't cross my mind should've been the most obvious one. I think I may have found the culprit:

View attachment 1107508
Maybe because the plug doesn't have round prongs, so it didn't make contact properly in the wall socket

Seriously, try to put that old cord back and see if the problem re-appears. Maybe it has just vibrated out slightly?
 
I once troubleshooted a PC for days only to discover that the SATA data cable had been tied too tight with a cable tie (possibly causing some internal damage?)

Swapped out cable and 100% since then.
 
Maybe because the plug doesn't have round prongs, so it didn't make contact properly in the wall socket

Seriously, try to put that old cord back and see if the problem re-appears. Maybe it has just vibrated out slightly?
I removed and reinserted it multiple times when resetting the BIOS, so pretty sure it's toast. Also something that may be worthwhile checking out is the fact that all UK plugs have fuses. May be gone? Anyway, my spare/new cable seems to do the trick. Going strong since earlier.
 
I didn't want to start a new thread, so thought I would ask here. I was just looking at used PC's online. What's with the crazy high prices? I see used gaming PC's going for a few grand more than I build my son's new PC for a few years ago.
 
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I didn't want to start a new thread, so thought I would ask here. I was ideally looking at used PC's online. What's with the crazy high prices? I see used gaming PC's going for a few grand more than I build my son's new PC for a few years ago.
There's been this world-wide pandemic that's caused a lot of factories to close down for a few months here and there, there's also been a crypto drive which has sucked up a lot of resources. I'm waiting for simple things like racks and such as well.
 
Just checking if it's agreed that I'm making the right choice here:

Looking to upgrade from my RTX2060. Primarily used for VR racing. 90% of my game time is in Dirt Rally 2.0. with the Oculus Quest 2. I just want to increase fidelity a bit and stabilise FPS.

In my price range I can either afford a second hand RTX2070 or GTX1080-ti. Comparing the benchmarks it looks to me like the 1080ti will give me much better results. Unless I'm mistaken, I think the 4k performance is most important for VR. I'm not phased about Ray-Tracing and DLSS isn't supported in most VR games yet... maybe in a year or so it will be more common - at which time I can upgrade if I really want it.

RTX2070 vs RTX2060:

GTX1080-ti vs RTX2060:
 
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