Corsa B 2000 1.6is not starting

Darshur

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Hi guys, please assist as I have tried almost everything to get the car to start.

yesterday the car started up fine, but on the highway the car just switched off 3 times..after pulling over onto the yellow lane jumping out and fiddling with a few wires it starts up again..only to drive for a few more k's for it to switch off again. Now it does not start at all.

what I have done to try and resolve the problem thus far is:

changed the plugs and bogey cords.
changed the fuel filter.
ensured all of the cables are securely installed.
Battery is new

I have been told that it could be the crankshaft sensor but I haven't a clue where to locate it, the mechanic that tried to resolve the issue was lost for words..

if anyone can assist with a possible answer please do..
 
Pull one of the plug leads, stick a spark plug in it and ground the plug on the engine. Get someone to crank the engine for you and see if it sparks. If not, you could have either a faulty coil pack/ignitor, or a faulty crank angle sensor

From your description it sounds like the ignitor is breaking down as it heats up. I stock the coil and the crank sensor so let me know if you need them

Corsa Ignition Coils
http://www.sparxx.co.za/product_info.php?products_id=21802
http://www.sparxx.co.za/product_info.php?products_id=21816

Crank Angle Sensor
http://www.sparxx.co.za/product_info.php?products_id=27010
 
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If it is the crank angle sensor (CAS) the car wouldn't start, no matter what you do. Fuel injection and spark timing is DIRECTLY determined using the CAS, which determines the crank position, so if it's not working the engine will not run no matter what you do. The engine management doesn't know the engine is turning without that sensor.

Do the test Syrrano suggest (with the spark plugs), it is the best way to determine if the coil pack is at fault, don't however short the spark leads directly to ground, you *will* damage the coil pack (eg. use a spark plug as suggested).

If the CAS wiring is damaged then it is likely the CAS, otherwise I wouldn't bank on it being the CAS, those sensor are some of the most reliable sensors used in cars today.

To me it also sounds like the coil pack however. If you join the Opel Owners Forum (it's free just register), there is a guide on how to change the coil pack: http://www.opelownersforum.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=55783

Anyone can do it, it's incredibly easy to change and the cost will be significantly less than if you take it to GM (The total price will be around R3000 if done by GM).

@syrrano: Does the items you stock look exactly like that? Those look exactly like those sold by GM (OEM), are you indeed selling the OEM coil packs and are they brand new?
Also if you sell OEM parts at that price you should add yourself on the Opel Owners Forum, maybe provide some discount for users from that forum ;) I know many people come around asking about Coil Packs and such (much more than here).
 
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Does the orange engine warning light stay on? If so ECU is poked. Very common problem. Opel will want your babies. Rather pay R3k at Battery Centre.
 
where's rouxenator...this is right up his alley, i suggest you flood his inbox with questions regarding the brilliant opels
 
@gnome - Yes, they look exactly as shown in the pics. They are new aftermarket replacement coils with a one year guarantee. Same spec as the originals
 
Does the orange engine warning light stay on? If so ECU is poked. Very common problem. Opel will want your babies. Rather pay R3k at Battery Centre.

BS, I know Opels and work on them regularly, the ECU Opel use are either Bosch Motronic (Astra G and earlier) or Siemens Simtec (Corsa C and later) with the exception of the Corsa Lite which uses a locally made version of the Bosch Motronic.

Both Bosch and Siemens have an impeccable name in ECU business, used by MANY other auto makers (BMW, VW, Audi, etc.). They are reliable, I haven't seen a single ECU failure so far personally and on the Opel Owners forum I've seen very few peoples cars fixed after trying another ECU. The problem is the person making the wrong diagnosis and willy nilly replacing parts. ECU is the last thing that should be changed, they rarely have trouble.

And anyway how would battery center get your ECU working for 3K? Those ECUs are coded to the key of the car and to a specific engine, you not only need the specific ECU (IE. For a Corsa B 1.3 you need the Bosch Motronic 13NE ECU, for the 1.6 the 16SE ECU, etc.). Even if battery center had the device required to recode keys they'd still need the original ECUs which only GM supply. That or they get them secondhand, in which case R3K is a rip off (Opel ECUs generally go for between R 1000-2000 at the scrapyards)
 
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where's rouxenator...this is right up his alley, i suggest you flood his inbox with questions regarding the brilliant opels

Any car that is not serviced properly at the regular intervals by qualified mechanics will develop problems. Opels are not an exception to this.

On the topic of replacing ECUs in a Corsa B/Lite keep in mind the key has a transponder that the ignition barrel reads and passes on to the ECU which will not start the engine if the code read from the key is not correct. Replacing the key / barrel / ECU might lead to code mismatches and your Corsa still won't start.
 
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A long shot, but my 180iS Kadett did that after the mechanics replaced the engine - kept cutting out/dying, then after fiddling with some harnesses, it started again - turned out to be a loose grounding strap that some idiot at the dealership didn't tighten up - check them to see if any have worked loose... may be something as simple as this
 
BS, I know Opels and work on them regularly, the ECU Opel use are either Bosch Motronic (Astra G and earlier) or Siemens Simtec (Corsa C and later) with the exception of the Corsa Lite which uses a locally made version of the Bosch Motronic.

Both Bosch and Siemens have an impeccable name in ECU business, used by MANY other auto makers (BMW, VW, Audi, etc.). They are reliable, I haven't seen a single ECU failure so far personally and on the Opel Owners forum I've seen very few peoples cars fixed after trying another ECU. The problem is the person making the wrong diagnosis and willy nilly replacing parts. ECU is the last thing that should be changed, they rarely have trouble.

And anyway how would battery center get your ECU working for 3K? Those ECUs are coded to the key of the car and to a specific engine, you not only need the specific ECU (IE. For a Corsa B 1.3 you need the Bosch Motronic 13NE ECU, for the 1.6 the 16SE ECU, etc.). Even if battery center had the device required to recode keys they'd still need the original ECUs which only GM supply. That or they get them secondhand, in which case R3K is a rip off (Opel ECUs generally go for between R 1000-2000 at the scrapyards)


Knackered ECU was replaced with one of these. No new keys needed. http://www.dicktator.co.za/

Car runs like a dream now. Pulls better & fuel economy improved.
 
Knackered ECU was replaced with one of these. No new keys needed. http://www.dicktator.co.za/

Car runs like a dream now. Pulls better & fuel economy improved.

I've run dictator before on a Corsa. Not very good ECUs, but it's cheap (because it is locally made). Tuning makes a huge difference but the only standard cars I've driven that actually performed better on Dicktator where the old 80's Opels (Astra F), and only some of them.

It's rare for Dicktator to run more economic than standard ECU in any car because Dicktator uses N-Alpha fuel injection method. N-Alpha means the air going into the engine isn't measured, instead the engine is tuned according to throttle (IE. petrol pedal) position. Dicktator also lacks a knock sensor, which is significant because standard management uses the knock sensor to advance the ignition timing up to right before knock occurs which increases performance and fuel efficiency.

Opel engines all use either Speed Density method or Mass Flow method, both of which have more than double the sensors that Dicktator does and measure the volume of air entering the engine rather than rely solely on the throttle position. The reason N-Alpha is significantly less accurate is because air density varies depending on temperature, elevation and the amount of air flowing can also vary depending on how old the engine is, etc. (there are multitude of factors influencing air density). N-Alpha cannot compensate for any of those factors. Dicktator doesn't compare to even Bosch Motronic (Which is an old Bosch management system), forget the newer Siemens ECUs. N-Alpha isn't used by any OEM car manufacturers, the most common used is Mass Flow (the most accurate method which directly measures the amount of air flowing into the engine), that said Speed Density is already a HUGE improvement on N-Alpha.

Only aftermarket ECU that is cheap that comes close to Bosch Motronic is Mega Squirt (not sold locally and it is DIY) which can incorporate any of the fuel injection methods (N-Alpha, Speed Density or Mass Flow), knock sensors, sequential fuel injection, sequential spark, exhaust O2 measuring, etc. All of which are standard on modern cars, all of which isn't available to Dicktator users.

Only racing cars built for the track usually run N-Alpha, especially cars with individual throttle bodies because the air mass cannot be directly measured with ITBs.

Whetever you want to believe it or not, Dicktator doesn't compare to standard management. You can only go down in terms of efficiency, economy and power when moving away from standard except for a select few cars, all of whom are really old. Not to mention that if your car is stolen and insurance learns you are running Dicktator you won't be paid out (Dickatator has no security features, you don't even need to turn the key to start the car).

My advice being to the OP that even if it is the ECU, rather get another one from a scrapyard and recode the keys. Will cost around R1.2k- R2k for everything.
 
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How difficult is it to recode the keys? I know in the Astra G you need to turn the ignition to II then lock the doors upon which the car will self unlock and re-lock them to indicate the key has been recoded. Corsa B in SA does not have central locking so can you still do the recode yourself?

That's the good thing going with a non OEM ECU in this car, you don't have to worry about the transponder in the key since the ECU just ignores the code that the ignition barrel sends it. Although that does make stealing the car easier, should someone really want to do that.
 
How difficult is it to recode the keys? I know in the Astra G you need to turn the ignition to II then lock the doors upon which the car will self unlock and re-lock them to indicate the key has been recoded.

The Opel ECUs since the Corsa B are all tied to the key and transponder, and IIRC Astra G also tied to the engine. With the Corsa C and up the ECU is further tied to the speedometer.

How it works:
The key has a transponder chip in it and around the ignition barrel there is a receiver. The ECU is coded to the receiver and the chip in the key (which uses RFID). Add to that the Astra G also has a sensor on the crank (cannot be changed without opening up the engine) and the Corsa C and up have the speedometer tied in to prevent changing of the speedometer (which also coincidentally makes it quite a mission to change the ECU on those cars). All of these devices are specifically coded to the ECU, without the correct devices the ECU won't inject fuel or spark. So turning the engine or turning on the fuel pump makes no difference as the engine isn't getting petrol and isn't sparking (the two mayor functions that makes an engine run ;) ).

Usually the check engine light will flash if you have the incorrect key, and on some of the Opels the starter motor will still turn (to no avail).

I only know the recode procedure for the Corsa B & C:
There is a security code you get when you buy the car, it's in the car book and on it is written CAR PASS. The security code needed to recode the key is written on that. Without it you can't recode that specific ECU. To recode requires a Opel Tech 2. The Opel Tech 2 for example I heard costs something like 200 000 pounds in Britain or some such and they only sell them to recognized GM dealers.

There are some other tools but reading online not all of them work for all the ECUs from Opel. Still the security code is needed. Recoding to another key is simple if you have the security code. It's all software. I think GM charge 1 hour labor to do it (like R400).

If you don't have that security code, your only option is to change everything associated with the security system. On the Corsa B it's just the ECU, transponder chip and transponder receiver. Astra G it's that + crank id. Corsa C it's that + speedo. On the Astra H (Which includes Corsa D, later model Zafira, etc) they moved to a newer CANBUS system where every electrical component is coded. In that case, the radio, the speedometer, the engine, the ABS, the air bags, everything functions on the CANBUS and require the specific ECU they were coded to and the ECU is coded to them in turn.

This system is also used by other manufacturers naturally, hence the reason that STEALING a modern car is nearly impossible (Please note a Citi Golf isn't a modern car). It's much easier to tow and strip or hijack a modern car.

Corsa B isn't that safe for example, I have a ECU + it's transponder receiver and key chip glued to that receiver. Usually takes me around 10-15minutes to change out the ECU and everything and then the car will start with any key. I use it for testing purposes btw ;) But later models it starts getting very tricky. There aren't so far as I know any hacks or back doors on these systems (even the Corsa B there isn't a way around it), can't speak for other manufacturers tho but it wouldn't make sense to publish the info needed to bypass these systems as they are trying to sell a product.

Stealing a car with Dicktator in comparison requires only breaking the steering lock. Because Opel uses 60-2 timing wheel, I only really know the Dictator 60-2 but on that I could start the car within 1 minute (probably less) VS. normal Corsa B management (easiest to steal) in which I need to remove the kick panel, loosen the ECU, loosen the steering column covers. Then swap everything out, break the steering lock and rewire the ignition wires to start the car (with practice I think this could be done in about 10-15 minutes).

Everything Opel before the Corsa B have no proper security (Astra F and earlier, record, etc.), which means stealing them is nearly as easy as stealing a car with Dicktator.
 
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Wow, never knew they were that complicated! I was actually quite surprised when I traded in my Corsa Lite and the sales men asked me if I had both keys. I said yes and remarked that it should not be that expensive to replace the key on a Lite cause unlike the Astra G it does not have any electronics inside. The dealer just laughed and said if it only it were that easy, even Corsa B has a transponder. That's what got me interested in the security system and I read up about the transpoder chip + ignition barrel reader + ECU on some Vauxhall forum. Thanks for explaining it in a little more detail.

Just purely out of curiosity, when did Opel start using the system found in the Corsa B or was that the first car to feature it? You would not by any chance know what security system is used in Vectra A/Calibra (88-95) ? Not that I am planning to steal one - you don't many of them around.
 
Just purely out of curiosity, when did Opel start using the system found in the Corsa B or was that the first car to feature it? You would not by any chance know what security system is used in Vectra A/Calibra (88-95) ? Not that I am planning to steal one - you don't many of them around.

Not 100% sure because that car wasn't sold locally (was it?). Corsa B was the first Opel that all featured the security as far as I know (all models have this same security system). Corsa B was released in the UK what 1994/1993? So yeah wouldn't bank on cars before then having it but google Vauxhall forums or ask there.
 
Hi guys, I'm sorry for the insanely late reply but the issue was the fuel pump relay, it is located behind the right hand side footwell(drivers side)..

costs around R400 from GM and 300 for them to fit it in..damn rip offs!
 
Hi guys, I'm sorry for the insanely late reply but the issue was the fuel pump relay, it is located behind the right hand side footwell(drivers side)..

costs around R400 from GM and 300 for them to fit it in..damn rip offs!

That EXACT same relay is ~R180 from Goldwagen.
 
The Opel ECUs since the Corsa B are all tied to the key and transponder, and IIRC Astra G also tied to the engine. With the Corsa C and up the ECU is further tied to the speedometer.

How it works:
The key has a transponder chip in it and around the ignition barrel there is a receiver. The ECU is coded to the receiver and the chip in the key (which uses RFID). Add to that the Astra G also has a sensor on the crank (cannot be changed without opening up the engine) and the Corsa C and up have the speedometer tied in to prevent changing of the speedometer (which also coincidentally makes it quite a mission to change the ECU on those cars). All of these devices are specifically coded to the ECU, without the correct devices the ECU won't inject fuel or spark. So turning the engine or turning on the fuel pump makes no difference as the engine isn't getting petrol and isn't sparking (the two mayor functions that makes an engine run ;) ).

Usually the check engine light will flash if you have the incorrect key, and on some of the Opels the starter motor will still turn (to no avail).

I only know the recode procedure for the Corsa B & C:
There is a security code you get when you buy the car, it's in the car book and on it is written CAR PASS. The security code needed to recode the key is written on that. Without it you can't recode that specific ECU. To recode requires a Opel Tech 2. The Opel Tech 2 for example I heard costs something like 200 000 pounds in Britain or some such and they only sell them to recognized GM dealers.

There are some other tools but reading online not all of them work for all the ECUs from Opel. Still the security code is needed. Recoding to another key is simple if you have the security code. It's all software. I think GM charge 1 hour labor to do it (like R400).

If you don't have that security code, your only option is to change everything associated with the security system. On the Corsa B it's just the ECU, transponder chip and transponder receiver. Astra G it's that + crank id. Corsa C it's that + speedo. On the Astra H (Which includes Corsa D, later model Zafira, etc) they moved to a newer CANBUS system where every electrical component is coded. In that case, the radio, the speedometer, the engine, the ABS, the air bags, everything functions on the CANBUS and require the specific ECU they were coded to and the ECU is coded to them in turn.

This system is also used by other manufacturers naturally, hence the reason that STEALING a modern car is nearly impossible (Please note a Citi Golf isn't a modern car). It's much easier to tow and strip or hijack a modern car.

Corsa B isn't that safe for example, I have a ECU + it's transponder receiver and key chip glued to that receiver. Usually takes me around 10-15minutes to change out the ECU and everything and then the car will start with any key. I use it for testing purposes btw ;) But later models it starts getting very tricky. There aren't so far as I know any hacks or back doors on these systems (even the Corsa B there isn't a way around it), can't speak for other manufacturers tho but it wouldn't make sense to publish the info needed to bypass these systems as they are trying to sell a product.

Stealing a car with Dicktator in comparison requires only breaking the steering lock. Because Opel uses 60-2 timing wheel, I only really know the Dictator 60-2 but on that I could start the car within 1 minute (probably less) VS. normal Corsa B management (easiest to steal) in which I need to remove the kick panel, loosen the ECU, loosen the steering column covers. Then swap everything out, break the steering lock and rewire the ignition wires to start the car (with practice I think this could be done in about 10-15 minutes).

Everything Opel before the Corsa B have no proper security (Astra F and earlier, record, etc.), which means stealing them is nearly as easy as stealing a car with Dicktator.

Hi gnome. I have a 2004 opel astra executive and it was starting perfectly until one morning I got in and it just would not start! All it did was make a clicking noise. What could possibly be the cause of this and what could be done to resolve it???
 
Hi guys

I have 2004 corsa 1.4i which has a weird problem. On a hot day if the car is parked in the sun, it simply wouldn't hold an idle. It would start and just cut-off. When I rev it to hold an idle it makes a sound like its sucking air and cuts-off. Bt in cold weather and at night it starts perfectly. I'm having this problem for over a year nw and have taken da car to many mechanics ,some say its the knock sensors but I'm nt sure..
Any ideas as to what could be the cause of this or has anybody experienced this on their corsa?
 
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