The 200,000+ km thread

wingnut771 said:
The problem with french cars are they are imported, vw is manufactured locally but even the ones that arent there are sufficient numbers for parts to not be an issue, so parts are easy to get. I'm on 230k with no turbo issues. I think its people who dont change their oil that have turbo issues.
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Yup and that is going to be more of an issue with the Chinese cars, people are already seeing delays in parts.
Not all VW parts are built here, hence why my friend had to wait 9 months for his Audi's turbo and it wasn't even his fault, had to be replaced under warranty. They did give him a Polo to drive for 9 months.
 
Lupus said:
Yup and that is going to be more of an issue with the Chinese cars, people are already seeing delays in parts.
Not all VW parts are built here, hence why my friend had to wait 9 months for his Audi's turbo and it wasn't even his fault, had to be replaced under warranty. They did give him a Polo to drive for 9 months.
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My mom was lucky when her back window got smashed with her i10 and got the last glass in the whole country that took a few days to arrive.
 
wingnut771 said:
My mom was lucky when her back window got smashed with her i10 and got the last glass in the whole country that took a few days to arrive.
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The little back window? Turns out that is the most expensive one.
 
wingnut771 said:
No the one on the tailgate with demister.
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Oooh the back window ;-). Looking through this thread, back in 2012 I was still happy with the Polo, did have the power steering sorted out though, ah if only I knew back then what I know now.
Now I've yet to get a car close to 100k before getting a new one, my Cruze was just over at 103k I think, my Clio was short of 50k.
 
Lupus said:
Oooh the back window ;-). Looking through this thread, back in 2012 I was still happy with the Polo, did have the power steering sorted out though, ah if only I knew back then what I know now.
Now I've yet to get a car close to 100k before getting a new one, my Cruze was just over at 103k I think, my Clio was short of 50k.
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Was the power steering electric or hydraulic? The ones on the golf and Audi is electric.
 
wingnut771 said:
Was the power steering electric or hydraulic? The ones on the golf and Audi is electric.
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Polos were electrohydraulic if I remember correctly. They have that distinctive whine.

Audis were hydraulic till 2013.

All cars have issues ,people that go around saying they never had an issue either ignored or didn't even know they had a issue or someone at the dealer fixed it.

There's no complex mechanical thing that will run forever.

What matters is after sales service. How quickly and easy is it to get it fixed.

Something I have noticed with Audi's, is if they german made you have less crap with them.
 
Missed the opportunity to post a pic of the 200 000 km event of my dad's car, but here she is at 300 000 km.
20260404_191309.jpg

2009 VW Polo 1.9 TDI (74 kW version)

Original clutch, gearbox, and all engine components (except the vacuum distribution box). Not the best economy in this photo, but it was in town 😁
 
wingnut771 said:
Did you replace the gearbox oil before it destroyed itself?
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Nope, I suspect the box had taken a knock before hand, I bought the car second hand. It had a noisy diff from the word go.

Lost 5th outside Heideberg on the way to Durban. I kept on driving as I had a appointment to make, drove back like that, horrendous noise coming from the box. Removed the box and opened it up, the syncros had seized onto the shaft. Went and got a second hand box for R 5500.00, recon it would have cost way more to fix the original box.

Much better cat to drive now. The 2.0 box has a short 1st and 2nd and long 3rd, 4th and 5th, overtaking was always a nightmare. The 1.9 box is the has a long 1st and 2nd and short 3rd 4th and 5th. Better acceleration from standstill and more power overtaking. Fuel consumption not as great as before.
 
Finally made it onto the thread
my 3rd only car to get to over 200Kkm
1st 1995 Honda Ballade 150i - I think about 210 000 before selling it
2nd E46 320i 289 000km traded that in for the GTI 7

Now its the turn of the:
2016 A6 3.0TDi slightly more than 200K did a quick Dbn run over the weekend

Servicing
Oil Change every 6 months - Liqui moly 5W40 Mann oil Filter and Air Filter
The usual - brake pads, brake disc, fluid change
Glow plugs changed at 160 000Km Bosch
Gearbox oil change without flushing

Issues - stupid Adblue systems only (line kept leaking at joints)

Work Done
Adblue - Deleted
DPF-Deleted
Cat-Deleted
Stage 1 ECU remapped
4 new tyres - old set made it 100K kms
alignment every 10 000kms
Thought I needed a battery change but turns out both the poles were not fastened - fastened it and had it tested back to 800CCA
Few mods via OBDEleven - cluster sweep, video media speed limiter removed, programmed fog lights to work as turning lights, unlocked Lap Timer on instrument cluster ( only reason was to see what oil temp is at)

Planned Work
redo the window tints darker - its at 50% I think I want to go to 35% - you can feel the sun through it
continue servicing every 6 months oil change
think I want to get the shocks tested , doesnt seem like an issue and no leaks but 10 years of carrying around 2300Kgs I am sure they are on the way out

I had my DPF and my CAT gutted so free flow all the way into the rear silencer, has that hollow tinnish noise , wondering if I should get a downpipe and a straight piece to the rear box take out the DPF and CAT housing, whats your thoughts ?

AUDI A6 3.0TDi.png
 
Nithan15 said:
Finally made it onto the thread
my 3rd only car to get to over 200Kkm
1st 1995 Honda Ballade 150i - I think about 210 000 before selling it
2nd E46 320i 289 000km traded that in for the GTI 7

Now its the turn of the:
2016 A6 3.0TDi slightly more than 200K did a quick Dbn run over the weekend

Servicing
Oil Change every 6 months - Liqui moly 5W40 Mann oil Filter and Air Filter
The usual - brake pads, brake disc, fluid change
Glow plugs changed at 160 000Km Bosch
Gearbox oil change without flushing

Issues - stupid Adblue systems only (line kept leaking at joints)

Work Done
Adblue - Deleted
DPF-Deleted
Cat-Deleted
Stage 1 ECU remapped
4 new tyres - old set made it 100K kms
alignment every 10 000kms
Thought I needed a battery change but turns out both the poles were not fastened - fastened it and had it tested back to 800CCA
Few mods via OBDEleven - cluster sweep, video media speed limiter removed, programmed fog lights to work as turning lights, unlocked Lap Timer on instrument cluster ( only reason was to see what oil temp is at)

Planned Work
redo the window tints darker - its at 50% I think I want to go to 35% - you can feel the sun through it
continue servicing every 6 months oil change
think I want to get the shocks tested , doesnt seem like an issue and no leaks but 10 years of carrying around 2300Kgs I am sure they are on the way out

I had my DPF and my CAT gutted so free flow all the way into the rear silencer, has that hollow tinnish noise , wondering if I should get a downpipe and a straight piece to the rear box take out the DPF and CAT housing, whats your thoughts ?

View attachment 1918681
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My A4 3.0tdi felt and handled fine but a shock or 2 had some sweat. Replaced all 4 with monroes, now there is a lot more bump and thump. What a waste of money. Why not 5W30 as per the spec?
 
wingnut771 said:
My A4 3.0tdi felt and handled fine but a shock or 2 had some sweat. Replaced all 4 with monroes, now there is a lot more bump and thump. What a waste of money. Why not 5W30 as per the spec?
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I used to use 5W30 , fuel efficiency was better but the 5W40, I see handles heat better and does not get as hot as the 5W30. I also noticed since using the 5W40 the chain rattle o start up is now quieter and I only get the rattle maybe once every 6-7 start ups most times its starts up silently. just my observation i have no scientific data to back it up.

The car was on the alignment bay and I did a walk around under and all 4 shocks are dry .
 
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