Aftermath of renovations:- How do I?

Zoomzoom

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How do I:

  1. Clean Plascon Polvin PVA from copper pipes safely and effectively?
  2. Clean Plascon Polvin PVA from matt floor tiles which are also black?
  3. Clean residue from installation of new windows from the glass? There is some kind of sticky glue type substance on the windows.
  4. Clean residue from new putty from glass?

Thanks.

Oh and where can I find a copper coloured flexible hose that I can attach / push onto a 15mm copper pipe to direct the water. Due to various considerations (like future replacement of the sink with a single butler sink) I have my tap spout positioned in the middle of the double sink and I need to put a hose on the end to direct the water to either side. I have a piece of ordinary garden hose on there at the moment, but green hose isn't very attractive.
 

stricken

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You need to snap on your stokies and take a trip to builders or chamberlains. There you will find a whole aisle dedicated to things that clean s**t off of other things.
 

Beachless

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For the windows one of those stanley blade scrapers and some methalated spirits. For the pipes you can use paint stripper. For the tap you can find all sorts of fittings and pipes at a hardware store.
Just go to one and ask to be assisted.
 

Zoomzoom

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For the tap you can find all sorts of fittings and pipes at a hardware store.
Just go to one and ask to be assisted.

We have, we got blank looks. No lateral thinking. Or thinking, now that I think about it.
 

Zoomzoom

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You need to snap on your stokies and take a trip to builders or chamberlains. There you will find a whole aisle dedicated to things that clean s**t off of other things.

Yes... at a price ... and it helps if you know what you are looking for, besides there are a lot of DIY type solutions that work better than a bottle of expensive made-to-purpose cleaner.

Turps will clean pva.

Thanks! I have plenty of turps for the floors.
 

howardb

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Clean residue from installation of new windows from the glass? There is some kind of sticky glue type substance on the windows.

I usually use Q20/WD40 for this - squirt some on a piece of paper towel and rub gently; the sticky residue comes right off. Also works on all pricing/sticky labels that refuse to come off in one piece - doesn't damage the metal/plastic/etc and doesn't leave scratches.
 

Zoomzoom

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I usually use Q20/WD40 for this - squirt some on a piece of paper towel and rub gently; the sticky residue comes right off. Also works on all pricing/sticky labels that refuse to come off in one piece - doesn't damage the metal/plastic/etc and doesn't leave scratches.

I will try, although that is a rather expensive solution to the problem. And how do you then get the Q20 off the window?


*****************

Turps does not clean paint off the pipes I'm afraid. Any other suggestions?
 

Zarkon

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You get this yellow scraper,with a stanley style blade in it,which you can replace. It works perfect on windows,used it before for putty and paint on windows.

Copper pipes,why? Is it exposed in the kitchen for a look? Get some laquer thinners,works better than normal thinners

Pva is water based paint,so u can clean the tiles with some hot water and a scraper,done it before and works.
 

Venomous

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sugar soap will work for most of the cleaning you want to do...


and steelwool.



use rubber gloves, its harsh on even tough skin.
 

Zoomzoom

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You get this yellow scraper,with a stanley style blade in it,which you can replace. It works perfect on windows,used it before for putty and paint on windows.

Copper pipes,why? Is it exposed in the kitchen for a look? Get some laquer thinners,works better than normal thinners

Pva is water based paint,so u can clean the tiles with some hot water and a scraper,done it before and works.

Yes it is exposed copper pipe in the kitchen and bathroom. Why else would I fuss about paint on the piping (or install copper piping for that matter). I'm being very cautious about it as apparently the copper is just a layer on the pipe for appearances sake, and comes off if you scrub too enthusiastically.
 

Zoomzoom

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sugar soap will work for most of the cleaning you want to do...


and steelwool.



use rubber gloves, its harsh on even tough skin.


Astonishingly sugar soap says right there on the packet - Will not remove paint :)

Yes learnt the lesson about steel wool - hands not so much, but finger tips are rather painful.
 

Zoomzoom

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Still haven't managed to clean the paint off the copper pipes or the glue (?) off the windows, but have another question - between them the builder and electrician left a round join in the electrical piping inset in the wall unfinished.

It's a join where one conduit (in the wall) branches off to the light switch while the rest goes down to the plug. The builder didn't finish/close it because the electrician left the cover off. The electrician put the cover on, but the builder forgot. I'm not calling him back for a job I can do myself. Can I close it entirely or does it need to be accessible? It's recessed about 1" into the wall.
 

ToxicBunny

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Still haven't managed to clean the paint off the copper pipes or the glue (?) off the windows, but have another question - between them the builder and electrician left a round join in the electrical piping inset in the wall unfinished.

It's a join where one conduit (in the wall) branches off to the light switch while the rest goes down to the plug. The builder didn't finish/close it because the electrician left the cover off. The electrician put the cover on, but the builder forgot. I'm not calling him back for a job I can do myself. Can I close it entirely or does it need to be accessible? It's recessed about 1" into the wall.

Are you talking something like this :

HTB1jv6MHXXXXXX9XXXXq6xXFXXXC.jpg

If so, then no you really shouldn't cover it up... the electrical work should have been done better with correct joints and conduiting.
 

Zoomzoom

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Are you talking something like this :

View attachment 398692

If so, then no you really shouldn't cover it up... the electrical work should have been done better with correct joints and conduiting.

Yes it's exactly like that. OK no problem I will finish it off so it can be accessed then. Not sure what you mean by correct joints. Is this not a correct joint? The only problem I see is that the builder didn't finish it off neatly.
 

ToxicBunny

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Yes it's exactly like that. OK no problem I will finish it off so it can be accessed then. Not sure what you mean by correct joints. Is this not a correct joint? The only problem I see is that the builder didn't finish it off neatly.

Those things are not designed to be buried in the wall, and shouldn't have been used.
 

Zoomzoom

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Those things are not designed to be buried in the wall, and shouldn't have been used.

It isn't buried in the wall. It is exposed. But where it is exposed it is not finished. I was asking if I should close the hole, or finish the edge.

FYI I have an old Karoo huisie with 40cm thick walls.
 
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