All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

[RonSwanson]

I was watching the display panel when they were turning various appliances on, the load never exceeded 4 kVA.

I am aware of the 0.5C limitation and will probably add a 3rd battery in time.

Remember that the 4800W / 100A limitation is at the batteries. You still have cabling losses (hopefully they are thick enough) and then conversion losses on the inverter. Take a look at your stats on how much load was being presented to the inverter, as well as the battery discharge rate.

 

[Speedster]

I have a recently installed 8kVA Deye inverter with 2x Pylontech UP5000 batteries for a total of 10kWh storage as a load shedding solution. No solar panels yet because it is a rental property.

The wife and daughter have already managed to trip the inverter a few times. The Deye then shows error F56 which is DC busbar voltage too low.

What causes this fault and how can I rectify the problem? Switching the inverter off and back on resets everything back to normal but I am curious how to avoid the tripping.

Just to confirm, did these trips occur during loadshedding?

 

[Blue Shirt]

Just to confirm, did these trips occur during loadshedding?

Yep

 

[Mzezman]

Yep

What is the discharge amps set on the inverter?

 

[B-1]

Any online solar panel stores that you guy’s highly suggest?
So far I’ve gone through:
Solar advice
Power Forum store

Bought my panels from solar advice and picked them up from their midrand warehouse. Everything went smoothly.

 

[Speedster]

Yep

Set the battery max discharge rate to 4800W / 100A

 

[Blue Shirt]

What is the discharge amps set on the inverter?

185A

 

[RonSwanson]

Any online solar panel stores that you guy’s highly suggest?
So far I’ve gone through:
Solar advice
Power Forum store

All fresh out. I haven't seen this as bad in a long time, nothing over 200W available. Segen has some coming in first two weeks of Feb, a tickle of Seraphims, and some more in March. If you want Canadians, you'll have to wait until end March. JA Solar has a trickle arriving 14 Feb, under 400W. Some bigger ones on 24 Feb and then again in March.

 

[RonSwanson]

50A

Set it to 100A.

 

[Blue Shirt]

Set it to 100A.

I edited my post, it was set at 185A by the installer.
The user manual says each battery can sustain a peak discharge current of 90A for 60 seconds.

 

[RonSwanson]

I edited my post, it was set at 185A by the installer.
The user manual says each battery can sustain a peak discharge current of 90A for 60 seconds.

15s.
For two batteries in parallel, set it to 100A.

 

[RonSwanson]

If you doubt what I say, ask the BMS. Post a pic of your LiBMS screen.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Its pretty confusing so I'm just going to post my settings below and explain how it works.
Most of my output is on "Load" I have a geyser and plug on "non essential".

The system one screen I'm sure you are OK with at this point:

View attachment 1464027

The system 2 screen is as follows:

View attachment 1464029

Based on above during non loadshedding both "load" and "non essentials" are powered by a blend of solar, battery and grid until the battery SOC reaches my system1 preset. After that they will both power from solar and grid.

If there is loadshedding then "non essentials" is off and only "Load" is powered by solar and battery.


The 0w in "inverter power limiter" prevents power from going past the CT coil in this specific config. It has a different purpose in other configurations.

"Priority load" means "Load" gets PV power before the battery or grid (this seems to be best in most scenarios)

To confuse you further there is another input/output called aux/generator. Apparently this is smarter and has more adjustability but info is scarce and I don't use it.

Why the 100% in that particular one hour slot?

You are basically saying top it up to 100% from the grid it solar didn’t already do it for you and especially that late in the afternoon you are likely burn a lot of power as it dips from 100% down to 95% and back up again constantly.

 

[SauRoNZA]

We, too have joined the cool kids club. Still trying to figure out what works for us. They initially installed the wrong inverter and after they came to replace it the app now doesn't work and we have to wait three weeks to have the gateway reset View attachment 1463809View attachment 1463811

100% values during daylight make no sense.

Let the solar do the work for you.

Those values are how low it is allowed to discharge, which means you’ve set it to allow no discharge at all and also enabled grid which means you’ll burn Eskom power for no good reason.

 

[AchmatK]

Why the 100% in that particular one hour slot?

You are basically saying top it up to 100% from the grid it solar didn’t already do it for you and especially that late in the afternoon you are likely burn a lot of power as it dips from 100% down to 95% and back up again constantly.

It will not use battery during that hour if grid charge is ticked so it will not drop down to 95%.

With grid charge ticked its the minimum it will let the battery go down to or it will use the grid to charge to that level.

 

[superskully]

Battery took an 18% dip during loadshedding, it's been charging for 4 hours now and still sitting at 98% even after the reset (on the hubble)

Will see what it does on the next loadshedding and charge cycle.

Cycles.. how do you see how many you've done? If it's even possible on this setup

So my Hubble’s do the same and it’s software issues. Hubble gave me a cloudlink for free and resolved all issues. Seems you need the cloudlink

 

[SauRoNZA]

It will not use battery during that hour if grid charge is ticked so it will not drop down to 95%.

With grid charge ticked its the minimum it will let the battery go down to or it will use the grid to charge to that level.

Fair point. I mean it’s when it would have dipped as Solar alone can’t support it.

Either way setting it to 100% will mean you are using Eskom to provide power beyond what your solar is offering which will be dipping hard them.

Which means it costs you more money and you aren’t using the very expensive batteries you already paid a fortune for.

 

[SauRoNZA]

I edited my post, it was set at 185A by the installer.
The user manual says each battery can sustain a peak discharge current of 90A for 60 seconds.

How to kill a battery in less than a year.

Go with what Ron says, your installer is clueless.

 

[Blue Shirt]

If you doubt what I say, ask the BMS. Post a pic of your LiBMS screen.

I don't doubt you, just saying this is how the installer set up the system.

 

[SauRoNZA]

UP5000s are 0.5C batteries, so two in parallel will only allow a discharge rate of around 4800W. Restrict your loads to under that when running on battery, or get another one for 3 in parallel.
And kick the backside of the salesperson that sold it to you without telling you of this limitation.

Shouldn’t it be an over current alarm then?

F56 is what happens on the Dyness when they hit their internal 15% SOC self protection threshold and the BMS turns them off, but I guess from the Inverter point of view that would trigger a voltage loss as the batteries basically go away.

They stated SOC at 90% though. But could also confuse time of day setting I guess.