All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Mzezman said:
What are your charge amps set to for your battery?
Click to expand...

Is that the "Max A Charge" setting? If so - its currently on 150A (4x Hubble AM2 batteries)

(although - wouldn't that have the same effect on solar and grid charging?)
 
Willie Trombone said:
From that document, this is news to me:

The inverter feeds the essential items via it’s load connection. The essential items need to be
protected by an earth leakage. This earth leakage is an additional item to the earth leakage serving
the non-essential loads. It therefore needs to have its own neutral bar hence the term, split neutrals.
All works well until the grid supply is lost and the inverter takes over. The earth neutral bond is lost
and the inverter is left to “float”. Measurements can be made between the output live and earth and
also neutral and earth which can be in the range of 115 volts each.
In South Africa the norm is to permanently bond the earth and neutral of the inverters output. It
presents an earth infrastructure much like that of the utility supply (TN-C-S). This is why the
inverter is not protected by an upstream earth leakage, the permanent bond would cause the
upstream earth leakage to trip.
This situation has been accepted and part of the wiring regulations. Many still argue the fact but this
is how it is done in South Africa. Other countries may be different.

For the sake of the alternative method of creating the NE bond during load shedding here is the
circuit. A normally closed contact of a contactor is used to create the NE bond during power
failures. The power to the contactor coil simply falls away. The contactor is controlled by the
islanding mode signal setting in the software with the coil wired to the appropriate pins.
This method is not used in South Africa. Those systems already implementing such a solution are
gradually being updated to a permanent bond (See previous page).
This system is also most likely the cause of “nuisance tripping” during load shedding switching but
that is just a guess at this moment in time. Note too the usual “points of failure”.


So he's saying that the earth - neutral bonding relay is not used in SA anymore?
I heard from my local lekkie that they often bond on-site to guarantee bonding... is there no potential issue with not having your inverter on common ground or am I completely misunderstanding this issue?

Is that legit?
Click to expand...

I can tell you from very recent first hand experience, the earth neutral bond is needed, we sorted out our earth leakage CB last week and the very first load shedding slot it tripped. So we installed a contactor to bond the earth and neutral and haven't had an issue since (*touches wood*)...
 
xrapidx said:
Is solar-assistant going to be my best bet for changing the programming remotely on a Deye inverter? I'd like to look at getting it done before winter.

Today we have a four hour load shedding slot startingb at 10am - and virtually no sun - and then the batteries are at 40% - so I'd ideally like to take that all into consideration via home-asssitant and kick off grid charging.

Also - is there a setting that controls how much power can be pulled from the grid? I've manually set the work mode to grid charge, and set the batteries to 100% - but its charging a lot slower than it would from solar. (3000w and 2000w going to batteries)
Click to expand...
There are 3 different charge settings you can specify for charging from solar, grid and generator.
I have my solar charge on 60a
Grid charge on 40a
Generator charge will probably be 50a

Check the battery charge page. You can set all 3 there if you tick grid and generator charge, or whatever combo you select.
 
Fcon_Vpro said:
There are 3 different charge settings you can specify for charging from solar, grid and generator.
I have my solar charge on 60a
Grid charge on 40a
Generator charge will probably be 50a

Check the battery charge page. You can set all 3 there if you tick grid and generator charge, or whatever combo you select.
Click to expand...

Gonna go look shortly - it seems to be limited to 2000w... where yesterday of solar it was charging at 6000w.
 
xrapidx said:
Gonna go look shortly - it seems to be limited to 2000w... where yesterday of solar it was charging at 6000w.
Click to expand...
Apologies the solar charge is on the battery type page/tab but the grid/gen charge should definitely be where I said it is.
My inverter is all the way in the garage and the app settings dont always match up to the screens so having to look online to give advice.
 
Fcon_Vpro said:
Apologies the solar charge is on the battery type page/tab but the grid/gen charge should definitely be where I said it is.
My inverter is all the way in the garage and the app settings dont always match up to the screens so having to look online to give advice.
Click to expand...
I think this is the screen he's looking for.
20230220_094515.jpg
 
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Speedster said:
I think this is the screen he's looking for. View attachment 1479233
Click to expand...
This is mine.
6ee01ed427c99c5c0a474d954ff5a601.jpg
 
Speedster said:
40A at 48V is just short of 2kW. Up the grid charge side to what you want it to be.
Click to expand...
That makes more sense, I was working it out at 220v... Couldn't figure out why it was a problem.

What would a safe level be? I mean if solar was doing it at 6kW - is there any reason grid charge shouldnt?
 
xrapidx said:
That makes more sense, I was working it out at 220v... Couldn't figure out why it was a problem.

What would a safe level be? I mean if solar was doing it at 6kW - is there any reason grid charge shouldnt?
Click to expand...
Depending on your battery setup, you could comfortably go to at least 0.5C. So if you have 100Ah battery, then 50A etc.
 
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Willie Trombone said:
So the past two days I've done a manual test. I've run my 300l geyser on a timer. On at 3, off at 4. It stays off the rest of the day.
It was piping hot this morning and I'm expecting the same tomorrow. No doubt summer is partly to thank, but that 300l is overkill for two of us in the house. That'll be different no doubt when we have family visiting, but my decision to go 2x 150l geysers that I can wall mount vs this 300 that needs the blessing of engineers and ridiculous SANS requirements just to mount... no thanks. The nice thing is I can mount them close to the points they service, on opposite sides of the house. Less plumbing too since we don't have to throw hot water 7m up then 10 m across to reach the opposite end of the home.
Click to expand...
What size element does 300L use? 6kw?
 
Willie Trombone said:
So the past two days I've done a manual test. I've run my 300l geyser on a timer. On at 3, off at 4. It stays off the rest of the day.
It was piping hot this morning and I'm expecting the same tomorrow. No doubt summer is partly to thank, but that 300l is overkill for two of us in the house. That'll be different no doubt when we have family visiting, but my decision to go 2x 150l geysers that I can wall mount vs this 300 that needs the blessing of engineers and ridiculous SANS requirements just to mount... no thanks. The nice thing is I can mount them close to the points they service, on opposite sides of the house. Less plumbing too since we don't have to throw hot water 7m up then 10 m across to reach the opposite end of the home.
Click to expand...

But why waste money on fitting something new when one already exists?

Never going to get that back.
 
xrapidx said:
Is solar-assistant going to be my best bet for changing the programming remotely on a Deye inverter? I'd like to look at getting it done before winter.

Today we have a four hour load shedding slot startingb at 10am - and virtually no sun - and then the batteries are at 40% - so I'd ideally like to take that all into consideration via home-asssitant and kick off grid charging.

Also - is there a setting that controls how much power can be pulled from the grid? I've manually set the work mode to grid charge, and set the batteries to 100% - but its charging a lot slower than it would from solar. (3000w and 2000w going to batteries)
Click to expand...
Yep, I've automated my Sunsynk to adjust the settings before loadshedding via SolarAssistant and MQTT. I think it was earlier in this thread. I called it "vampire mode" -- suck as much energy to get the batteries charged as possible, if it was a bad solar day.

SolarAssistant and HomeAsssitant makes this relatively simple, with automations. And yes, you can also set the maximum charge current based on prevailing conditions.

Basically, you read bridge data from SolarAssistant into HomeAssistant via MQTT., and you can then send settings from HomeAssistant to SolarAsistant via MQTT, which then adjusts your work mode setttings, and others.
 
Speedster said:
Depending on your battery setup, you could comfortably go to at least 0.5C. So if you have 100Ah battery, then 50A etc.
Click to expand...
The batteries will still tell the sunsynk about their maximum charge capabilities, so it should be safe. I have HA and SA setup in a way that it won't overload my gennie when it's charging off gennnie, but when it's grid, go balls to the wall.
 
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