All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

[JohnJuniorV3]

Normal RJ45 cable should work too. Only two pins are used but it's a straight crimp, just set the battery up as per the link I sent earlier.

*Edit* here https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/sunsynk

Not sure if you need to reboot after changing those settings. I don't think so

Everything is setup as per the guide, dip switches and all. Simply won’t connect to the inverter. Are we sure a normal 8 pin crimp setup will work? I see at the bottom of the website they say not to use all 8 pins as the battery won’t communicate?

 

[JohnJuniorV3]

That looks correct you don't have to change anything there.

What does your Li BMS screen under settings say?

Nothing is being reported.

 

[B-1]

Nothing is being reported.

That cable looks exactly like my sunsynk one so I would leave it alone unless you tried everything else.

All you should need to do is:
turn off the inverter and battery

set the the dip switches on battery for master and slave according to manual

Connect cable to CAN on both sides

Set battery screen to lithium and CAN

Switch on inverter and then battery

It should configure the rest from there and show up on the LI-BMS screen.

 

[JohnJuniorV3]

That cable looks exactly like my sunsynk one so I would leave it alone unless you tried everything else.

All you should need to do is:
turn off the inverter and battery

set the the dip switches on battery for master and slave according to manual

Connect cable to CAN on both sides

Set battery screen to lithium and CAN

Switch on inverter and then battery

It should configure the rest from there and show up on the LI-BMS screen.

Yes I see now, the diagram provided by @Willie Trombone is for the Cloudlink BMS device.

I’ll give this a go. There isn’t an option in the Deye inverter settings for CAN, but you can select the lithium option.

 

[RonSwanson]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is BMS comms exactly?

The battery's BMS basically runs the inverter's charger. It dictates at what rate it can be charged and discharged, and protects the battery cells from overcharge, undercharge, overcurrent, and it will even issue an instruction the inverter's charger to charge it when its SoC is too low. "Thou shalt charge me now!". I kid you not, the BMS is THE authority when it comes to anything to do with the battery.
Not having comms with the inverter means that the inverter guesses the SoC of the battery using voltage, which can be affected by cable length and thickness and is already quite difficult to do considering Lithium battery's flat voltage charge curve. So you lose a lot of efficiency, and in some instances you can actually cause significant damage to a Lithium battery when you don't have BMS comms. It is also something that the supplier will check on when honouring the warranty of a Lithium battery.

 

[JohnJuniorV3]

That cable looks exactly like my sunsynk one so I would leave it alone unless you tried everything else.

All you should need to do is:
turn off the inverter and battery

set the the dip switches on battery for master and slave according to manual

Connect cable to CAN on both sides

Set battery screen to lithium and CAN

Switch on inverter and then battery

It should configure the rest from there and show up on the LI-BMS screen.

I attempted this and was unsuccessful

It's the same cable as per the article I linked.

Hubble Lithium | Deye Inverter Guide

The Deye inverters are compatible with the full range of Hubble batteries as well as our Cloudlink battery monitoring device. The inverter guide shows the correct battery settings and cable connections.

www.hubblelithium.co.za

"The Hubble Lithium BMS pinouts are the same as the Cloudlink CAN pinouts."

I’m going to go your route as soon as I can crimp a cable.

Thanks for all your help guys!

 

[FlashSA]

Do you have panels?
Even if you have no panels, then you should still run your battery down to 25-30% on a weekly basis, it's what Hubble recommends.

Your Shutdown and Low Batt Alarm are both set to 20%, that's kinda wrong. You need to decide how low you want to run your batteries, I take both my 3 Hubbles and Pylontech US3000s down to 20%. Once you have decided, then set Shutdown and Alarm to a comfortable level. Typically you would want your alarm to signal and warn you that shutdown is imminent, so it needs to 5-10% higher than Shutdown.

Ron, I would like to read up more on this, links? My batteries are set to only go down to 50% from 9:30pm until the sun starts charging them in the morning. I am keen to go down further so that I can generate more in the day and save more / reduce overnight electricity purchasing, but I am nervous as I don't want to degrade the Hubbles and shorten their lives. My head keeps reminding me 10-15yrs is a very long time to eek out of them :-/

 

[RonSwanson]

Ron, I would like to read up more on this, links? My batteries are set to only go down to 50% from 9:30pm until the sun starts charging them in the morning. I am keen to go down further so that I can generate more in the day and save more / reduce overnight electricity purchasing, but I am nervous as I don't want to degrade the Hubbles and shorten their lives. My head keeps reminding me 10-15yrs is a very long time to eek out of them :-/

We were all like that in the beginning. Start by reading your battery's warranty, including the fine print. Lithium batteries love to work, and hate to be at 100% and at 0%, it shortens their lifespan. It's also why they are shipped at 50%. It's not lead acid.

Use it, you paid for it, don't feel guilty.

Edit: some good links

BU-808: How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries

Manufacturers take a conservative approach and specify the life of Li-ion in most consumer products as being between 300 and 500 discharge/charge cycles.…

batteryuniversity.com

BU-808b: What Causes Li-ion to Die?

BU meta description needed...

batteryuniversity.com

BU-809: How to Maximize Runtime

BU meta description needed...

batteryuniversity.com

 

[JohnJuniorV3]

It's the same cable as per the article I linked.

Hubble Lithium | Deye Inverter Guide

The Deye inverters are compatible with the full range of Hubble batteries as well as our Cloudlink battery monitoring device. The inverter guide shows the correct battery settings and cable connections.

www.hubblelithium.co.za

"The Hubble Lithium BMS pinouts are the same as the Cloudlink CAN pinouts."

Okay so crimped it and double checked the dip switches were correct and still no BMS communication.
I’m out of ideas.
Could this be firmware related? I see my Deye is version 3381.

You wonderful people! I double check my crimp to one find that the cable was loosely plugged into the CAN port on the inverter. BMS is up and running Thank you @Willie Trombone

 

[SauRoNZA]

I’m going to guess you can’t parallel a 5kW Sunsynk to an 8kW right?

You’d have to feed it in from the generator side if you wanted to do something like that?

Considering my upgrade path for East and West additions later in this year and realising that going for 2 x 5kW in parallel may have made more sense considering there would be 4 x MPPT’s.

 

[Fcon_Vpro]

I’m going to guess you can’t parallel a 5kW Sunsynk to an 8kW right?

You’d have to feed it in from the generator side if you wanted to do something like that?

Considering my upgrade path for East and West additions later in this year and realising that going for 2 x 5kW in parallel may have made more sense considering there would be 4 x MPPT’s.

Yip generator/aux side... but then 5kw sunsynk would be overkill and you could look at a cheaper inverter to just provide power and a good mppt for your additional requirements.
Not sure how the pass through works via aux port.

 

[B-1]

I’m going to guess you can’t parallel a 5kW Sunsynk to an 8kW right?

You’d have to feed it in from the generator side if you wanted to do something like that?

Considering my upgrade path for East and West additions later in this year and realising that going for 2 x 5kW in parallel may have made more sense considering there would be 4 x MPPT’s.

Do you need the extra power? Maybe just add a stand alone MPPT ?

 

[SauRoNZA]

Do you need the extra power? Maybe just add a stand alone MPPT ?

Yeah that’s the other option obviously but costs don’t seem all that far apart when I start looking at two MPPT’s for different wind direction.

Or I could go parallel and dark magic it.

Any ideas what the limits are on the Aux?

 

[RonSwanson]

I’m going to guess you can’t parallel a 5kW Sunsynk to an 8kW right?

You’d have to feed it in from the generator side if you wanted to do something like that?

Considering my upgrade path for East and West additions later in this year and realising that going for 2 x 5kW in parallel may have made more sense considering there would be 4 x MPPT’s.

How much more PV would you want?
A 3.6K SS could do it, as would that special 3.6K with 6K MPPT (for UK).

AFAIK the Aux limit on the 5K SS is 4K, not sure about the 8k, probably 6K or so.

 

[SauRoNZA]

How much more PV would you want?
A 3.6K SS could do it, as would that special 3.6K with 6K MPPT (for UK).

AFAIK the Aux limit on the 5K SS is 4K, not sure about the 8k, probably 6K or so.

Still conceptualising it in my head what would make sense.

Like 2.5kWp East and another 2.5kWp West so they wouldn’t operate at the same time anyway.

 

[B-1]

Yeah that’s the other option obviously but costs don’t seem all that far apart when I start looking at two MPPT’s for different wind direction.

Or I could go parallel and dark magic it.

Any ideas what the limits are on the Aux?

The Aux port in generator mode will be a bit hacky as you have gen on and off settings and other things specific to a generator. Not sure how well that would work but thats not something I've looked into.

Do you already have 2 differently sized stings on the inverter? North and east would work pretty well if you can get enough panels on there.

 

[SauRoNZA]

The Aux port in generator mode will be a bit hacky as you have gen on and off settings and other things specific to a generator. Not sure how well that would work but thats not something I've looked into.

Do you already have 2 differently sized stings on the inverter? North and east would work pretty well if you can get enough panels on there.

Yeah I have 9 panels on the one MPPT and 11 on the other all going North.

So I could rebalance them onto one MPPT and then setup the other in parallel East / West just not sure if I would be winning or not.

 

[RonSwanson]

The Aux port in generator mode will be a bit hacky as you have gen on and off settings and other things specific to a generator.

It's an adaptive menu, you would not use Generator, but Micro Inverter, which allows you to set the frequency limits, and the battery state for on/off.

 

[RonSwanson]

Yeah I have 9 panels on the one MPPT and 11 on the other all going North.

So I could rebalance them onto one MPPT and then setup the other in parallel East / West just not sure if I would be winning or not.

Or you could just go for a Luxpower 10K with 3 MPPTs

 

[B-1]

It's an adaptive menu, you would not use Generator, but Micro Inverter, which allows you to set the frequency limits, and the battery state for on/off.

I didn't know that existed thanks. Always just heard about aux or gen.