JohnJuniorV3
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Sound Spectrum AnalysisWhat app is that?
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Sound Spectrum AnalysisWhat app is that?
Sweet, thank you, much appreciated! I have managed to find some nice parameters.It really depends on the size of your battery and the load. If you're not running heavy appliances (electric kettle, aircon, stove, etc) then you can probably let it go down to 80 after dark without worrying about being depleted by the morning if you have decent battery capacity.
Yep. Kick his ass for that.Sweet, thank you, much appreciated! I have managed to find some nice parameters.
I see my battery settings are setup as Battery % instead of Lithium by the installer, despite having a Hubble AM-2. Is this problematic?
Do you have panels?I am also a bit of a noob at this, would like some insight if you guys can help. What would be the optimal settings for reducing my electricity cost but also having enough to last through load shedding?
Yesterday I used the battery for about 4h30min and it only dropped to 80%. Right now we have 4h30min of load shedding but the battery hasn't been touched and only running off PV. So say this late afternoon at about 4-5pm when PV isn't producing as much and grid is on, but I want to make use of some of the battery and have enough for load shedding at 6:30pm.
Would 80% battery be a good idea? Or even less?
Whoops, apologies, it’s an AM-5. Not too sure. Solar is provided by GoSolr.How new is your AM2?
I have 8x 470w panels. Would you then suggest to run the battery down on the time of use settings?Do you have panels?
Even if you have no panels, then you should still run your battery down to 25-30% on a weekly basis, it's what Hubble recommends.
Your Shutdown and Low Batt Alarm are both set to 20%, that's kinda wrong. You need to decide how low you want to run your batteries, I take both my 3 Hubbles and Pylontech US3000s down to 20%. Once you have decided, then set Shutdown and Alarm to a comfortable level. Typically you would want your alarm to signal and warn you that shutdown is imminent, so it needs to 5-10% higher than Shutdown.
Yes, because it's cheaper to use solar to charge them. Better to run them down every evening, and leave a margin for loadshedding. By your previous calculations, 9 hours should take you to 60%, 13.5 hours to 40%. Plenty of fat left for loadshedding.I have 8x 470w panels. Would you then suggest to run the battery down on the time of use settings?
Thank you! Would these time of use settings work then? Im not sure if I am getting the grid charge idea correct. Or should I leave the grid charge ticked for if there is a sh***y day of PV production?Yes, because it's cheaper to use solar to charge them. Better to run them down every evening, and leave a margin for loadshedding. By your previous calculations, 9 hours should take you to 60%, 13.5 hours to 40%. Plenty of fat left for loadshedding.
I think you'll have to zoom out/pinch out a bit to get to the 15 000hz and see if you pick up anything?View attachment 1482413
Right next to my inverter with very low load. Battery is being charged. I will test when we're using it properly but all my appliances, power supplies and TVs are quiet.
I do know noise gets injected if you have reversed live and neutral on some appliances. Vacuum cleaners, for example, can inject noise if you get the two pin the wrong way around, though they are temporary so usually not an issue.
In our old house we used to get noise on some circuits. The difference was we had no Eskom earth - we were on an earth spike. Where I am now we have earth from Eskom and of course the neutral earth bridge relay is installed for outage scenarios.
Yep, you can test that tonight and see how it goes. It may be better to get your installer back first to get BMS comms going though. Unless you are comfortable to do it yourself.Thank you! Would these time of use settings work then? Im not sure if I am getting the grid charge idea correct. Or should I leave the grid charge ticked for if there is a sh***y day of PV production?
Pardon my ignorance, but what is BMS comms exactly?Agree with BMS comms. Can you crimp an RJ45 cable?
I'll see if I can get pinouts for the AM-5 to Sunsynk.
Let me check if there is a BMS comma cable already in place and it wasn’t just an inverter setup mistake. Otherwise I’ll see if I can attempt to crimp one and get back to you. I think my crimping tool is in PTA and I’m in joburg, so that’s lovelyBasically battery management comms. Your battery has an intelligent computer to tell the inverter all about its capabilities so you don't have to manually configure it. You just set it to lithium, plug the crimped CAN bus BMS comms cable in and it does the rest. It's the best way to set up the battery by a mile.
So I can see an RJ45 cable exiting the AM-5, but I do not think that the battery stats you are mentioning is are registering on the inverter? Unless you are only referring to the percentage, then yes.You can confirm it's working once you've set it to Lithium etc. You should see the battery charge registered on the main page. You should also get battery stats on the battery screen.
Yes that's how "non-essentials" db works.I also see that although the geyser is isolated from the setup and only works when I am receiving Eskom power, it actually then pulls the power from the panels and battery and not mains. Is this normal? Essentially only working when mains is up, but pulling from the other power sources?
Can I open the inverter while it is still powered up? Or must I switch everything off. I don’t wanna kill myself in the processTake a pic of the pinout of that cable. Where does it plug in on the inverter?
Take a pic of the pinout of that cable. Where does it plug in on the inverter?
That looks correct you don't have to change anything there.Appears that the cable is a normal RJ45 setup, not using your diagram. I’ll have to crimp it and then see if the inverter and battery are communicating.