All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Your battery doesn't have comms with the inverter. :confused:
It is set up to use voltages, and I cannot comment on that, don;t have capacity to trawl for Shoto documentation. There also seems to be alternate use of voltages and percentages, from my understanding you should be using voltage throughout.
Get hold of your installer and ask him to hook the battery up with proper comms, AFAIK the Shoto is capable of it. Failing that, he needs to setup proper voltage values and specify it as AGM.
Also he needs to correct your capacity, no way it is 200Ah, and that discharge rate of 120A is optimistic, needs to be corrected. AFAIK the Shoto can do 1C, but remember seeing somewhere that recommended discharge is 50A. 1C would be 100A, not 120A.
Just checked the latest Sunsynk manual, the 5K SS supports comms with the Shoto SDC-BOX5 (5.12kWh) via CAN. That means that there is a good chance that the Deye will support it too. If your particular Shoto is that model, then he ought to hook in up with comms.

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If i can get a hubble cloundlink for R2488, would it be worth it? Local supplier has them online for R3200, instore he'll be able to give it for R2488.
However, if there's no gain from it, might have to leave it rather.
 
If i can get a hubble cloundlink for R2488, would it be worth it? Local supplier has them online for R3200, instore he'll be able to give it for R2488.
However, if there's no gain from it, might have to leave it rather.
I paid R3500 for mine, that's a very good price.

What is the cost of decommissioning your battery, un-mounting it, putting it in your car and driving it through to the workshop, just for them to do diagnostics, and then all the way back again, mount and commission again?
 
I paid R3500 for mine, that's a very good price.

What is the cost of decommissioning your battery, un-mounting it, putting it in your car and driving it through to the workshop, just for them to do diagnostics, and then all the way back again, mount and commission again?
I'm a lazy bastard, so point taken!
 
I paid R3500 for mine, that's a very good price.

What is the cost of decommissioning your battery, un-mounting it, putting it in your car and driving it through to the workshop, just for them to do diagnostics, and then all the way back again, mount and commission again?
What's your take on the Cloudlink, compared to the Sunsynk's dongle?

Is the Cloudlink as informative, if not more than the Sunsynk's
 
What's your take on the Cloudlink, compared to the Sunsynk's dongle?

Is the Cloudlink as informative, if not more than the Sunsynk's
Different tools, different applications. Cloudlink allows far more visibility into the batteries, and you can change inverter settings remotely, but the rest of the stats do not work on the 5K. The 8K is a different story, more inverter stats available. But still not as good as the Sunsynk dongle, which you will need in anycase for firmware updates. You need both.
 
Thank you but will it apply to Deye as well?
From the screens you posted, the battery section looks the same. I just couldnt see if you have the protocol section and what the protocol would be for Deye.
Based on this forum post it seems to be the same: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/9360...ation-problems/?do=findComment&comment=101746

You had a lot of posts but the main thing was that you seemed to be missing the can cable between the battery and inverter. Once thats installed along with the battery setting changed to lithium, your inverter will manage the battery much better than the battery % setting it is on now.
 
From the screens you posted, the battery section looks the same. I just couldnt see if you have the protocol section and what the protocol would be for Deye.
Based on this forum post it seems to be the same: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/9360...ation-problems/?do=findComment&comment=101746

You had a lot of posts but the main thing was that you seemed to be missing the can cable between the battery and inverter. Once thats installed along with the battery setting changed to lithium, your inverter will manage the battery much better than the battery % setting it is on now.
Whilst I wait for the CAN to be installed should I changed the setting to lithium?
 
Whilst I wait for the CAN to be installed should I changed the setting to lithium?
No. Lithium setting needs CAN/RS485. If it cant see the BMS values, it wont know what to do.
The CAN cable is a really easy install. Its shocking your installer wouldn't have done it from the beginning.
 
No. Lithium setting needs CAN/RS485. If it cant see the BMS values, it wont know what to do.
The CAN cable is a really easy install. Its shocking your installer wouldn't have done it from the beginning.
You live and learn!
 
If i can get a hubble cloundlink for R2488, would it be worth it? Local supplier has them online for R3200, instore he'll be able to give it for R2488.
However, if there's no gain from it, might have to leave it rather.
Don't buy it. It's a pos. I have one and i use the old solarman dongle. Cloudlink only gives you a few battery charts etc. Really not worth it. They tried diagnosing my battery via the cloudlink and could not fix it. So had to take the battery in. If you use the cloudlink connected to the inverter you lose the capability of using the sunsynk dongle. That's if you have a sunsynk inverter. And then still it gives poor info.

Also, firmware updates are NOT possible via the cloudlink. Although they say so on their site. I booked my cloudlink in with my battery as mine is one of the first models and it needs a hardware update according to them. Will see what changes there are if any on my side when i get it back.
 
If you use the cloudlink connected to the inverter you lose the capability of using the sunsynk dongle.
How so? I have both SS dongle and Cloudlink connected, the Cloudlink connects via a CAN as well as an RS485 cable to the inverter.
 
How so? I have both SS dongle and Cloudlink connected, the Cloudlink connects via a CAN as well as an RS485 cable to the inverter.
I will have to check again what cables i got with my cloudlink when i have it back. Maybe i missed something.
 
Its pretty confusing so I'm just going to post my settings below and explain how it works.
Most of my output is on "Load" I have a geyser and plug on "non essential".

The system one screen I'm sure you are OK with at this point:

View attachment 1464027

The system 2 screen is as follows:

View attachment 1464029

Based on above during non loadshedding both "load" and "non essentials" are powered by a blend of solar, battery and grid until the battery SOC reaches my system1 preset. After that they will both power from solar and grid.

If there is loadshedding then "non essentials" is off and only "Load" is powered by solar and battery.


The 0w in "inverter power limiter" prevents power from going past the CT coil in this specific config. It has a different purpose in other configurations.

"Priority load" means "Load" gets PV power before the battery or grid (this seems to be best in most scenarios)

To confuse you further there is another input/output called aux/generator. Apparently this is smarter and has more adjustability but info is scarce and I don't use it.

How's the above been working so far - have you managed to tweak your settings so that you only use excess solar for non-essentials (after batteries full and Load is covered), or does it still use some battery?
 
How's the above been working so far - have you managed to tweak your settings so that you only use excess solar for non-essentials (after batteries full and Load is covered), or does it still use some battery?

Im fairly happy with it, I had the SOC lower before but I had a few close calls during stage 6 loadshedding so I moved it up as loadshedding is my primary goal right now.
If I add another PV string and 2 more batteries I will be mostly off grid but I'm still deciding on what I want to do.

From my charts the battery is using about 6kwh per day so definitely still cycling and I did 12.5kwh from 3.2kw worth of panels yesterday with some cloud cover. (It did about 16kwh when I had the battery SOC set lower)

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