All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Mike Hoxbig said:
The benefit of the timer is to control the load. You can schedule the geyser to come on during the day to run off PV so it doesn't draw any battery.

Since you have a 5 kW inverter, you'll also know exactly which hours the geyser is running so you know not to run anything else and trip your inverter...
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Yup, that's exactly what I do. The geyser uses around 3kW and if there is no sun and no Eskom that would be eating my batteries fast and also very close to tripping over 5kW draw and just shutting down the inverter (from experience)
 
furpile said:
As per the other replies, no you won't save with a timer. A geyser at say 60C should lose only a couple of degrees C per day due to standing losses. The only way to save is to reduce your usage (shorter showers, colder water etc).

A geyser is also only on or off (normal element geyser), so there is no 30W standby. That is something else in the house turning on and off. On it will use 3kW (or whatever element you have) and off it will be 0.
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It might even be a trickle to keep the batteries topped up but yeah my grid draw is around 35w of which the inverter uses 20W to track so something somewhere is using the 15w odd as standard. The little bursts every 20mins or so may be the pool smart circuit doing checkins or a battery top up , I dunno but its small enough not to care about. Stove, Geyser, Pool and a old aircon are all direct
 
Kosmik said:
Because my geyser is fully electric, its specifically not on the load circuit as well as the stove, no danger of tripping. But I hear you in the case of a full off grid, makes sense but I would then probably switch it out for either a gas or maybe direct, 5KVA would not be enough to cover my home total, 8KVA maybe.
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The timer is to let the geyser heat up (even if it's on the non-essential side) while there's lots of sunshine to push power, rather than at night when the sun is down and Eskom is the only source.

So in that way, the timer *should* save you a bit of money.
 
Kosmik said:
Side question. Many folks believe in cost cutting with a geyser timer off switch. Based on my monitoring of my homes power, it really doesn't look like it will do much. On standby, my geyser is drawing under 30W. Plumbers recently told me a while back that modern geysers have internal insulation even better than the old school geyser blanket and a well maintained Geyser will only draw enough power to maintain its internal heat.

From my usage

View attachment 1503479

The first cluster of evening spike is our electric stove, the second big one is the geyser when the family bathes ( we normally do our kids first and then wife and I after ) and we use the geyser in one slot really. So a timer doesn't make sense to me because the "resting" draw is so low, have a look at the beginning, our nightly draw is around 350-400W for the home ( including geyser and appliances ).

Anyway, not so much a question but a statement, is the whole Geyser timer thing worth it? I was seriously considering buying a smart wifi isolator for the geyser for regulating it but based on that graph and patterns, waste of time.
Click to expand...

I think that what is useful is the ability to switch the geyser off automatically when Loadshedding kicks in to ensure that your batteries are not inadvertently drained when you don't want them to be.
 
Kosmik said:
Maybe its a version of the logger because the cutoffs are exact like on the hour and restore on the hour
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Interesting, or maybe depending on when we signed up, we're on slightly different databases or something? So yours might be up when mine is down and vice versa? The solarman service does seem to go down annoyingly often though, I agree.
 
1am7h30n3 said:
Interesting, or maybe depending on when we signed up, we're on slightly different databases or something? So yours might be up when mine is down and vice versa? The solarman service does seem to go down annoyingly often though, I agree.
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Or they are hitting a IOT limit for messages.
 
Kosmik said:
It might even be a trickle to keep the batteries topped up but yeah my grid draw is around 35w of which the inverter uses 20W to track so something somewhere is using the 15w odd as standard. The little bursts every 20mins or so may be the pool smart circuit doing checkins or a battery top up , I dunno but its small enough not to care about. Stove, Geyser, Pool and a old aircon are all direct
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Its probably the trickle from the grid to keep the connection alive.
Also the power used by inverter isnt always included.
 
When looking if solar panels Amp exceed the inverter maximum, do you look at
  • Short Circuit Current (Isc), or
  • Maximum Power Current (Imp)
 
Renier said:
When looking if solar panels Amp exceed the inverter maximum, do you look at
  • Short Circuit Current (Isc), or
  • Maximum Power Current (Imp)
Click to expand...
Maximum power current.
But voltage generally more important cos if you exceed the volts, you blow the inverter.
For current, your inverter will clip the panels to the inverter max. So a 11a inverter will run a 13a panel at 11a.
So it just results in your panel never reaching the max power its rated at.
Technically they both important, but 1 will damage the inverter.
 
Fcon_Vpro said:
Maximum power current.
But voltage generally more important cos if you exceed the volts, you blow the inverter.
For current, your inverter will clip the panels to the inverter max. So a 11a inverter will run a 13a panel at 11a.
So it just results in your panel never reaching the max power its rated at.
Technically they both important, but 1 will damage the inverter.
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Yes, thanks I know about the voltage. I'm only doing 6 panels, so that's only about 300V.

I was just wondering how much my 555W panels will clip. Imp is 13.2A, so not too bad on 13A of Sunsynk 5kW.
 
Clipping will be minimal as you'll only get the max amps for a very short part of the day.
 
Would appreciate it if someone with a Deye inverter could check what the Voltage shows when running on battery (used the Deye weblink (https://www.deye-icloudhome.com/plant/infos/device)

Mine shows the following during loadshedding

1680988741905.png

When not loadshedding it shows:

1681032691166.png

I'm wondering whether

1. this is why my Shelly Dimmer 2 Switch misbehaves during loadshedding and,
2. there is a setting that I can change to force the inverter to output slightly higher voltage when running on battery?
 
AfricanTech said:
Would appreciate it if someone with a Deye inverter could check what the Voltage shows when running on battery (used the Deye weblink (https://www.deye-icloudhome.com/plant/infos/device)

Mine shows the following during loadshedding

View attachment 1505421

When not loadshedding it shows:

View attachment 1505525

I'm wondering whether

1. this is why my Shelly Dimmer 2 Switch misbehaves during loadshedding and,
2. there is a setting that I can change to force the inverter to output slightly higher voltage when running on battery?
Click to expand...
How is your grid configured on the inverter?
 
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