lkpat
Executive Member
WiFi is LAN lol.Why not just use WiFi? I didn't even realise the dongle had a LAN port.
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WiFi is LAN lol.Why not just use WiFi? I didn't even realise the dongle had a LAN port.
Why the heck is your dishwasher connected to an input on the sonoff??So now that I have two Hubbles installed. When drawing more than 5Kw from the battery , the graph is maxed. Where the heck do I set the battery capacity to be 11kw (5.5x2)
Ta in advance.
Loving the second battery. Normally won't need to use Eskom at all at night (just need to clean up my automations and settings a bit) and then to use the available battery capacity to heat the bath geyser (which is what the pic is showing with wife starting washing machine too) before the day starts.
Geyser turns off automatically when battery SoC reaches 36% just in case Eskom doesn't come back at 6am if it is load shedding.
Pic 2:
After wife and got back from our respective abroad trips noticed a burning electronic smell from the scullery area when I was passing through a few days ago . Decided to check that last night. OMG. The plug for the dishwasher was burning itself out and I think it started taking the sonoff with it too. Wires in sonoff were getting fused together .Both sonoff and plug sockets are fixed so no movement of them . Wondering if the sonoff caused it or the dishwasher plug.
View attachment 1523131View attachment 1523161
If you are running home assistant you can use the solcast integration. This gives you forecast values for next hour, remaining today and for tomorrow. It is reasonably accurate. Then you can use the forecast for next hour to determine how much you could be generating above what you currently are producing to turn on more appliances.Right. So the only thing is to turn on appliances and see when it starts to draw from grid / battery in addition?
Yeh, looks like the wiring was the wrong way around.Why the heck is your dishwasher connected to an input on the sonoff??
Ah right I didn't read your comment properly. I see now you mentioned geyserwise.The geyserwise is WiFi connected so HA can send it instructions based on the SoC, PV production etc.
Mine's been running consistently an hour or more behind with the data and I can't get any current readings.Has sunsynk app been offline for most of today?
Mine has been ofline for a few hours. They said they were busy with creating regions and moving client data around. SA is aparently now on a German provider that was said to be much more secure than AWS.Has sunsynk app been offline for most of today?

Any tier1 brand will be fine: Canadian, ja, jinko, longiMy fellow Sunsy's
Let's just leave that there, sorry...
So, I have the 5Kw Sunsynk, with a hubble 5Kw (treated me well)
But it's time to start with a few solar panels, I was thinking 6-8, budget depending.
I was hoping you kind gents, and gals can maybe guide me on which panels I should be looking at. I'm aware the volts on the panels are the important factor I should be looking at, but not sure what I'm looking at to be frankly honest (who's this frank)
JA and Canadian seem like the go-to panels, happy if there's something else you'd like to flag me with.
In short, which 6-8 panels would be the best bang for the buck to start my solar exploration?
My current usage is 17kw's from 12am - to 20:30, this includes everything that runs through the inverter, plugs, lights etc. Except for the geyser and the stove(Which we replaced recently with a gas option)
The 17KW includes the battery's 'In' charging usage. - Total usage is 25-27KW a day (prepaid meter usage)
Any tier1 brand will be fine: Canadian, ja, jinko, longi
If you have newer firmware, get a panel with impedence of less than 13a. I think 550w panels are generally around that mark.
If you have older firmware, then get 11a or less, 470w panels are around that.
Get minimum of 4 panels so that you have enough volts to start up the mppt.
The max power supported by 5kw sunsynk is 6.5kw of panels, so try get as many panels to get close to that figure.
If you are budget conscious then try get about 3kw worth of panels.

I'm curious as to the technical reason for this.If you have newer firmware, get a panel with impedence of less than 13a. I think 550w panels are generally around that mark.
If you have older firmware, then get 11a or less, 470w panels are around that.
It will be fine, but you will only have max power of 13a x 40.99v= 532w per panelJinko 550W - Is this a bit far out at 13.54A?
I'm trying to aim for 3kw at least, 6-8 would get there at least.
View attachment 1524621
The first 5kw's supported 11a, later sunsynk increased it to 13a.I'm curious as to the technical reason for this.
Which to be fair, is a very slight loss. He might even be winning across a day as the amp clipping will be for an hour or so (if that), but he'll be producing slightly more than a lower current panel for the balance of the day.It will be fine, but you will only have max power of 13a x 40.99v= 532w per panel
Impedance or current?Any tier1 brand will be fine: Canadian, ja, jinko, longi
If you have newer firmware, get a panel with impedence of less than 13a. I think 550w panels are generally around that mark.
If you have older firmware, then get 11a or less, 470w panels are around that.
Get minimum of 4 panels so that you have enough volts to start up the mppt.
The max power supported by 5kw sunsynk is 6.5kw of panels, so try get as many panels to get close to that figure.
If you are budget conscious then try get about 3kw worth of panels.
There should be a sticker on the side of the inverter detailing the specs.Now i have to go check which model I have!
Found it, states 13Ad c + 13Ad cThere should be a sticker on the side of the inverter detailing the specs.