All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

1c batteries...

So why on earth would they set it at 40amps?
You sure about that, what does the spec say?

Remember max A is not what you're interested in, most batteries allow for 1C max. That's only for very short periods of time. What you're interested in is nominal A - this is what you can run it at continuously...
 
That 40a is only for charging the battery from solar sources.
You can set that value according to your battery fuse size and cable thickness.
150a is 7500w at 50v.

For charging from grid, you can go to the next battery screen below the one you posted. There will be grid and generator listed. You set the amps based on dc charge, not ac, usually also 40a as standard. You can adjust that one up as well.

So my panels total 6000w. So I should go with 120amps?

And my fuses are 250 so I should be good? My cable thickness is 70mm if Im not mistaken.

40a is the default setting. In other words was never adjusted by your installer

Not surprised..

You sure about that, what does the spec say?

Remember max A is not what you're interested in, most batteries allow for 1C max. That's only for very short periods of time. What you're interested in is nominal A - this is what you can run it at continuously...

So this is the Volta spec, I don't see nominal A:
  • Battery Type: Lithium-Ion.
  • Product Model: Volta Stage 1.
  • Energy: 5.12KWH.
  • Voltage: 51.2VDC.
  • Capacity: 100AH.
  • Cell Type: LFP.
  • 1C/1C Continual Charge & Discharge.
  • Standard Charge Voltage: 56VDC
  • Discharge Current: 100A.
  • Discharge Cut-Off Voltage: 44.8VDC.
  • Design Life: 6000 Cycles @ 80% DOD @ 25°C.
  • Installation Type: Wall Mount & Floor Stand.
  • Warranty: 10 Years For Cells, 5 Years For BMS
 
So my panels total 6000w. So I should go with 120amps?

And my fuses are 250 so I should be good? My cable thickness is 70mm if Im not mistaken.



Not surprised..



So this is the Volta spec, I don't see nominal A:
  • Battery Type: Lithium-Ion.
  • Product Model: Volta Stage 1.
  • Energy: 5.12KWH.
  • Voltage: 51.2VDC.
  • Capacity: 100AH.
  • Cell Type: LFP.
  • 1C/1C Continual Charge & Discharge.
  • Standard Charge Voltage: 56VDC
  • Discharge Current: 100A.
  • Discharge Cut-Off Voltage: 44.8VDC.
  • Design Life: 6000 Cycles @ 80% DOD @ 25°C.
  • Installation Type: Wall Mount & Floor Stand.
  • Warranty: 10 Years For Cells, 5 Years For BMS
Yip that all sounds fine. Your batteries will only in theory charge at 0.4C if equally split.
 
Yip that all sounds fine. Your batteries will only in theory charge at 0.4C if equally split.

Im ok with that for now..will just monitor..

Thanks for the advice! I've learnt more from forum members in the last 2 days than I have throughout the installation process
 
Has anyone bought from Centurion Solar up in Centurion?

Haven't bought from them, but they were on my shortlist so I went and checked out their office.

Seem like decent enough guys and they were getting stock (and a fair amount of stuff) ready for the couriers while I was there. They have been around for a while.
 
Thanks, will appreciate the pics.

No I don't, I see the pi online itself is expensive. I hope to be a very light user, so I thought solarman would be fine. But it would be great to be able to change settings on the app...
1693330641866.png


1693330672061.png

My preference would be to go with 2 of these rather:


They come in different formats including a 2x10 hole box as above pics.

Otherwise
 
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I have 8kw Deye, my airfryer trips the earth leakage when AC is on, but when there is load shedding or if AC is off it works without tripping the earth leakage. We initially decided it just has to much start up amps, but why does it work when the AC is off?
 
I have 8kw Deye, my airfryer trips the earth leakage when AC is on, but when there is load shedding or if AC is off it works without tripping the earth leakage. We initially decided it just has to much start up amps, but why does it work when the AC is off?
Do you have a multimeter? If yes, put it on AC V and test the voltage between earth and neutral while eskom is off.
If no multimeter, if you have one of those ellies surge arrestor plugs or multiplugs with LEDs (the red ones), how many LEDs light up when eskom is off?

I suspect your neutral earth bond is not set up and your earth leakage is a bit dicky. A better EL might be needed. They are sometimes temperamental with surge arrestors on the DB.
 
Do you have a multimeter? If yes, put it on AC V and test the voltage between earth and neutral while eskom is off.
If no multimeter, if you have one of those ellies surge arrestor plugs or multiplugs with LEDs (the red ones), how many LEDs light up when eskom is off?

I suspect your neutral earth bond is not set up and your earth leakage is a bit dicky. A better EL might be needed. They are sometimes temperamental with surge arrestors on the DB.
I do have an ellies plug. On AC mains on or off the two leds stay on.

The current EL is an ABB 63 amp one.
 
View attachment 1579088


View attachment 1579090

My preference would be to go with 2 of these rather:


They come in different formats including a 2x10 hole box as above pics.

Otherwise

Thank you sir. I'll look into this.

How much watts is my 12kw inverter supposed to use? My base load when we go to bed is like 800w and I can't seem to get it down
 
Thank you sir. I'll look into this.

How much watts is my 12kw inverter supposed to use? My base load when we go to bed is like 800w and I can't seem to get it down
Fridges

How many you got and how old?

My folks have the same problem. Old man has 8 fridges of varying age and refuses to delete some. Standby in Winter is 600-800w, whereas in Summer, they are going to work harder and his baseload will be nearer to 1kw. He even added an extra battery to compensate.
 
Fridges

How many you got and how old?

My folks have the same problem. Old man has 8 fridges of varying age and refuses to delete some. Standby in Winter is 600-800w, whereas in Summer, they are going to work harder and his baseload will be nearer to 1kw. He even added an extra battery to compensate.

One double door fridge and one upright freezer, both AAA...
 
One double door fridge and one upright freezer, both AAA...
Lights all LED?

I'd definitely spend some time on the weekend turning breakers off at the board to establish what is causing your high base load.

My base load from 10pm to the morning is 2-300w max. 4 fridges, cctv, networking, DSTV, 7x outside LED lights, 3 TVs on standby, multiple devices charging.
 
I do have an ellies plug. On AC mains on or off the two leds stay on.

The current EL is an ABB 63 amp one.
It might be worth testing a replacement EL or getting the sparky to disconnect eskom earth and testing on prem earth neutral bond only. Assuming you have an on prem spike in the ground.
 
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Something weird.

Currently load shedding.

Load is 733w
But battery is discharging over 1.2kw

Screenshot_20230830_073205_Chrome.jpg

Checked the various screens as well.

Screenshot_20230830_073225_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20230830_073238_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20230830_073301_Chrome.jpg

Wheres the other +500w from the battery going to if not to the load.
 
One double door fridge and one upright freezer, both AAA...
I have sonoff's switching off my fridges and freezers at 10PM and back on at 6AM and the TV, amp, decoder in the lounge. My baselode is about 250W now compared to 500W. It allowed me to run the heat pump at 4AM to heat up my geysers without using Eskom too much because I generally went down to 25% SOC. I have subsequently added another battery and this allows me to heat the geysers and still have a buffer of about 40% SOC for winter and cloudy days.
 
Had my onsite meeting with the installer from Solar Advice. They recommended the HinaESS over the Dyness.

Anyone have them installed?


Saw a few mentions in the various threads. No real negative feedback. Plus is that is 1C battery over the Dyness and double the warranty.
 
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