All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

On my day tab, it shows the May months still.

Only on the year tab is it showing me totals for June which is obviously today's stats, being the 1st.

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My brother-in-law moved into a new home and we tried to load the inverter (Sunsynk) onto the app but it says "device is bound". Do you have any suggestions how to add the inverter?
 
FlashSA said:
At least my 3rd Hubble is back after a 7 week warranty repair. Hubble's turn around was pretty good. The original distributor who let the battery sit in a PE courier depot for 3 weeks because they didn't want to pay courier to get it back to EL, not so good.
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How's the 3rd battery keeping up ?

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Dan C said:
How's the 3rd battery keeping up ?

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48hrs. Just over 2kwh of PV generation.

Certainly been a super grid heavy weekend and I now have a swampy swimming pool to sort out thanks to muddy run off from my neighbour during this morning's downpour(s).

Batteries can get some rest in preparation for loadshedding next week...
 
Hey guys this morning our power went off and inverter didn't kick in. Played a round a bit and after restarting got it to work. On the DB shouldn't the middel white main/breaker be up?
 

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L-Dog said:
Hey guys this morning our power went off and inverter didn't kick in. Played a round a bit and after restarting got it to work. On the DB shouldn't the middel white main/breaker be up?
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It's not a breaker, it's a changeover switch.
If your inverter stops working, you can move that switch up and then eskom will power everything while you can take your inverter offline to service.
That's why it's down and pointing to inverter, because the inverter is powering the loads
 
Fcon_Vpro said:
It's not a breaker, it's a changeover switch.
If your inverter stops working, you can move that switch up and then eskom will power everything while you can take your inverter offline to service.
That's why it's down and pointing to inverter, because the inverter is powering the loads
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Yeah it was always pointing up and when the power was off it would switch over automatically. This morning everything went off so switched it down and it worked. Not sure if it should be up or down normally I don't have solar just the battery and inverter
 
L-Dog said:
Yeah it was always pointing up and when the power was off it would switch over automatically. This morning everything went off so switched it down and it worked. Not sure if it should be up or down normally I don't have solar just the battery and inverter
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check with installer also he should put stickers to advise if up is to bypass inverter and down to go via or vice versa - cause you never going to remember
 
L-Dog said:
Yeah it was always pointing up and when the power was off it would switch over automatically. This morning everything went off so switched it down and it worked. Not sure if it should be up or down normally I don't have solar just the battery and inverter
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It doesn't look like an automatic changeover.
My guess would be that if it was up all the time, then you were just using eskom all the time and only had backup if you moved that down yourself.

You should be on the inverter permanently as then you have pure sine(no fluctuations from eskom) as well as power backup without any changeovers needed.

Changeovers are usually there to isolate power sources so that say your generator and eskom dont conflict, or in the case of an inverter or eskom, just to bypass the inverter if it breaks and so you aren't left without power.
But as @isie said, ask your installer.
 
acidrain said:
Same with me. When it clicks my geyserqwise panel goes off (non-essential) so it's likely the same which makes me think, where is the CT coil normally connected, before the meter, or after. That could be the difference for me.

Had a tech from CoCT over. They shook the outside pole a bit to see if it was a bad incoming connection, then said that the meter "could" be faulty but didnt test it. Apparently they have no stock of my specific meter :cautious:
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So a little update on this.

After the above tech, a second team came out, they identified a burn wire on the incoming voltage lines. This was repaired. Clicking stopped but came back a few days later.

Team 3 came out, now claiming the meter is faulty. They have no stock so as an interim they bypassed the meter box. Have had no problems with power since so can probably safely assume it was the meter.

4th team came out, not sure why but claims I must have a smart meter with a solar installation. Unfortunately I wasn't there with them but seems they are somehow leaning to me having to pay for a new meter (instead of them replacing) which I'm not really going to just accept since the CoCT approved my application and they know what meter is installed.

Until then, still sitting with a bypassed connection
 
acidrain said:
So a little update on this.

After the above tech, a second team came out, they identified a burn wire on the incoming voltage lines. This was repaired. Clicking stopped but came back a few days later.

Team 3 came out, now claiming the meter is faulty. They have no stock so as an interim they bypassed the meter box. Have had no problems with power since so can probably safely assume it was the meter.

4th team came out, not sure why but claims I must have a smart meter with a solar installation. Unfortunately I wasn't there with them but seems they are somehow leaning to me having to pay for a new meter (instead of them replacing) which I'm not really going to just accept since the CoCT approved my application and they know what meter is installed.

Until then, still sitting with a bypassed connection
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so COCT meter cost is what +/- R15k
you now have a bypassed meter -

run an extension cord to neighbours and charge them a few 100 bucks a day for unlimited power - * until COCT comes to install new meter

use R15K+ worth of electricity

#profit

Follow me for more money making tips
 
isie said:
so COCT meter cost is what +/- R15k
you now have a bypassed meter -

run an extension cord to neighbours and charge them a few 100 bucks a day for unlimited power - * until COCT comes to install new meter

use R15K+ worth of electricity

#profit

Follow me for more money making tips
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I dunno, smart meter is probably around the 3k mark. Im sure it depends on the approved brands they supply.

If it does get to the point where it's "You going to have to pay for one" then I'll just get the 6k one that allows feeding back.

Lol, if my morals weren't so demanding, I probably wouldve done that. Still being enbergy conscious in and around the house.
 
Willie Trombone said:
My read of that board is that the switch in the middle is always down when you're using the Inverter - whether Eskom is on or not (it's a hybrid inverter so it takes input from multiple sources including Eskom, Battery and Solar). While down, your Eskom routes to the inverter and the Inverter routes to the house circuits to power them. It stays down unless you need to bypass the inverter and power the house on Eskom alone, in which case you flip it once (to the middle - disconnect both) then a second time (to the top) to engage Eskom to power the house and bypass the inverter. In the up position, Eskom comes in to your main DB, then to that small sub-DB then back to the house circuits.

*EDIT* yes, it's a Riken 63A 2 Pole Change Over or Bypass Switch.
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Ahh so it should technically always be down ?
 
Willie Trombone said:
Yes, always down except when your inverter is broken and not feeding the house. In that case you can switch over to Eskom (up) which bypasses the inverter and allows you to carry on with life while you get the installer to investigate.

*EDIT* ask your installer to explain the following to you when you see them next:

1) How do I isolate all plugs in the house in the event of electrocution or electrical fire
2) How do I isolate and / or power down the inverter, batteries and solar panels in the event that there's a problem with either of those components or you simply want to switch them off (e.g. I isolate my inverter from the solar panels and Eskom during an electrical storm if I'm home while it's going on).
3) How do I bypass the inverter and use Eskom (as you would before the installation).

Those three should cover all the major eventualities.
I think what's going to come back to bite people is that it's never properly explained to them that they now have a power plant at home. It's a mini Eskom power generator that has the potential to hurt you if you fiddle with it without knowing the consequences. Some systems don't even have warning labels attached. Installers likely don't work that one hour of your time into their quotes for fear of losing the job. It's essential and should be required for the COC if it isn't already. I have seen all sorts - batteries with bare terminals or little transparent plastic covers over the terminals, but access to little fingers at their shoulder height or lower to the bare conductors. I cringe.

My FW batteries are sealed and the conductors are not exposed in any way on both ends. Same for my inverter and all DBs. I don't know why so many systems get installed with uninsulated conductors.
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Thanks yeah confirmed it should always be down. There is also an emergency breaker I need to pull down if there is any issues with the battery or inverter.
 
L-Dog said:
Thanks yeah confirmed it should always be down. There is also an emergency breaker I need to pull down if there is any issues with the battery or inverter.
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The only time I need to change it, is when I top up my prepaid electricity. If you have one of those 'smart' goodies, you need to set it to ESKOM . i.e up or else it won't connect.
 
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