Bicycle advice

So her height is +/- 158cm ( so she has grown quite a bit since earlier this year), arm length (50cm) and leg inseam length roughly 75cm.

Thus, the original bike linked in my first post may work.

View attachment 1564662

Buy that bike dude. Even if it is a tad too big she'll grow into it before the summer is finished. Get her some thick soled shoes and don't do gnarly mtb trails until she fits and it'll be fine.
 
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Solomons is a good shop, I bought some drivetrain components from there in the past.

As for the Avalanche, well the thing I like about them is they are local.
As someone that has ridden America, Taiwanese and currently German frames, I would consider South African for my next bike. Momsen, Titan or Avalanche.

That however is where the good news ends - in pretty much every aspect the Reflex 3 is inferior to the Alpha 6500.
Brakes: mechanical VS hydraulic
Gears: Ltwoo A2 3x7 VS Shimano Deore 3x9
Shock: Generic 60mm coil VS Rockshox 100mm air
Steering: Straight VS Tapered
Wheels: Generic VS Bontrager XR3
On the Trek there was also tubeless tyres and a bottle cage, but these are easy to add to most bikes.

You also need to keep in mind where the bike is placed in the model lineup. Typically, a bicycle company will have a model line-up that is refreshed yearly, and each model has a different level of components. So, you would typically have a dual sus model at the top, then a hard tail 29er followed by a hard tail 26er. Each model has different level with the lowest number being the highest spec level, a 0 or 1 will be the best equiped for that model and the higher the number, the lower the spec. So, you are getting a Reflex 3 which means there is a 2 and 1 both having better components as standard.

But it's all about learning and experiencing. I have done the exact same thing you are doing and learned from it. Looking back, it was valuable experience I gained which I am happy for.
 
Each model has different level with the lowest number being the highest spec level, a 0 or 1 will be the best equiped for that model and the higher the number, the lower the spec.
Not necessarily. Depends on the manufacturer. e.g. with Canyon bikes, higher number are better specs.
 
As someone that has ridden America, Taiwanese and currently German frames, I would consider South African for my next bike. Momsen, Titan or Avalanche.
My old man has Scott and Titan hardtails and D?S. He prefers the Titans over the Scotts. I might look closely at the Titan when I look to upgrade my Foil.
 
Solomons is a good shop, I bought some drivetrain components from there in the past.

As for the Avalanche, well the thing I like about them is they are local.
As someone that has ridden America, Taiwanese and currently German frames, I would consider South African for my next bike. Momsen, Titan or Avalanche.

That however is where the good news ends - in pretty much every aspect the Reflex 3 is inferior to the Alpha 6500.
Brakes: mechanical VS hydraulic
Gears: Ltwoo A2 3x7 VS Shimano Deore 3x9
Shock: Generic 60mm coil VS Rockshox 100mm air
Steering: Straight VS Tapered
Wheels: Generic VS Bontrager XR3
On the Trek there was also tubeless tyres and a bottle cage, but these are easy to add to most bikes.

You also need to keep in mind where the bike is placed in the model lineup. Typically, a bicycle company will have a model line-up that is refreshed yearly, and each model has a different level of components. So, you would typically have a dual sus model at the top, then a hard tail 29er followed by a hard tail 26er. Each model has different level with the lowest number being the highest spec level, a 0 or 1 will be the best equiped for that model and the higher the number, the lower the spec. So, you are getting a Reflex 3 which means there is a 2 and 1 both having better components as standard.

But it's all about learning and experiencing. I have done the exact same thing you are doing and learned from it. Looking back, it was valuable experience I gained which I am happy for.
Thanks, I bought a Merida 26 small. Will get the model name when at home. The bike is stock standard. Guy was silent until late yesterday afternoon. Followed the advice on youtube video linked. Negotiated down based on problem with the fork. Bike rides solidly. No rattles, noises. It changes gears okayish, needs to be adjusted, but does change. No slipping of chain when cycle. Was a fairly steep hill I rode the bike on.

Brakes, front very good. Rear does not stop as quickly. Rotors looks new. So will do a brake bleed.

Will change all the gear cables.

Fork rebuild (Sr Suntour XCM 100) kit not to expensive:

Paid R2600.
 
Thanks, I bought a Merida 26 small. Will get the model name when at home. The bike is stock standard. Guy was silent until late yesterday afternoon. Followed the advice on youtube video linked. Negotiated down based on problem with the fork. Bike rides solidly. No rattles, noises. It changes gears okayish, needs to be adjusted, but does change. No slipping of chain when cycle. Was a fairly steep hill I rode the bike on.

Brakes, front very good. Rear does not stop as quickly. Rotors looks new. So will do a brake bleed.

Will change all the gear cables.

Fork rebuild (Sr Suntour XCM 100) kit not to expensive:

Paid R2600.
Any reason you didn't stop around a bit more and get a 29er?
 
Thanks, I bought a Merida 26 small. Will get the model name when at home. The bike is stock standard. Guy was silent until late yesterday afternoon. Followed the advice on youtube video linked. Negotiated down based on problem with the fork. Bike rides solidly. No rattles, noises. It changes gears okayish, needs to be adjusted, but does change. No slipping of chain when cycle. Was a fairly steep hill I rode the bike on.

Brakes, front very good. Rear does not stop as quickly. Rotors looks new. So will do a brake bleed.

Will change all the gear cables.

Fork rebuild (Sr Suntour XCM 100) kit not to expensive:

Paid R2600.
Before you bugger about bleeding the brakes... Take out the rear pads.. Check them... Take some. Sandpaper.. Scuff them up a bit as they can glaze over.. Rub down the rotor as well, both sides and then do a few hards brake pulls at a moderate speed to bed them back in again.. The brakes sometimes use mineral oil which is pretty pricey for a small bottle..

When you change the gear cables... Get some new outer coveringas well. And dont forget the little cable ends to stop the fraying and the little plastic end caps for the cable outer...

Whats up with the fork?
 
Thanks, I bought a Merida 26 small. Will get the model name when at home. The bike is stock standard. Guy was silent until late yesterday afternoon. Followed the advice on youtube video linked. Negotiated down based on problem with the fork. Bike rides solidly. No rattles, noises. It changes gears okayish, needs to be adjusted, but does change. No slipping of chain when cycle. Was a fairly steep hill I rode the bike on.

Brakes, front very good. Rear does not stop as quickly. Rotors looks new. So will do a brake bleed.

Will change all the gear cables.

Fork rebuild (Sr Suntour XCM 100) kit not to expensive:

Paid R2600.
Get a can of brake cleaner and clean the rotors and pads before messing around with bleeding.. scuff the pads with a 80 or 100 grit sandpaper before cleaning with the brake cleaner..
 
Get a can of brake cleaner and clean the rotors and pads before messing around with bleeding.. scuff the pads with a 80 or 100 grit sandpaper before cleaning with the brake cleaner..
Aye, if the pads ever got a few drops of chain lube or other lubricant on them could be new pad time. But depends on whether lever has resistance without wheel stopping or soft (ha ha).
 
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