Car battery - does the brand matter

Speedster said:
It's time to replace the car battery - current one has failed to start the car a couple of times now. Fortunately I was able to charge the battery and get it going again, but I'm pretty sure it's on its last legs now.

Anyway, I've got quotes ranging from just over R1000 (GP brand), R1500 (Willard) and a couple more around R2000. Is it worth paying more for a "better" battery or are they all pretty much the same thing?
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Varta is pretty decent. Go to Willard Zone they normally stock them.
 
Anything but Willard, garbage that dies 2 weeks after the 2 year warranty expires. First battery was a Varta, lasted many years, next was the POS willard. Now I put in an exide, our local mechanic says he has many in the company cars and they last. Will see how true this is.
 
ProfA said:
Then you are an imbecile and there is no hope for you. Sorry man. World needs ditch diggers too.
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How long have you been digging ditches for @ProfA, your own video even mentioned that leaving a vehicle idling while you swop out the battery isn't going to do any damage, it is a different story if you are driving around without a battery but @Speedster never made any claims in that regard.
 
Craig_ said:
Anything but Willard, garbage that dies 2 weeks after the 2 year warranty expires. First battery was a Varta, lasted many years, next was the POS willard. Now I put in an exide, our local mechanic says he has many in the company cars and they last. Will see how true this is.
Click to expand...
I have also heard from numerous people that Exide make good batteries, a bit more pricey though.

The Masterparts house brand Ultra batteries are excellent and cheap, I've used two so far and no issues. Previously I have had a Sabat and some other make from Midas explode.
 
airborne said:
I have also heard from numerous people that Exide make good batteries, a bit more pricey though.

The Masterparts house brand Ultra batteries are excellent and cheap, I've used two so far and no issues. Previously I have had a Sabat and some other make from Midas explode.
Click to expand...

It's cheaper than a Varta. I just know I'll never buy a willard again.
 
UB40 said:
If it is a diesel vehicle just ensure your new battery can handle CCA so that you do not kill your battery in winter when starting in early mornings
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Reviving the thread.

Currently facing this issue with my 2014 Toyota Corolla 1.4D
Bought the car with some random battery (South Korean brand) and it's held up for a year and a bit (3 years total)

I bought a battery charger to see if it can still hold a charge, but if not I'll need to replace it

Planning on driving the car for a long time so will go with a Varta 646 Battery (based off advice in this thread) so I'm guessing this will do: https://midas-woodmead.co.za/product/652-vatra-blue-efb-2/

TIA
 
I got a Atlas battery for my Double Cab.
Best price and as the vehicle is used very little I wasn't going to spend a fortune.

To be honest it's the only battery that fully mends itself on my charger and runs for weeks without issues. The others are only fine for a day or two.
 
Moonlit8377 said:
Reviving the thread.

Currently facing this issue with my 2014 Toyota Corolla 1.4D
Bought the car with some random battery (South Korean brand) and it's held up for a year and a bit (3 years total)

I bought a battery charger to see if it can still hold a charge, but if not I'll need to replace it

Planning on driving the car for a long time so will go with a Varta 646 Battery (based off advice in this thread) so I'm guessing this will do: https://midas-woodmead.co.za/product/652-vatra-blue-efb-2/

TIA
Click to expand...

Varta are very decent batteries, just make sure the CCA are suitable for your car, as it is a diesel.
 
My BMW 330D has had 3 batteries. BMW OEM (9 years), another BMW battery (10 years), Varta (4 years and still going).

I have the car for a while, since new (2002).

I don't know what brand the BMW batteries are, could be Varta (can't see).

I have had Willards in my old Landrover, don't seem to last as long, but don't get treated as well. Last one maybe 3.5 years at present.

I do use Ctek trickle chargers when the cars stand for a while.
 
Jola said:
My BMW 330D has had 3 batteries. BMW OEM (9 years), another BMW battery (10 years), Varta (4 years and still going).

I have the car for a while, since new (2002).

I don't know what brand the BMW batteries are, could be Varta (can't see).

I have had Willards in my old Landrover, don't seem to last as long, but don't get treated as well. Last one maybe 3.5 years at present.

I do use Ctek trickle chargers when the cars stand for a while.
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That makes a big difference, lead acid batteries do not like being left on low charge, if you look after them most brands will last to a decent level.

The Masterparts house brand batteries are amazing value, literally the cheapest you can find but nicely made and decent quality, they don't look cheap. I've had 2 so far on various vehicles and the last one lasted 4yrs before I recently needed to replace it so I got another one and it the quality is still great.
www.masterparts.com

Batteries | Auto Parts | Masterparts

Masterparts offers maintenance-free car batteries for almost all vehicle makes and models. Available for delivery or at our branches.
www.masterparts.com www.masterparts.com
 
airborne said:
That makes a big difference, lead acid batteries do not like being left on low charge, if you look after them most brands will last to a decent level.

The Masterparts house brand batteries are amazing value, literally the cheapest you can find but nicely made and decent quality, they don't look cheap. I've had 2 so far on various vehicles and the last one lasted 4yrs before I recently needed to replace it so I got another one and it the quality is still great.
www.masterparts.com

Batteries | Auto Parts | Masterparts

Masterparts offers maintenance-free car batteries for almost all vehicle makes and models. Available for delivery or at our branches.
www.masterparts.com www.masterparts.com
Click to expand...
There is no reliability from "house brands". They can change overseas supplier and the battery will look exactly the same.
Rather stick to brands that have a reputation to uphold, like Atlas, Varta, ect.
 
Mars said:
There is no reliability from "house brands". They can change overseas supplier and the battery will look exactly the same.
Rather stick to brands that have a reputation to uphold, like Atlas, Varta, ect.
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Well I’m on my third one now and I've had no issues, they are so cheap that even if they die prematurely I can replace it with another one and still be ahead of most conventional brands price for just one unit.

The proof is in the pudding.
 
Speedster said:
Still don't see any problem
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Did not watch video.

Your battery acts as a buffer between the alternator and the the car drawing power. Remove the battery and you get a power surge / spike while car is running.

The ecu and electronic components are designed for voltage spikes, so usually can tolerate this. Say the alternator is pushing out 40 amps - that power has to now go somewhere, the buffer (battery) is missing. The possibility that the voltage from the alternator now increases beyond its designated voltage. So it may not blow something now, but it could have weakened something. The voltage regulator in the alternator may die in a couple of months time or some other electronic component - abs / bcm / ecu.

Just because it worked for someone without causing damage does not mean it is a good diagnostic method. Don't do it.. A simple R100 multi meter is good enough to check the battery voltage and the alternator output voltage.

To test a battery it needs to be fully charged and then load tested. You do get testers for batteries but always check what they are inputting for the battery test - the correct temperature and cca or ah depending on tester. Had many batteries denied under warranty because of this and then I go back and tell them to input the correct details and get the warranty. Be careful.
 
HobieDave said:
Did not watch video.

Your battery acts as a buffer between the alternator and the the car drawing power. Remove the battery and you get a power surge / spike while car is running.

The ecu and electronic components are designed for voltage spikes, so usually can tolerate this. Say the alternator is pushing out 40 amps - that power has to now go somewhere, the buffer (battery) is missing. The possibility that the voltage from the alternator now increases beyond its designated voltage. So it may not blow something now, but it could have weakened something. The voltage regulator in the alternator may die in a couple of months time or some other electronic component - abs / bcm / ecu.

Just because it worked for someone without causing damage does not mean it is a good diagnostic method. Don't do it.. A simple R100 multi meter is good enough to check the battery voltage and the alternator output voltage.

To test a battery it needs to be fully charged and then load tested. You do get testers for batteries but always check what they are inputting for the battery test - the correct temperature and cca or ah depending on tester. Had many batteries denied under warranty because of this and then I go back and tell them to input the correct details and get the warranty. Be careful.
Click to expand...
And all this damage happens in the 2, maybe 3 minutes, of changing the battery while the car is idling?
 
Speedster said:
And all this damage happens in the 2, maybe 3 minutes, of changing the battery while the car is idling?
Click to expand...

Not always, but its always your choice. I've had a few repairs to do because of this and it was not cheap, clients said they were told it would be ok to do. I wasn't there so cannot confirm.

I was driving a t5 caravelle when the battery clamp broke, felt a engine misfire - stopped, repaired clamp and everything was ok. No further issues when clamp was replaced.

It's like being told not have a leak on an electric fence. I am not going to test it.
 
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