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to drive the splits with 2 and then bridge the other channels for the sub
Bassreflex Subwooferbox
Diameter 200 mm
Max. Power 140 Watts
RMS Power 70 Watts
Sensitivity active system
Frequency response 25 - 500 Hz
Membrane material IPP
Dimensions (WxHxD in mm) 340 x 71 (max 79) x 225
Split system > 6x9
Infinity/Kicker/JL/JBL any of those brands, you do get some cheap-o Kicker and JBL tho (not worth the price).
I've personally had the Infinity Kappa's in my car (sold it tho), at full volume your ears feel like they are going to start bleeding (that was without a sub).
Be careful tho, you may have to upgrade your wiring & alternator. If the headlights dim that is the sign, upgrade the wiring and possible the alternator.
The car that had the Cappa's in I had the problem with the headlights/instrument cluster lights etc. dimming when at high volumes and when I added my sub, which led to: the RPM needle dropping (at idle it goes from 800rpm idle to 500rpm, ECU compensates pushed up to 1000rpm, goes back to 800rpm, drop to 500rpm, rinse repeat), at that point it looks like you are turning your lights to the parking light and main light option the whole time. Performance was also hectically reduced with those volumes.
So yeah ignored that for a while, then the alternator packed up, followed shortly by the coil pack (IE. spark), followed by the ECU, followed by the fuel pump, and believe me it's hard to diagnose these problems (the dealers couldn't figure out what was wrong each time, so I had to figure out how to fix the car on my own), you think the car is cursed meanwhile you caused the problem.
After I sold that car I decided to stick to standard car radio this time, not going through all that again. Still miss having sound that would make the car shake and other cars windows/body panels rattle when they park next to me, was LOL.
Moral of the story: Upgrade early!