Car wobbling when over 100km/h

Gordon_R said:
After a certain time/distance cars enter a kind of 'purgatory', where a lot of things need fixing, but it's difficult to prioritise which are urgent and necessary. I have a year 2000 Camry (less distance at 190K), and similar concerns about noises and rattles...

Sometimes stuff breaks that you completely forgot about. In my case it was the cambelt, but fortunately there was no damage to the engine.
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Yeah, I feel we hit that zone a while ago. We've owned the car since 2003 but I've been driving it since 2015. 2015 till now I can remember doing:

Brake Discs
CV joints
Bearings
Gearbox
Clutch

Lots of it was stuff that needed to be done on a vehicle this old, so justified costs. Wondering if the driveshaft is another one of those justified costs.
 
I have done this task myself in the past. What started off as a simple boot replacement on the wheel end of the drive shafts quickly became a refurbishment of both drive shafts. The second time, I took the drive shafts off myself and took them to a specialist shop to be refurbished and new boots fitted. Then I bolted them in place again with a new set of bolts torqued to the correct value. No issues both times. The first time was one moerse job. The second time was manageable.

The specialist outfit inspected all components and confirmed that all was okay and then just replaced all 4 boots. The effort to take off the drive shafts makes it just the right thing to do regardless if some of the boots are still okay or not.
 
Kosmik said:
Shuddering after 100 is rear, before 100 is front. Something is out on your rear tyres, either balancing or possibly some damage to camber etc.

It could be your front cv ( assuming its a front wheel drive ) but you would feel it way earlier than 100, easily from 60.

Stupid question, same tyre/tread patterns? You can get a wobble from differant patterns but my gut, with a post 100 shudder, check your rear rims for dents and balancing. Very difficult to straighten a rear camber on a front wheel drive car, thats normally from some major chassis impact.
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Don't really think it's rear.

You can feel it in the front and whatever work/changes happened, were in the front.

Not same tyre so probably not the same tread.
 
Geoff.D said:
I have done this task myself in the past. What started off as a simple boot replacement on the wheel end of the drive shafts quickly became a refurbishment of both drive shafts. The second time, I took the drive shafts off myself and took them to a specialist shop to be refurbished and new boots fitted. Then I bolted them in place again with a new set of bolts torqued to the correct value. No issues both times. The first time was one moerse job. The second time was manageable.

The specialist outfit inspected all components and confirmed that all was okay and then just replaced all 4 boots. The effort to take off the drive shafts makes it just the right thing to do regardless if some of the boots are still okay or not.
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Was this done in JHB? No way I'm doing that myself. :ROFL:
 
Dylan_G said:
Was this done in JHB? No way I'm doing that myself. :ROFL:
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PTA. The CV place was/is in PTA West. They do not remove and refit drive shafts - they specialise only in refurbishment. Can't remember the name of the place though too long ago.
 
Dealers generally don't do the CV joint thing and prefer replacing the whole shaft. I am afraid you are not going to get any specialist knowledge at Toyota, dealers nowadays are in the business of selling cars, not fixing them, they have no capacity or any appetite for that.

You need to go through everything that you have already done and make sure it was done properly, give special attention to the obvious as someone has already mentioned, loose wheels and bolts. The mountings are also something to look at.
 
I had an almost similar situation when I hit 120. Went to do wheel balancing and it turned out my rim was slightly bent, had that fixed and all was good.
 
Mine was dead spots on the tyres, set of new tyres and wheel alignment.

Somebody making big bucks trying fix that car lol
 
Try a place that does cv joints. I'm sure you'll get it done for a lot less.
 
Also when it happens take your foot off the accelerator. If it goes away it will most likely be the inner cv joint.
 
When was the brake discs replaced/worked on?
My money is on either a bad skim or poor replacement discs from a non-oem manufacturer.
 
There's a ton of cv joint places in Durbs, must be all our old cars.

Heck, try a kwik-fit if you have those. Wouldn't take it near a dealership.
 
Causes of when I experienced similar issues:
1. Wheel alignment
2. Loose wheek nuts
3. Unequal tyre pressure

Good luck
 
Kosmik said:
Shuddering after 100 is rear, before 100 is front. Something is out on your rear tyres, either balancing or possibly some damage to camber etc.

It could be your front cv ( assuming its a front wheel drive ) but you would feel it way earlier than 100, easily from 60.

Stupid question, same tyre/tread patterns? You can get a wobble from differant patterns but my gut, with a post 100 shudder, check your rear rims for dents and balancing. Very difficult to straighten a rear camber on a front wheel drive car, thats normally from some major chassis impact.
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Mine were over 100, it was the inner cv.
 
Just to throw other item(s) into the mix. The steering rack could also be worn. Many other components such as sway-bar links/bushings, ball-joints, etc can all contribute. Also engine mounts. It's really hard to tell judging by sound and feel, without getting your hands dirty.
 
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