-
Ask a question and get free supportUnlock new privileges and see hidden discussionsWin prizes and earn reputation
-
Question of the day ~ How often do you braai?
-
Afristay giveaway.Win a 2-night stay for two people at an establishment of your choice with R1,000 in spending money. Enter here.
Sign up with GoogleCiti Golf Sound
- Thread starter Pooky
- Start date
Gnome
Executive Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2005
- Messages
- 7,208
No idea, it's only peak output so means nothing. Once again, only RMS ratings matter, they don't provide the RMS ratings...
Speakers and amplifiers spend around 1% of their time at peak power, all audio signals are sine waves, if you look at this image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/4/4c/Peak-power-average-power-tau-T.png
The Po is peak power output, the Pavg is RMS power, as you can see that peak is pointless in determining how much power a amplifier puts out. Average power (RMS) is how much the amplifier can put out consistently (IE. 100% of the time).
Also that second amp I showed you definitely supports bridging, but that amp might not, if you want to use the setup I drew above the amp has to be bridgeable. Basically your sub-woofer would be running off of 2 channels bridged to run as 1 to increase power the sub-woofer sees. Most amps are bridgeable but really terrible amps may not be...
Speakers and amplifiers spend around 1% of their time at peak power, all audio signals are sine waves, if you look at this image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/4/4c/Peak-power-average-power-tau-T.png
The Po is peak power output, the Pavg is RMS power, as you can see that peak is pointless in determining how much power a amplifier puts out. Average power (RMS) is how much the amplifier can put out consistently (IE. 100% of the time).
Also that second amp I showed you definitely supports bridging, but that amp might not, if you want to use the setup I drew above the amp has to be bridgeable. Basically your sub-woofer would be running off of 2 channels bridged to run as 1 to increase power the sub-woofer sees. Most amps are bridgeable but really terrible amps may not be...
Gnome
Executive Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2005
- Messages
- 7,208
Well maybe you should try them
Honestly I'm not too clued up on the cheaper amps. I just looked for the cheapest that had the ratings needed.My frontloader is Sony.
The Best sound is always the most expensive...try RF splits top of the range coming in at R18000 a set!
Then you get JBL low end splits for R500 a set...what's the difference?
I hear cars stop at garges to fill up, and then the sounds get's pumped...a bad install with bad/cheap components will only pump BAD bass and not even hear what song it is...
A good install will pump all right bass and you'll hear what song it is
A great install will pump low end bass, clear songs and you'll immediately not be irritated at the guy playing such loud music, you'll actually enjoy it...that's great, expensive sound for you!
I've been contemplating a nice Lightning audio amp and RF sub only...but I'm not really a sound guy, but will be cool to pop the boot when we wash cars or at a braai with mates and pump nice deep house!
Then you get JBL low end splits for R500 a set...what's the difference?
I hear cars stop at garges to fill up, and then the sounds get's pumped...a bad install with bad/cheap components will only pump BAD bass and not even hear what song it is...
A good install will pump all right bass and you'll hear what song it is
A great install will pump low end bass, clear songs and you'll immediately not be irritated at the guy playing such loud music, you'll actually enjoy it...that's great, expensive sound for you!
I've been contemplating a nice Lightning audio amp and RF sub only...but I'm not really a sound guy, but will be cool to pop the boot when we wash cars or at a braai with mates and pump nice deep house!
pooky go for Star sound.
rather do it good the first time around. if you don't have the budget then save up or buy the components separately.
Since you have a head unit, then next would be to get splits, sub and Amp.
This is what i have in my golf
6"Slipts(starsound).
12" DVC Pioneer sub
2400w 4 channel Amp(Star sound digital)
and it pumps... nice clear quality sound
rather do it good the first time around. if you don't have the budget then save up or buy the components separately.
Since you have a head unit, then next would be to get splits, sub and Amp.
This is what i have in my golf
6"Slipts(starsound).
12" DVC Pioneer sub
2400w 4 channel Amp(Star sound digital)
and it pumps... nice clear quality sound
Gnome
Executive Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2005
- Messages
- 7,208
Haven't used Sony Xplod but people in overseas forums see it at as bottom of the range.
That is overkill, personally I hear good things about JBL (not the bottom of the range ones you see @ AutoStyle), Infinity and Boston Acoustics when it comes to splits. Hell even JL splits aren't too bad apparently.
Subs nothing beats JL IMHO.
Amps nothing beats Rockford Fosgate IMHO.
All of them are expensive but not R18 000 expensive.
That is overkill, personally I hear good things about JBL (not the bottom of the range ones you see @ AutoStyle), Infinity and Boston Acoustics when it comes to splits. Hell even JL splits aren't too bad apparently.
Subs nothing beats JL IMHO.
Amps nothing beats Rockford Fosgate IMHO.
All of them are expensive but not R18 000 expensive.
I already have mids and 6x9's. Not the best quality but I want to get an amp and put my sub in and then take it from there...
Hi there... Will those 6.5" splits fit in the citigolf? If so I am interested in this if you're still willing...?
