Corsa 1.6i Fan switch

[Zakhele001]

My corsa bakkie c16se ( 2002 ) 's electric radiator fan runs continuously with ignition. Actually I cut off the plug when it failed then just tied it to ignition to run when i turn on the key. Now I want to put it back to the control switch but I cant locate where I cut the plug off. Will it do the same if I just join the two wires to the temperature control switch under the coil pack???

thanks

 

[TheChamp]

That's odd, how forgetful can someone be? Post pictures perhaps someone can help, I can't picture the plug you cut off. The fan wires are 12V high current wires, the wires to the coolant temp sensor are small wires for ecu comms, I am not sure which wires you will be joining but I suspect it won't work.

 

[TheChamp]

Not sure how different is the bakkie but usually the fan wires go to the relay, perhaps there's a switch somewhere on your but it's usually the relay that does the switching when the CTS sends signals to the ECU.

 

[Zakhele001]

That's odd, how forgetful a can someone be? Post pictures perhaps someone can help, I can't picture the plug you cut off. The fan wires are 12V high current wires, the wires to the coolant temp sensor are small wires for ecu comms, I am not sure which wires you will be joining but I suspect it won't work.

Thanks for your input. Actually the engine was taken out and sent to engineers and the harness got mixed up and I tried some clean ups and thus when I think everything got mixed up.
You are right about the Temp sensor wires being small and are for ecu comms. I never the less tried the connection. I connected a direct wire from the battery positive to one of the fan's big wires then I used may earthing from the sensor's output. My logic was that when the sensor gets hot from the coolant the output wire will earth hence complete my circuit and on cooling down the connection will be broken.
I started the engine and when the water got hot the fan kicked in like normal but ran forever even after even switching off the engine. I had to cut the positive wire I had connected to the battery. I just don't understand how the sensor kept on closed even though may dash temperature had dropped to blue unless if the small wires melted and came into contact thereby bypassing the now open sensor..?

 

[Zakhele001]

Not sure how different is the bakkie but usually the fan wires go to the relay, perhaps there's a switch somewhere on your but it's usually the relay that does the switching when the CTS sends signals to the ECU.

The harness is still complete somewhere and I can hear the relay click when I probe with power on the connector. Do you think If I were to find the relay I can trace my cut wires from there or rather just connect after the relay. What number are output wires on relay? I can't test these for power as I will have to wait for the engine to almost overheat. Is there a proper way of identifying these wires cold? I have seen a couple of loose or cut wires near the fan but I don't know a way for identifying them as they will only get hot when the fan is supposed to kicking in.

 

[TheChamp]

Do you know where the fan relay is? I think that is where the fan is feeding from, maybe if you go straight there you will find the cut wires? On my hatch it is unde the wiper cover thing on the driver's side.

 

[TheChamp]

The harness is still complete somewhere and I can hear the relay click when I probe with power on the connector. Do you think If I were to find the relay I can trace my cut wires from there or rather just connect after the relay. What number are output wires on relay? I can't test these for power as I will have to wait for the engine to almost overheat. Is there a proper way of identifying these wires cold? I have seen a couple of loose or cut wires near the fan but I don't know a way for identifying them as they will only get hot when the fan is supposed to kicking in.

I suspect so, locate the relay box and it should be labelled, I think it's 3 relays, and with colour coding and wire thickness you should be able to see which one belongs to the main fan. I think that is the only place where the wires could be cut, because as far as I know there is no other switch besides the CTS and the relay, I do stand to be corrected though, the bakkie could be slightly different.

 

[Zakhele001]

Do you know where the fan relay is? I think that is where the fan is feeding from, maybe if you go straight there you will find the cut wires? On my hatch it is unde the wiper cover thing on the driver's side.

Thanks for that. The relays are in a small rectangular box where the break booster pipe comes out but my best short will be to test the wires that get hot when the engine is getting too hot. Normally my thermometer stays at a quarter way. I will have a lot of play time before it gets mid way.
Thank you for your quick inputs.

 

[TheChamp]

Thanks for that. The relays are in a small rectangular box where the break booster pipe comes out but my best short will be to test the wires that get hot when the engine is getting too hot. Normally my thermometer stays at a quarter way. I will have a lot of play time before it gets mid way.
Thank you for your quick inputs.

Yep, that's the one, does yours have an aircon? If not that's at least one less relay to test, could be two less since it also won't have the extra fan.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Did you consider maybe the thermostat is going or the car is soon to pop a gasket and that’s why the fan keeps running?

 

[Zakhele001]

Yep, that's the one, does yours have an aircon? If not that's at least one less relay to test, could be two less since it also won't have the extra fan.

Has aircon and everything. Good news though, It struck me at night that actually I cut the fan wires just close to the fan as the fan plug was not working and my car was starting to overheat then bridged just before the fan and naturally when taking off fan for engine overhaul I just cut off the connection. I just checked, the fan plug is still there, with my bridging stubs, sure there is a disconnection inside.
That line where you said about forgetfulness really kick started my memory. I thought harder about the events leading to me cutting the wires and everything came back...

 

[Zakhele001]

Did you consider maybe the thermostat is going or the car is soon to pop a gasket and that’s why the fan keeps running?

Thanks for your contribution. My fan kept running because it somehow established a permanent earth on the coolant temp sensor, as I was already connected directly to the battery positive, there was a permanent complete circuit.
Unlike the VWs and other cars, these corsas wont start the fan when the key is off even when the engine is still too hot. My fan continued even after switching off the engine.
In other words if you have this model of corsa and you arrive at your destination and your fan is running you should wait a little until the fan switches off then you can switch off the ignition, otherwise the engine will overheat and no fan will auto kick in to save it!!!

 

[Zakhele001]

Yep, that's the one, does yours have an aircon? If not that's at least one less relay to test, could be two less since it also won't have the extra fan.

With the fan issue sorted, would you know what the little device in the engine compartment mounted after the passenger wheel arch is for? It has two thin vacuum pipes and a green little finger like knob or fitting. Also there is a funny shaped big reservoir tank infront of it. What is this second tank for against the fender? I hear a pump like sound in this tank when I turn on ignition.
Sorry its my first time using this corsa model. I had a diesel 1.7D which had overheating problems then I bought a 1.4 no aircon, no power steering. The 1.4 was the best, simple, easy on fuel and it never broke down. One old client of mine called the 1.4 an AK-47, simple to operate and almost impossible to jam..!

 

[TheChamp]

With the fan issue sorted, would you know what the little device in the engine compartment mounted after the passenger wheel arch is for? It has two thin vacuum pipes and a green little finger like knob or fitting. Also there is a funny shaped big reservoir tank infront of it. What is this second tank for against the fender? I hear a pump like sound in this tank when I turn on ignition.
Sorry its my first time using this corsa model. I had a diesel 1.7D which had overheating problems then I bought a 1.4 no aircon, no power steering. The 1.4 was the best, simple, easy on fuel and it never broke down. One old client of mine called the 1.4 an AK-47, simple to operate and almost impossible to jam..!

I think I know the valve thing you are talking about, but I am not sure about the reservoir? Post a pic when you get a chance.

 

[TheChamp]

The ABS pump perhaps?

 

[SauRoNZA]

Thanks for your contribution. My fan kept running because it somehow established a permanent earth on the coolant temp sensor, as I was already connected directly to the battery positive, there was a permanent complete circuit.
Unlike the VWs and other cars, these corsas wont start the fan when the key is off even when the engine is still too hot. My fan continued even after switching off the engine.
In other words if you have this model of corsa and you arrive at your destination and your fan is running you should wait a little until the fan switches off then you can switch off the ignition, otherwise the engine will overheat and no fan will auto kick in to save it!!!

Definitely got a hack job model there.

I had a 2001 Corsa and the fan worked like any other car should turning on and off as required as determined by the thermostat.

Fix the cause, not the symptoms.

 

[SHL]

Thanks for your contribution. My fan kept running because it somehow established a permanent earth on the coolant temp sensor, as I was already connected directly to the battery positive, there was a permanent complete circuit.
Unlike the VWs and other cars, these corsas wont start the fan when the key is off even when the engine is still too hot. My fan continued even after switching off the engine.
In other words if you have this model of corsa and you arrive at your destination and your fan is running you should wait a little until the fan switches off then you can switch off the ignition, otherwise the engine will overheat and no fan will auto kick in to save it!!!

 

[Zakhele001]

The ABS pump perhaps?

View attachment 1342308

Thanks. A little difference in arrangement. As you can see from my pics the bottle along the fender with a smaller yellow cap. On my other corsas the wiper tank was undercover next to wiper blades like your battery. As I could not find the wiper tank there, I'm starting to think that this could be it. Then what's with the motor sound when I turn ignition on with wipers off?
Can you see the small unit I was referring to with two small vacuum pipes and an electric connector also mounted on fender before this bottle.
..... see on my attached pics

 

[TheChamp]

Thanks. A little difference in arrangement. As you can see from my pics the bottle along the fender with a smaller yellow cap. On my other corsas the wiper tank was undercover next to wiper blades like your battery. As I could not find the wiper tank there, I'm starting to think that this could be it. Then what's with the motor sound when I turn ignition on with wipers off?
Can you see the small unit I was referring to with two small vacuum pipes and an electric connectorView attachment 1342376View attachment 1342378View attachment 1342380 also mounted on fender before this bottle.
..... see on my attached pics

Yes, I knew exactly the valve thing you were talking about, it's the reservoir part I did not get.

No idea what the valve thing is for, unless you were talking about the window washer reservoir? Which I think has absolutely nothing to do with the other part.

 

[TheChamp]

Is it the old bakkie you have? Looks exactly like my Corsa hatch. I will check the fan wiring routing for you later.