Doing my first oil change

Most dealers charge around R2.5k+ these days for an oil + filter change that costs 20mins in time and they get oil in bulk and spares at wholesale so the parts cost is around R300-400.
And they'll torque your sump plug to 150Nm for free!

Naaiers of note!
 
Gud and Fram is the same, just different numbers.
I get hx7.
I read the book, and if book say 4.2 liter oil, I remove 750mlfrom the can, then drop complete can into engine, keep the 750 for top up.
Some people say you need to replace the copper washer at the oil nut.
On you car, you will not need a jack [suv]
 
upup said:
Gud and Fram is the same, just different numbers.
I get hx7.
I read the book, and if book say 4.2 liter oil, I remove 750mlfrom the can, then drop complete can into engine, keep the 750 for top up.
Some people say you need to replace the copper washer at the oil nut.
On you car, you will not need a jack [suv]
Click to expand...
Have you been drinking? Your sentences lacks quality :D
 
airborne said:
Most dealers charge around R2.5k+ these days for an oil + filter change that costs 20mins in time and they get oil in bulk and spares at wholesale so the parts cost is around R300-400.
And they'll torque your sump plug to 150Nm for free!

Naaiers of note!
Click to expand...

And strip the bolts in your sump guard like pros.
 
upup said:
On you car, you will not need a jack [suv]
Click to expand...
Show me an x-trail with enough ground clearance to comfortably change the oil without lifting the car up and i’ll do the work for free.

My SUV has one of the highest ground clearances of all the vehicles in it’s class and you can’t get in there.

X-Trail has 150mm ground clearance. You have to be a seriously anorexic **** to make
that happen.
 
upup said:
Gud and Fram is the same, just different numbers.
I get hx7.
I read the book, and if book say 4.2 liter oil, I remove 750mlfrom the can, then drop complete can into engine, keep the 750 for top up.
Some people say you need to replace the copper washer at the oil nut.
On you car, you will not need a jack [suv]
Click to expand...

That's a good one, I hate constantly checking how much I've poured out by squinting at the vague marking on the container.

If you torque to the factory spec you only need to replace the sump washer every 3rd or so time.

maxxis said:
Show me an x-trail with enough ground clearance to comfortably change the oil without lifting the car up and i’ll do the work for free.

My SUV has one of the highest ground clearances of all the vehicles in it’s class and you can’t get in there.

X-Trail has 150mm ground clearance. You have to be a seriously anorexic **** to make
that happen.
Click to expand...

A trick I learnt a while back is to drive the front wheels onto wooden blocks and that gets you just high enough to get easy access to do an oil change without the hassle of needing to get the jack and stands out.
 
maxxis said:
Show me an x-trail with enough ground clearance to comfortably change the oil without lifting the car up and i’ll do the work for free.

My SUV has one of the highest ground clearances of all the vehicles in it’s class and you can’t get in there.

X-Trail has 150mm ground clearance. You have to be a seriously anorexic **** to make
that happen.
Click to expand...
I do the Chinese' Polo without a jack...
 
TheChamp said:
No, unless getting burnt by the hot oil is what you are going for. Engine just needs to be warned slightly as said.
Click to expand...
I was going to add that…. 99% of the time a DIY oil change results in an oily hand. I’ve had an oily armpit before. Imagine the engine was at operating temp. Jeez
 
Here is my 2c, bearing in mind I change my own oil every 10,000km on my Alfa Romeo Giulietta.

1. I am a fan of Motul and LiquiMoly (because they actually meet the specs required for my car). I see that there is no particular spec for the Nissan like there is for BMW, Alfa, Merc, etc. This is good news for you because you can shop around. I would personally recommend LiquiMoly TopTec 4100 5W40, or Motul X-Clean 5W40. Both are full synthetic oils.
2. Your car requires synthetic oil, so stick with it.
3. As others have pointed out, get a sumpie. I like to empty my old oil into an empty oil bottle and then clean out the sumpie with dishwashing liquid and water to keep it clean.
4. Oil filter - GUD Z350 (Midas will have it for you).

Now here is the pro-tip: DO NOT TOUCH THE SUMP PLUG!
The reason I suggest not touching the sump plug is because I recommend getting one of these: Oil Extractor Pump
Pull out the dip stick, push the pipe down the dip stick hole and turn it on. Gets out the same amount as you would if you pulled the sump plug, but it means you don't risk ****ing up the plug or the thread, and you don't need to replace the washer. Its worth the money and takes 2-3min to drain the oil.
I got myself that pump after I had limited movement after recovering from COVID. Even my mechanic has realised its a life saver.

Regarding dirty hands... get yourself a box of nitrile gloves
Idle car for 2-3min to get the oil just a little bit thinner and easier to extract (or drain).
 
Last edited:
TheChamp said:
No, unless getting burnt by the hot oil is what you are going for. Engine just needs to be warmed slightly as said.
Click to expand...
The issue with the engine oil being "slighty" hot is, its almost impossible to replicate the same result each time, because all you are doing is guessing.

The result can be inefficient draining of old oil and mixing old with new.
And overfilling if you don't measure the old oil prior to putting new oil in.
 
killerbyte said:
Here is my 2c, bearing in mind I change my own oil every 10,000km on my Alfa Romeo Giulietta.

1. I am a fan of Motul and LiquiMoly (because they actually meet the specs required for my car). I see that there is no particular spec for the Nissan like there is for BMW, Alfa, Merc, etc. This is good news for you because you can shop around. I would personally recommend LiquiMoly TopTec 4100 5W40, or Motul X-Clean 5W40. Both are full synthetic oils.
2. Your car requires synthetic oil, so stick with it.
3. As others have pointed out, get a sumpie. I like to empty my old oil into an empty oil bottle and then clean out the sumpie with dishwashing liquid and water to keep it clean.
4. Oil filter - GUD Z350 (Midas will have it for you).

Now here is the pro-tip: DO NOT TOUCH THE SUMP PLUG!
The reason I suggest not touching the sump plug is because I recommend getting one of these: Oil Extractor Pump
Pull out the dip stick, push the pipe down the dip stick hole and turn it on. Gets out the same amount as you would if you pulled the sump plug, but it means you don't risk ****ing up the plug or the thread, and you don't need to replace the washer. Its worth the money and takes 2-3min to drain the oil.
I got myself that pump after I had limited movement after recovering from COVID. Even my mechanic has realised its a life saver.

Regarding dirty hands... get yourself a box of nitrile gloves
Click to expand...
I'm intrigued but his oil extractor pump.. Does it really get all the oil out and does the pipe really fit down the dipstick tube?
 
airborne said:
Most dealers charge around R2.5k+ these days for an oil + filter change that costs 20mins in time and they get oil in bulk and spares at wholesale so the parts cost is around R300-400.
And they'll torque your sump plug to 150Nm for free!

Naaiers of note!
Click to expand...
Big facts. 2hrs labour for an oil change my foot!
Even the most inexperienced guy wouldn’t take 2hrs.
 
Tman* said:
The issue with the engine oil being "slighty" hot is, its almost impossible to replicate the same result each time, because all you are doing is guessing.

The result can be inefficient draining of old oil and mixing old with new.
And overfilling if you don't measure the old oil prior to putting new oil in.
Click to expand...
You are complicating a very simple thing, oil at operating temperature is hot, as in boiling hot, everything on the car is hot and you want to get under the car and do things?

Just warm the engine slightly, drain the oil and remove the oil filter, put in new oil and filter. The manual usually tell you how much oil you need to put in, put that amount in, run the car to operating temperature, check the oil again and top up if necessary.
 
killerbyte said:
Here is my 2c, bearing in mind I change my own oil every 10,000km on my Alfa Romeo Giulietta.

1. I am a fan of Motul and LiquiMoly (because they actually meet the specs required for my car). I see that there is no particular spec for the Nissan like there is for BMW, Alfa, Merc, etc. This is good news for you because you can shop around. I would personally recommend LiquiMoly TopTec 4100 5W40, or Motul X-Clean 5W40. Both are full synthetic oils.
2. Your car requires synthetic oil, so stick with it.
3. As others have pointed out, get a sumpie. I like to empty my old oil into an empty oil bottle and then clean out the sumpie with dishwashing liquid and water to keep it clean.
4. Oil filter - GUD Z350 (Midas will have it for you).

Now here is the pro-tip: DO NOT TOUCH THE SUMP PLUG!
The reason I suggest not touching the sump plug is because I recommend getting one of these: Oil Extractor Pump
Pull out the dip stick, push the pipe down the dip stick hole and turn it on. Gets out the same amount as you would if you pulled the sump plug, but it means you don't risk ****ing up the plug or the thread, and you don't need to replace the washer. Its worth the money and takes 2-3min to drain the oil.
I got myself that pump after I had limited movement after recovering from COVID. Even my mechanic has realised its a life saver.

Regarding dirty hands... get yourself a box of nitrile gloves
Idle car for 2-3min to get the oil just a little bit thinner and easier to extract (or drain).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the write up. Planning to go Adendorff. So might as well get the the pump as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X