Figure 8 power cords

bwana said:
I used it for the stereo and the sub.
Click to expand...
Cool. Then all should be good. I will test each plug on the cheapest item to replace first. Haha. Just for incase. Not the first time I am removing 2 prong plugs and adding a 3 prong. The 2 prongs are a pain the bum. Unless I can replace the specific wall plug with one that has like 4x 2 prongs. Would be nice for chargers. Wall plugs that have USB often don't output enough amp (not the same as the chargers at least. The one we used on Australia took 8 hours to charge 10 percent and only kept my tablet alive - didn't charge it)
 
Tulipdame said:
Ag wait I am thinking of my circuit breakers.
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See the max output in watts for each device (should be on the back) add them all up and divide by 220.

Should be like 3.25A max. You could run a fridge, tv, Playstation and Hi-Fi off of one plug. Theoretically. As long as the above calculation doesn't go over 16 Amps

Just remember, brown is live and blue is neutral.
 
Rickster said:
See the max output in watts for each device (should be on the back) add them all up and divide by 220.

Should be like 3.25A max. You could run a fridge, tv, Playstation and Hi-Fi off of one plug. Theoretically. As long as the above calculation doesn't go over 16 Amps

Just remember, brown is live and blue is neutral.
Click to expand...
Well, even if you only add the maximum amp load of a figure 8, x 3 it gives 7.5amp. none of the items should go over the 2.5amp the cable can take. Or am I being too dumb?

Yep. I always use a picture grid, just for safety
 
I personally do not like multi cables and prefer to keep devices separate with and adaptor. In any case I make use of clear line surge protected multiplugs which means one single cable to the wall socket with separate sockets for each appliance. Go for professionally made multi cables if you want to rather than home made ones.
Try Communica in Midrand, but you just as well install a Clear line class II surge protected muliplug and get more value out of the exercise
 
Tulipdame said:
Yes I saw that one, but I kind of feel the extra kettle cord will be redundant. Would have been fine if I still had the old Xbox one - although that one will be fine for my husband. His setup has the same TV as mine and an original Xbox One (figure 8 spare for when he wants to play PS3).
I might get this one too.
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Just add THIS to give you 3x fig8
 
Geoff.D said:
Avoid feeding a fridge etc from the same wall socket used for electronics if at all possible.
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I keep fridges on their own plugs, away from any other appliances.

Can you link an example of the clearline one you are talking about?
 
Any places around Royal Reef West that might sell the 3 figure 8 power cord or something close to it? Seeing as I am going to be on Jhb anyway
 
Tulipdame said:
I am in Welkom, Free State area. But I am going to Johannesburg this weekend, unsure of address until this afternoon. Do you want specific area in Jhb?
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I would have suggested to get it from this guys, but they are only open on Monday.
760462

The other option would be to buy for every device one of these:
760464

and then buy daisy chained kettle cords:
760466
 
Rickster said:
Just remember, brown is live and blue is neutral.
Click to expand...
Obviously a good habit to get into but it makes no practical difference with the figure 8s
 
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bwana said:
Obviously a good habit to get into but it makes no difference with the figure 8s
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It should not, IFF the double insulation is properly implemented. But, as we have seen on MC decoders, it makes one hell of a difference ensuring that each device connected to an MC decoder is connected exactly the same way, I.e. All the "neutrals" are connected to the same chassis point.
Noise performance improves and the standing, 110V that appears on the chassis of the decoders is reduced or disappears altogether.
I have taken to marking all figure 8 cords appropriately and always plug them in the same way Neutral on the side of the connection on the decoder which as zero resistance between the pin and the chassis.
 
gfmalan said:
I would have suggested to get it from this guys, but they are only open on Monday.
View attachment 760462

The other option would be to buy for every device one of these:
View attachment 760464

and then buy daisy chained kettle cords:
View attachment 760466
Click to expand...
This idea also seems viable. Thank you. Now just to find a place that sells them. I basically have used Takealot. Browsed raru, awx, wootware, landmarkpc (closed down) and loot.
Any other suggestions? Unless there is a place open in Jhb tomorrow where I can buy?
 
Geoff.D said:
It should not, IFF the double insulation is properly implemented. But, as we have seen on MC decoders, it makes one hell of a difference ensuring that each device connected to an MC decoder is connected exactly the same way, I.e. All the "neutrals" are connected to the same chassis point.
Noise performance improves and the standing, 110V that appears on the chassis of the decoders is reduced or disappears altogether.
I have taken to marking all figure 8 cords appropriately and always plug them in the same way Neutral on the side of the connection on the decoder which as zero resistance between the pin and the chassis.
Click to expand...
Question:
On a figure 8 cale, how do you determine which one is neutral and live when plugging it in? The actual sealed cable. Or does that not make a difference?
 
Rickster said:
Just remember, brown is live and blue is neutral.
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Never assume the wiring is correct. Always use a neon mains testing screwdriver to find live. Dual sided janus couplers ( the female part of an extension cord) will have the live on the left on one side and right on the other.
 
Yup, You need a multimeter or as Dairyfarmer has posted some or other mains testing screwdriver.
 
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Geoff.D said:
Yup, You need a multimeter or as Dairyframer (I frame pictures of dairies, lol) has posted some or other mains testing screwdriver.
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The screwdriver is quicker and easier. To use a multimeter, connect the black to earth and the red to one of the other 2 wires. If the voltage is 220 or 240 then that is the live. If it is very low, like 10 volts, then that is the neutral.
 
Dairyfarmer said:
The screwdriver is quicker and easier. To use a multimeter, connect the black to earth and the red to one of the other 2 wires. If the voltage is 220 or 240 then that is the live. If it is very low, like 10 volts, then that is the neutral.
Click to expand...

Oops ! ( fixed tks)
 
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