Flat battery

Fleming said:
Modern batteries also seem to die without warning. A few weeks ago my car was fine one day and the next morning it was dead. Wouldnt even turn the engine a little. New battery and she was perfect.
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That's what winter does to old batteries. Time for a new one is the only answer.
 
Stokstert said:
That's what winter does to old batteries. Time for a new one is the only answer.
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a Battery expert told me that batteries dying in winter is a myth. Batteries get hurt during the hot summer, and only show there pain during those winter morning.
 
Fleming said:
Modern batteries also seem to die without warning. A few weeks ago my car was fine one day and the next morning it was dead. Wouldnt even turn the engine a little. New battery and she was perfect.
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Batteries haven't changed. It's modern car electronics that have.

Modern engine management systems can work on a varied voltage supply and regulate the voltage it so the car always gets consistent power, until the voltage dips below a certain threshold where the ECU simply won't start the car.
 
genetic said:
Batteries haven't changed. It's modern car electronics that have.

Modern engine management systems can work on a varied voltage supply and regulate the voltage it so the car always gets consistent power, until the voltage dips below a certain threshold where the ECU simply won't start the car.
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Friend off mine installed a external volt meter into his battery golf cart, to show him what is going on.
 
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I purchased an replacement Exide 636C battery for my car from Battery Centre in Edenvale in mid-December 2017.

Since lockdown last March, seeing as my annual driving distance travelled (around 11,000 kms or so) has diminished significantly as a result - it's now mostly only short trips of between 5 to 15 kms every 10 days or so to go to the supermarket or do errands - this battery now struggles to start my car in the colder Winter ambient temperatures, often needing a jump- or push-start after standing idle for a week or so.

Looks like I will need a new replacement battery soon - plus a C-Tek battery charger for it as well, to keep it topped up when I am not driving the car.
 
Ivan Leon said:
I purchased an replacement Exide 636C battery for my car from Battery Centre in Edenvale in mid-December 2017.

Since lockdown last March, seeing as my annual driving distance travelled (around 11,000 kms or so) has diminished significantly as a result - it's now mostly only short trips of between 5 to 15 kms every 10 days or so to go to the supermarket or do errands - this battery now struggles to start my car in the colder Winter ambient temperatures, often needing a jump- or push-start after standing idle for a week or so.

Looks like I will need a new replacement battery soon - plus a C-Tek battery charger for it as well, to keep it topped up when I am not driving the car.
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I have an Optimate which I used to keep tha battery topped up. It came with a quick connect and the normal clips.
 
This morning, start the car, drove out of garage, reverse, unpack stuff, start the car, but it refused to start. Jump start it and drove straight to battery center, they replaced it, R1400 later, start like usual, but was hoping to see a, please replace your battery, warning
 
So I believe my battery is dying (car is still starting, but making long sluggish sounds)...been offered a 'Topstart' brand battery for R1000...does anyone have any advice/experience wrt that brand? Alternatives?
 
Currantly said:
So I believe my battery is dying (car is still starting, but making long sluggish sounds)...been offered a 'Topstart' brand battery for R1000...does anyone have any advice/experience wrt that brand? Alternatives?
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12 month guarantee? From reputable place? If so, no worries.
 
upup said:
a Dead battery cost about R100 , that is what battery center give you. But on you tube there is someone , if you pay him he can revive any dead battery .
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Dixon will give you R250 and R500 for a truck battery.
 
Driving short trips are bad for batteries. Once a week drive it on the long open stretch.
Get a battery blanket.
Get the RIGHT CCA for your car... this is vital.
 
Having being caught out several times in the past with with a sudden dead battery I am looking at getting one of those car battery jumpers. I see you get one with a built-in battery (that can also charge other devices) or one that uses capacitors. Has anybody used one of these battery jumpers before or have any recommendations on good brands?
Something like this - https://www.takealot.com/all?_sb=1&...8670f6&qsearch=car battery jumper power banks
(PS obviously not the jumper leads)
 
Drifter said:
Dixon will give you R250 and R500 for a truck battery.
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I buy directly from importers and they don't want the old battery back, so why parts shops want old batteries or charge you extra is a scam in my eyes. I collect the old batteries and take them to a scrap yard and get about R 11 per KG.
 
dillinger said:
so why parts shops want old batteries or charge you extra is a scam in my eyes.
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Howsit dillinger.
I run a small battery operation from home, and also used to own my own battery shop in Cape Town a few years ago (till the rent killed me). Certain suppliers have different price lists. One with scrap and one without. The battery wholesalers want casings back because they can recycle about 95% of the battery into new batteries. So the value lies in the recyclable nature of the casings and content. Some shops abuse it, and others are above board.

Hope this maybe sheds some light on the "scam" idea.
Regards, Greg
 
Purchased a battery (616C) from the Automobile Association in June last year. All went well until February this year. To date the AA had to boost the battery on four occasions. On the 3rd occasion, the battery was taken to the Manufacturer, National Battery, to be tested. The prognosis was that there is no problem with the battery.

On the 4th occasion, Tuesday last week, the AA technician did a parasitic drain test on the vehicle. The test proved that there was no battery drain on the vehicle.

On Monday morning, there was a slight hesitation on startup. Took the car on a long run and sped up to 120 k’s. On returning, disconnected the battery cables and tested the battery with a multimeter. Reading was 12.31. On Tuesday afternoon the reading dropped to 12.17, this morning it was 12.14.

Based on the above drop in readings, can I use this info to prove to the AA that the battery is faulty?
 
Scorpio7771 said:
Purchased a battery (616C) from the Automobile Association in June last year. All went well until February this year. To date the AA had to boost the battery on four occasions. On the 3rd occasion, the battery was taken to the Manufacturer, National Battery, to be tested. The prognosis was that there is no problem with the battery.

On the 4th occasion, Tuesday last week, the AA technician did a parasitic drain test on the vehicle. The test proved that there was no battery drain on the vehicle.

On Monday morning, there was a slight hesitation on startup. Took the car on a long run and sped up to 120 k’s. On returning, disconnected the battery cables and tested the battery with a multimeter. Reading was 12.31. On Tuesday afternoon the reading dropped to 12.17, this morning it was 12.14.

Based on the above drop in readings, can I use this info to prove to the AA that the battery is faulty?
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You need to charge it properly first, 12.31V after a long drive is not good, there is just no way such a battery passed all the tests it is said to have passed, problem is convincing AA of your tests, it would be better to take it to a battery place for proper testing and a report to show to the AA.
 
I read this another forum. A guy had a similar problem and it turned out to be a bad cell. Even with the bad cell, the battery was tested over and over again and passed 100% by the manufacturer.
 

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Got the above powerbank recently and used it the other day to jump start my mothers car that had been standing idle too long.
 
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