Is it for the cricket or rugby?
Cricket. Test match starting on the 11th
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Cricket. Test match starting on the 11th
mercurial
MyBB Legend
DTBA
Executive Member
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My rig for the SA vs NZ test next week
just tell my what if Amla hits that little red ball into the lens
Occupational hazzard. I've had a batsman drive a six straight down the pitch onto my macbook pro a couple of seasons ago - that's what insurance is for.just tell my what if Amla hits that little red ball into the lens
DTBA
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Occupational hazzard. I've had a batsman drive a six straight down the pitch onto my macbook pro a couple of seasons ago - that's what insurance is for.
Still never want that to happen to me.I think I saw u, do u put a towel or something over that lens?
Nah - Canon paints the lenses white/beige so heat generated by the sun isn't an issue.
DTBA
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Nah - Canon paints the lenses white/beige so heat generated by the sun isn't an issue.
Then it must have been one of the other oaks. DO u take something to put over your head
kinda gets hot out there
Mike Hoxbig
Honorary Master
That's not a lens, it's a freakin telescope
DTBA
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That's not a lens, it's a freakin telescope
And a small little diamond to
acidrain
Executive Member
I can only assume questions like these belong here so here it goes.
Question: How does one decide which ISO to use for a shot.
As far as my tiny knowledge is concerned this is related to the light sensitivity of the camera but I'm no where sure how to utilize it correctly.
Question: How does one decide which ISO to use for a shot.
As far as my tiny knowledge is concerned this is related to the light sensitivity of the camera but I'm no where sure how to utilize it correctly.
You try to keep it as low as possible while maintaining the desired aperture and/or shutter speed.
nanonyous
Expert Member
ISO is primarily going to affect noise, which will in turn affect contrast for the resulting photo.
You generally first decide what shutter speed and aperture you need for whatever you're taking a photo of, then based on the resulting ISO setting chosen by the camera, decide whether the noise and contrast in the resulting photo will be acceptable against the effective depth of field (from aperture) and motion blur (or lack thereof, from shutter speed).
You generally first decide what shutter speed and aperture you need for whatever you're taking a photo of, then based on the resulting ISO setting chosen by the camera, decide whether the noise and contrast in the resulting photo will be acceptable against the effective depth of field (from aperture) and motion blur (or lack thereof, from shutter speed).
acidrain
Executive Member
Cool think I got it. So if its unacceptable you adjust? Higher for more light and lower for less correct noting that the higher the ISO the more noise you will receive?
Also noise, I assume this is what gives that grainy look in most photo's?
Correct me if I'm wrong as I'm still just learning. Having a blast so far draining the hell outta these batteries
Also noise, I assume this is what gives that grainy look in most photo's?
Correct me if I'm wrong as I'm still just learning. Having a blast so far draining the hell outta these batteries
nanonyous
Expert Member
Higher ISO means more light and more noise, correct. You can, with many software packages, turn the green+red digital noise into black and white grain instead, while in some packages depending on the amount of correction you apply, it'll try to adopt the surrounding colours to turn the noise into effective 'detail'.
Unfortunately, the detail behind that noise is seldom recoverable since the camera's sensor quite simply didn't know what was there. Software is only using an estimation to try and recover it.
Digital coloured noise will also drastically hamper the effective dynamic range and colour representation capability of your camera, as to some extent the green and red noise will, in a manner of speaking, be turning the 'noiseless' neighbouring pixels into a muddy brown colour versus their real colour.
For an example of this, try taking the same photo with ISO 100, ISO 800 and ISO 12800 or higher using your camera, then compare the resulting photos after applying colour noise reduction.
As a rule of thumb you want less noise in your original photo if you can get it. You can always add grain afterwards if you really want to, or want to experiment. That being said, it'll be healthy for you to instead learn how you can use noise you can't otherwise avoid to give your photos more character - that is, learn to live with it. Otherwise you might find yourself turning into a no-noise purist that wants to get the camera with the greatest high-ISO performance for no other reason than that high-ISO performance, only to find that it doesn't make your photos any better on its own (unless it does, assuming you take primarily low-light photos to begin with).
Unfortunately, the detail behind that noise is seldom recoverable since the camera's sensor quite simply didn't know what was there. Software is only using an estimation to try and recover it.
Digital coloured noise will also drastically hamper the effective dynamic range and colour representation capability of your camera, as to some extent the green and red noise will, in a manner of speaking, be turning the 'noiseless' neighbouring pixels into a muddy brown colour versus their real colour.
For an example of this, try taking the same photo with ISO 100, ISO 800 and ISO 12800 or higher using your camera, then compare the resulting photos after applying colour noise reduction.
As a rule of thumb you want less noise in your original photo if you can get it. You can always add grain afterwards if you really want to, or want to experiment. That being said, it'll be healthy for you to instead learn how you can use noise you can't otherwise avoid to give your photos more character - that is, learn to live with it. Otherwise you might find yourself turning into a no-noise purist that wants to get the camera with the greatest high-ISO performance for no other reason than that high-ISO performance, only to find that it doesn't make your photos any better on its own (unless it does, assuming you take primarily low-light photos to begin with).
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Cool think I got it. So if its unacceptable you adjust? Higher for more light and lower for less correct noting that the higher the ISO the more noise you will receive?
Also noise, I assume this is what gives that grainy look in most photo's?
Correct me if I'm wrong as I'm still just learning. Having a blast so far draining the hell outta these batteries
Pretty much, but remember, even though you want to keep your ISO as low as possible, it's better to have a slightly noisy picture than a blurry one.
GarethC
Well-Known Member
I've got a Sigma 18-200 IS lens that is in need of a little TLC. Can anyone recommend somewhere I can send a lens in for repairs? Preferably in PE or EL, otherwise I can probably make arrangements for somewhere further afield.
Thanks
Thanks
Try Derrick at PhotoHire CC or Iky who lives just off upper seaview road. Alternatively, if it's under warranty I can give you the local sigma rep's details.
GarethC
Well-Known Member
Thanks, will try get hold of them.
koffiejunkie
Executive Member
Interesting. I thought the lens firmware had the identification. Maybe the contacts need cleaning?