Home Automation - Smartkit

[Sinbad]

I'd see what gpio pins are used for the temp probe on the th, and then solder the temp probe into the same pins on the sv, and then tell tasmota it's a th.

 

[spiff]

Which firmware? Stock?

Stock out the box

 

[SmartKit]

Stock out the box

Check the iPhone isn't connecting on 5Ghz to the network.

 

[SauRoNZA]

I'd see what gpio pins are used for the temp probe on the th, and then solder the temp probe into the same pins on the sv, and then tell tasmota it's a th.

Don’t think you even need to tell it it’s a TH.

I recall the sensors are listed for gpio even on the basic.

Boards are probably identical except for some structure modifications and accommodating the 3.5mm input on the casing.

****

Oh sorry you meant SV vs TH. I read Basic vs TH.

Still the same might very well apply in Tasmora in regards to just selecting the sensor.

 

[spiff]

Thanks will do.

Check the iPhone isn't connecting on 5Ghz to the network.

 

[Sinbad]

Don’t think you even need to tell it it’s a TH.

I recall the sensors are listed for gpio even on the basic.

Boards are probably identical except for some structure modifications and accommodating the 3.5mm input on the casing.

****

Oh sorry you meant SV vs TH. I read Basic vs TH.

Still the same might very well apply in Tasmora in regards to just selecting the sensor.

You need to tell tasmota it's a th so it reads the gpio and interprets it correctly as temperature. Otherwise it doesn't read the pins at all.

 

[spiff]

What Android phone do you have?

LG G3

 

[Dolby]

LG G3

Ah ... My line of thinking was the same as phaktza - I thought you may have an older 2.4,GHz only phone, which is why it worked ... And the iPhone was connecting at 5Ghz.

 

[spiff]

Ah ... My line of thinking was the same as phaktza - I thought you may have an older 2.4,GHz only phone, which is why it worked ... And the iPhone was connecting at 5Ghz.

thanks - my phone & sonoffs work fine.

is it his iphone or his router?

 

[Dolby]

thanks - my phone & sonoffs work fine.

is it his iphone or his router?

Yea you have a newer phone - so not that. I thought it could be that though :

If his router has both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz concurrently and pushes his phone to 5Ghz (it's faster), then his phone won't see the Sonoff : the phone needs to be on 2.4Ghz.

I needed to create two SSIDs for each frequency and connect to 2.4Ghz for the setup, before changing back to 5Ghz.

 

[spiff]

Yea you have a newer phone - so not that. I thought it could be that though :

If his router has both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz concurrently and pushes his phone to 5Ghz (it's faster), then his phone won't see the Sonoff : the phone needs to be on 2.4Ghz.

I needed to create two SSIDs for each frequency and connect to 2.4Ghz for the setup, before changing back to 5Ghz.

well if that the case then he is fooked - I'm not going to screw with his network.

 

[calypso]

Just turn off the 5ghz network while setting up then turn back on after.
On my network I know the Apple products are very aggressive towards choosing 5ghz if they can.

 

[Dolby]

well if that the case then he is fooked - I'm not going to screw with his network.

It doesn't sound like the case (else your phone would most likely also hopped to 5Ghz and you'd battle). But in the slim chance it is that, you don't need to mess with the network.

You just switch the router to 2.4Ghz during the setup for a few minutes, connect, setup, switch back.

But you've setup already with your own phone - are you saying that he STILL can't operate? I've never heard of the issue

 

[SmartKit]

well if that the case then he is fooked - I'm not going to screw with his network.

Often routers will provide an option for both:

MyWifi
MyWifi_5G

Just make sure to select the 2.4Ghz network when connecting.

 

[Pho3nix]

I gave a sonoff basic to a mate of mine with an iphone.

he downloaded the required app for iphones but could not get the basic to link to his phone?

I connected to his wifi with his user name & password from my android phone and connected easily with the basic.

is there any issues when using iphones?

Nope. Managing mine on an iPhone 8

 

[spiff]

It doesn't sound like the case (else your phone would most likely also hopped to 5Ghz and you'd battle). But in the slim chance it is that, you don't need to mess with the network.

You just switch the router to 2.4Ghz during the setup for a few minutes, connect, setup, switch back.

But you've setup already with your own phone - are you saying that he STILL can't operate? I've never heard of the issue

my LG G3 & the sonoff works fine on his network.

he can't connect to the sonoff basic through his network. so could his phone be in 5g?

 

[CraZee]

I have tried using the onboard relay of the sonoff SV without success (in fact, I have melted one SV trying).

The problem is that the sonoff does not give the "NO" or "NC" signal, but rather passes the electricity on to the output side. Gate motor requires the use of a "NO" signal to be connected to the trigger input on the gate motor, in order for the gate to be, well, triggered (and thus opened or closed).

Sonoff basic and SV versions give the output in form of output electricity and not NO signal turning to closed by default.

One approach was/is to connect sonoff input + contact and output + contact to the gate trigger contacts (I am talking about the SV version now, which I have tried and melted the contacts on). Thus, when the sonoff SV is triggered, the input + and output + are shorted, which then triggers the trigger contact on gate motor (of course).

The problem with this approach is that the same + (coming from gate motor battery, and used as an input for the sonoff to function) is then effectively shorted directly to the gate motor's trigger contact (through the use of the sonoff SV) which then causes a short circuit within the gate motor. This is because this is also a "common +" on the gate motor.

The purpose of the additional relay is to physically separate the + on the gate motor battery (which is used to power the sonoff SV) and the trigger on the gate motor.

I am not sure if the above makes logical sense but that is the long and short of it.

[MENTION=111453]CraZee[/MENTION] if you have successfully managed to connect either the sonoff SV or sonoff basic without any additional relays, and it works, I would be most interested and grateful to hear how you have done it. thanks,

Maybe I'm missing something but the SV has an isolation function where you remove both resistors and the relay outputs are disconnected from the power supply.

https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_SV

Go look at the isolated mode section

 

[blueowl]

Maybe I'm missing something but the SV has an isolation function where you remove both resistors and the relay outputs are disconnected from the power supply.

https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_SV

Go look at the isolated mode section

I have indeed looked at the isolated mode section and am aware of what this does. There are 2 issues related to this:

1) The gate motor requires a short between COM and TRG contacts, not a 12V + and - input. How are you going to convert the 12V + and - output from SV to the gate motor trigger?
2) Even if you were to use the "isolated mode" (removing the 2 resistors etc.); I am assuming you would use the 220V AC source within the gate motor as an input to sonoff SV. Further, the 12VDC could be the "DC power supply" on the "secondary input" side. Thus, even though the two inputs are "isolated", the secondary input (12VDC) which comes from the gate motor battery (presumably) would still not be isolated from the sonoff SV output (which then causes the short with the gate motor trigger).

It would be much more clear what exactly you mean if you would provide some sort of schematics for all to see.

In addition, you stated:

Why have you added a relay to a SV. Why not just use a normal Sonoff Basic? I have done this with great success. I also linked the status LED through a optocoupler into a GPIO on the Sonoff which gives me reports if the gate is opening (led is flashing) or gate is open (Led is on)

I don't mean to start a flame war, but please tell us how you used the sonoff basic (presumably without a relay?) to achieve the same result; I would sincerely be most interested to learn this. Thank you,

 

[ebendl]

I have indeed looked at the isolated mode section and am aware of what this does. There are 2 issues related to this:

1) The gate motor requires a short between COM and TRG contacts, not a 12V + and - input. How are you going to convert the 12V + and - output from SV to the gate motor trigger?
2) Even if you were to use the "isolated mode" (removing the 2 resistors etc.); I am assuming you would use the 220V AC source within the gate motor as an input to sonoff SV. Further, the 12VDC could be the "DC power supply" on the "secondary input" side. Thus, even though the two inputs are "isolated", the secondary input (12VDC) which comes from the gate motor battery (presumably) would still not be isolated from the sonoff SV output (which then causes the short with the gate motor trigger).

It would be much more clear what exactly you mean if you would provide some sort of schematics for all to see.

This is exactly how I connected my Sonoff SV (with the resistors removed) to my Centurion D5 gate motor:



The trick is: the "-" terminals for the relay ("input" and "output") doesn't mean anything -- they're literally just connected to one another. It is the "+" terminals which is actually switched on/off by the relay, and thus you can safely connect those to COM and TRG on the gate board.

Furthermore, the 12v power supply in for my gate motor happily powers the original receiver and the SonoffSV.

You would have to physically isolate the relay from the 220v on the Sonoff Basic to be able to use it for a gate setup. Can probably try and strip the track on the board but I'd rather just use the SV since it is smaller and there should typically be a 12v supply (and it can use 5v and up).

I've managed to hook another one up to my Gemini motor too (well, originally I did, but then I discovered no wifi coverage there, so I moved it to a garage and rather broke open an extra remote and hooked that to the SV -- the SV is powered from an old USB power supply).

 

[blueowl]

This is exactly how I connected my Sonoff SV (with the resistors removed) to my Centurion D5 gate motor:

The trick is: the "-" terminals for the relay ("input" and "output") doesn't mean anything -- they're literally just connected to one another. It is the "+" terminals which is actually switched on/off by the relay, and thus you can safely connect those to COM and TRG on the gate board.

Furthermore, the 12v power supply in for my gate motor happily powers the original receiver and the SonoffSV.

You would have to physically isolate the relay from the 220v on the Sonoff Basic to be able to use it for a gate setup. Can probably try and strip the track on the board but I'd rather just use the SV since it is smaller and there should typically be a 12v supply (and it can use 5v and up).

I've managed to hook another one up to my Gemini motor too (well, originally I did, but then I discovered no wifi coverage there, so I moved it to a garage and rather broke open an extra remote and hooked that to the SV -- the SV is powered from an old USB power supply).

thank you [MENTION=7427]ebendl[/MENTION] for sharing your setup - initially when looking at it I was sceptical because i understood there needed to be an input on both the "input side" (on your drawing) and the "DC 5-24V power supply" side in order for SV to work with resistors removed. However, I can see how it would be possible for the SV to work as presented, and may give it a try when I find the time.

I agree on the issue of isolating the relay from the 220V input side on the basic; that is why I was wondering how the basic could be used without any modifications (i.e. use of relay).

Will report back if any issues come from my tinkering with the SV from your sketch above - thanks again!