Home Automation - Smartkit

ToxicBunny said:
A Geyser can theoretically draw more than 16A, so one of the POW R2s anywhere in that circuit would run a real risk of constant overload and be a huge fire hazard...

Putting it before the circuit breaker would be even more dangerous
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Exactly why I don't do these things before asking hahaha! So there isn't a real safe method to add a sonoff to a geyser?
 
Recallza said:
Exactly why I don't do these things before asking hahaha! So there isn't a real safe method to add a sonoff to a geyser?
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Technically no...

It would probably work, and probably work well for a very long time, but it would be pushing the Sonoff to its limits and beyond and be a major risk to your property.
 
My thermostat went on my geyser just yesterday and after replacing as one of the checks I measured the Amp's.
It is a 3Kw element and it drew 11.32A so you are within limit, but that being said I would prefer something beefier than the little relay on the Sonoff for switching especially as it might do it a number of times a day potentially( depending on your setup).
 
AntennaMan said:
My big concern with the pow R2 is the fact that it is rated for 16A with an operating temp of 0 to 40C. Your geyser should be protected by an appropriate circuit breaker, and not by the Sonoff.
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The Sonoff doesn't replace the breaker, it's added inline between the breaker and geyser. If you are concerned about the 16A rating, use a 2Kw element in the geyser. That only draws 9A.
 
R4m80 said:
The Sonoff doesn't replace the breaker, it's added inline between the breaker and geyser. If you are concerned about the 16A rating, use a 2Kw element in the geyser. That only draws 9A.
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You misunderstand me. What I meant was that in the geyser circuit, there must be a CB. The circuit breaker's job is to protect in over-current situations. If your geyser is similar to mine, you will probably have a 20A type B CB and 2.5mm^2 wire feeding the geyser (for 3kW). The type B CB will break at a current of around 60-100A (3-5 times the rated current). Although it will get hot, the 2.5mm^2 wire will probably survive a short time experiencing high current.

Now you introduce your POW R2 into this circuit. It is rated for 16A. What happens if, for some unknown reason, your element experiences a short-circuit? What happens with the Sonoff if 100A flows through before the CB breaks? Does it short or open? Does your home automation device now essentially become a fuse?

That is what I meant when I stated that it is the job of the CB to protect the circuit. I wasn't expecting the Sonoff to act as protection.
 
AntennaMan said:
You misunderstand me. What I meant was that in the geyser circuit, there must be a CB. The circuit breaker's job is to protect in over-current situations. If your geyser is similar to mine, you will probably have a 20A type B CB and 2.5mm^2 wire feeding the geyser (for 3kW). The type B CB will break at a current of around 60-100A (3-5 times the rated current). Although it will get hot, the 2.5mm^2 wire will probably survive a short time experiencing high current.

Now you introduce your POW R2 into this circuit. It is rated for 16A. What happens if, for some unknown reason, your element experiences a short-circuit? What happens with the Sonoff if 100A flows through before the CB breaks? Does it short or open? Does your home automation device now essentially become a fuse?

That is what I meant when I stated that it is the job of the CB to protect the circuit. I wasn't expecting the Sonoff to act as protection.
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Running a 100A through a Sonoff is not something I would want to see, I would expect it to totally give up the ghost and short out entirely...
 
ToxicBunny said:
Running a 100A through a Sonoff is not something I would want to see, I would expect it to totally give up the ghost and short out entirely...
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Exactly. And what happens to it in the event that a short occurs? Does it just turn into slag or does it turn into a firelighter?

Like someone mentioned, these things might be perfectly happy to run for years without any issue, but when the biggest single investment of my life hangs in the balance, it's not something I would take a chance with. If you are happy to take that chance, be my guest.
 
AntennaMan said:
Exactly. And what happens to it in the event that a short occurs? Does it just turn into slag or does it turn into a firelighter?

Like someone mentioned, these things might be perfectly happy to run for years without any issue, but when the biggest single investment of my life hangs in the balance, it's not something I would take a chance with. If you are happy to take that chance, be my guest.
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Have the geyser run to CB then sonoff then CB then to mains
 
alqassam said:
Have the geyser run to CB then sonoff then CB then to mains
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Don't do it.

Don't use the Sonoff for a geyser. It is rated for 16A but I don't believe that every single portion of it that experiences that surge can handle it. I connected my POW R2 to my kettle, the smallish connectors (where the wires go in) started burning and melting the case...

Use a proper certified geyser timer instead - don't ask me which one, but not the Sonoff

Edit: I am still using my Eskom issued geyser timer, it works well, only switches on twice a day, it's safe
 
The_MAC said:
Don't do it.

Don't use the Sonoff for a geyser. It is rated for 16A but I don't believe that every single portion of it that experiences that surge can handle it. I connected my POW R2 to my kettle, the smallish connectors (where the wires go in) started burning and melting the case...

Use a proper certified geyser timer instead - don't ask me which one, but not the Sonoff
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Issue is I don't have space in my dB. All slots are full so looking at alternatives. Geysermax is probably the best option.

I first want to change to solar and then use the timer.

Currently running 2 X 150l 1 on timer the other full on, Both at 55° .
 
alqassam said:
Issue is I don't have space in my dB. All slots are full so looking at alternatives. Geysermax is probably the best option.

I first want to change to solar and then use the timer.

Currently running 2 X 150l 1 on timer the other full on, Both at 55° .
Click to expand...

You do get surface mounted timers (not mounted on the din), so you could place it next to your DB,

I have one in my garage from the same brand as the house one, can't remember the name, it was Eskom issued.
 
Ordered a bunch of Xiaomi motion sensors and door sensors from AliExpress.
Also ordered the CC2531 for the Zigbee sniffing (With the necessary debugging cables for flashing)
And also the CC2530 with a HLK-PM03 to be used as a Zigbee Router (For increasing the network size).

My Sensors arrived. My Zigbee Router (cc2530) arrived.
Zigbee sniffer..... didnt arrive (lost in post by the looks of it ).

Super bummed, as without that one item i can't do squat with all my sensors. Now we wait.....
 
. Cool new feature

https://www.macrumors.com/2019/05/14/alexa-guard-rolls-out-echo-devices-us/

The free feature update, which has been trialed by a select few over the last few months, turns Echo speakers into security devices when no-one's home by allowing them to listen for key sounds indicating danger or intrusion.

Users need to say "Alexa, I'm leaving" to set Alexa Guard to Away mode, after which the device will listen for sounds like breaking glass and the sound of smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms.

According to TechCrunch, Amazon has worked with licensed contractors to break hundreds of different glass windows with different instruments in order to create a wide range of different sounds for Alexa to listen for.

Upon detecting an ominous sound, Alexa sends the owner Smart Alerts via phone notifications. Users can also play the detected sound from the Alexa mobile app or Drop In on their Echo device remotely to find out what's happening.

Alexa can arm a Ring or ADT security system, with the user able to choose to forward Smart Alerts they receive to Ring or ADT. Users with Away Lighting can also use the alert to turn on lights so as to make it look like they're actually home
 
The_Unnamed said:
I have gone through all the old posts regarding hooking up gate motors to smart home setups.
Is the best method still the one i have linked below?

https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/home-automation-smartkit.909279/page-106#post-21910457

There was a lot of discussion between the Sonoff SV and the Sonoff Inching devices which i have been unable to find a conclusive clear winner.
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It used to be the case that the Sonoff SV with stock firmware could not handle it, but in later firmwares they added software inching modes, which means the Sonoff SV can now handle it.

Sonoff SV can easily be flashed with Tasmota which also supports software inching modes.

The Sonoff Inching can handle it with the stock firmware as it basically has a hardware inching chip. This makes it much harder to use with Tasmota, however.

I have been running my Sonoff SVs for quite a while on my gate motors (one a Centurion, directly connected, the other a Gemini with the Sonoff SV connected to the remote control since I didn't have Wifi reception at the gate) and they both work well. I did however flash them with Tasmota and is controlling it from Home Assistant.
 
ebendl said:
It used to be the case that the Sonoff SV with stock firmware could not handle it, but in later firmwares they added software inching modes, which means the Sonoff SV can now handle it.

Sonoff SV can easily be flashed with Tasmota which also supports software inching modes.

The Sonoff Inching can handle it with the stock firmware as it basically has a hardware inching chip. This makes it much harder to use with Tasmota, however.

I have been running my Sonoff SVs for quite a while on my gate motors (one a Centurion, directly connected, the other a Gemini with the Sonoff SV connected to the remote control since I didn't have Wifi reception at the gate) and they both work well. I did however flash them with Tasmota and is controlling it from Home Assistant.
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Perfect, thanks for the feedback. I will be giving that a shot once my order is placed and delivered.
 
So after my automation to notify me when the Sonoff SV goes offline ran a few days I was able to correlate that it usually happens just after the garage has been opened and closed again, as if the board loses power temporarily.

Having a spare plug up there I decided bugger it and quickly soldered together a 5v charger from a Bluetooth headset and attached some header pins and power it separately.

So far so good. Seems the ET board is just bloody unstable.
 
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