Home Automation - Smartkit

[Steamy Tom]

Installed an RGBW flood light, connect to the Shelly One I got from Smartkit waaaay back.

nice ladder xD

 

[TedLasso]

Definitely wrong thread, but can led floodlights be dimmed? I have a whole bunch of 10w LED mounted in exterior walls.

Thinking of two use cases :-
1.
The flood lights facing into property to be dimmed by 50% when we need, for ‘ambience’
2. to save electricity and not flood our bedrooms with light, they also run at 50% or 25% normally but to go to 100% when alarm triggered.

RGBW floodlights - cool. I am also now tempted to replace a few with them.

 

[TedLasso]

Installed an RGBW flood light, connect to the Shelly One I got from Smartkit waaaay back.

Where do you install the Shelly, is it just on top of floodlight?

 

[xrapidx]

Where do you install the Shelly, is it just on top of floodlight?

In the ceiling other side of the wall.

 

[xrapidx]

nice ladder xD

That thing has had a tough life...

 

[SAguy]

So today I decided to add a few more Sonoffs. The initial plan:
1. Add 3 Sonoff mini's: toilet, bathroom, a spare that I want to use for automation for the bathroom infrared heater
2. Change the switch for the Veti 3 gang that is "position-less"
3. Add the bathroom infrared heater on a basic

I had a few stumbling blocks though:

• Realised that my study's lightswitch is directly behind the bathrooms, meaning I had more wires than anticipated in the conduit. It forced me to put a mini in the study too since the wiring for this switch was too thick to allow for everything to fit into the conduit.
  
  
• The Veti switch (see pics below) only has one common and the Live outs, which is a problem because each mini is it's own complete circuit

Because of the extra mini I had to put in, it meant I had 8 low voltage wires coming down from the roof to the switches - the conduit is way fuller than I'd want. It also meant I needed an extra surface box and flexible conduit to cater for the extra wiring and mini.

Some pics

The original inspection box after pulling through all the wiring (That's my finger in the bottom left.... I hope)



In progress


All connected


Done in the ceiling


The problem with the Veti


Put the old switch back (the wago connector in the back is temp for the spare mini, since the old switch is only 2 gang) Only mini switch wires in here now, no live wires.


And here is my grandest moment... Before I connected all the white wires down at the switch I had the power on to test that the mini's are working fine. I didn't switch the power back off and touched one of the exposed white wires to the metal housing... Poof! Moerse spark, light circuit tripped and...



I assume that the S1 and S2 are low voltage, so not entirely sure how hitting the metal housing (earth) I caused such a mess.

Luckily I had an extra mini to finish the job.

All in all, went ok - didn't get around to installing the heater since I have other things to get to. Took me 4 hours.
The biggest battle was pulling all the wiring through.
The best part was the wago connectors, first time I use them and they are lifechanging. To power all 4 mini's I simply used a 5 way Wago, forcing all that into a black connection block would have been a pain.

Keen for any tips on what I could have done better.
I'm just a bit disapointed about the switch, but I'll open one Veti up and see if I can't make a plan.

 

[Duke of Hazard]

The best part was the wago connectors, first time I use them and they are lifechanging.

Absolutely, they are quite possibly the best things since sliced bread.

 

[SAguy]

Absolutely, they are quite possibly the best things since sliced bread.

Just a bit pricey, but worth it.

 

[alqassam]

Can I use this to flash tasmota?

FTDI Chip FT234XD Development Kit LC234X | RS

za.rs-online.com

 

[TedLasso]

@SAguy: amazing job. Gonna be on lookout for wago connectors soon.

For those that connected their paradox to Hass using ip150 (v4 , swan) , how reliable has it been and is it true that once Hass is connected to the ip150, you really can't use insite gold anymore.

Also recommendations for cheap wireless magnetic switches that I can interface with hass directly. I want to put them on some doors and cupboards to see if they are opened when we are not home. Not trusting the domestic and we don't have locks on them.

 

[chickenbeef]

@SAguy: amazing job. Gonna be on lookout for wago connectors soon.

For those that connected their paradox to Hass using ip150 (v4 , swan) , how reliable has it been and is it true that once Hass is connected to the ip150, you really can't use insite gold anymore.

Also recommendations for cheap wireless magnetic switches that I can interface with hass directly. I want to put them on some doors and cupboards to see if they are opened when we are not home. Not trusting the domestic and we don't have locks on them.

I've had mine linked for about a month now and haven't had any issues. The home assistant UI is much more responsive than insite gold so I prefer it.

Yes, you cannot use insite gold when the add on is running in home assistant. Push notifications will still come through from the app though.

My insite gold subscription expires in a few months so I'm not too phased about it.

 

[TedLasso]

I've had mine linked for about a month now and haven't had any issues. The home assistant UI is much more responsive than insite gold so I prefer it.

Yes, you cannot use insite gold when the add on is running in home assistant. Push notifications will still come through from the app though.

My insite gold subscription expires in a few months so I'm not too phased about it.

To confirm, you connected with an IP150 running v4 firmware, and your connection is via Swan or is it local?

If Swan, then my question is , what happens when your insite gold subscription ends?

My point being, if we forced to continue to pay for swan when we run just via Hass feels unfair.

I still have a year left but gonna try to connect today if my children allow me . Biggest issue would be the wife. Maybe this could help push her to using hass.io more on her phone.

 

[hellfire]

View attachment 845707
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So cable goes from the contacts to my sv which is in that small little plastic box, then from the sv out and glue gunned along the rail to where the arm is positioned when closed

Would you please share a wiring diagram for the lazy among us?

 

[SAguy]

You guys think this is a good option to use on a Sonoff SV for my front sliding gate?
Has a bit more tolerance for if the gate doesn't close perfectly.

Roller shutter contact ECO

Roller shutter contact ECO for use with domestic or industrial roller shutter doors.Large gap size between door and floor - up to 40mm air gap.N/c wired contact which can be connected to any wired ...

www.alarmtec.co.za

 

[Steamy Tom]

Would you please share a wiring diagram for the lazy among us?

i will mock one up for you

 

[hellfire]

i will mock one up for you

Much appreciated.
Can I do that setup without flashing to Tasmota?

 

[Steamy Tom]

Much appreciated.
Can I do that setup without flashing to Tasmota?

Sonoff needs to be isolated mode.

for tasmota settings if you need

Switchretain 1
Powerretain 1
PulseTime1 1
switchmode1 0
switchmode2 2
switchtopic2 garagestate

GPIO14 set to switch2 in configuration

red and black to your motors 12/24V output
green and yellow to trigger and common
purple on GPIO14 to one side of the reed switch
brown to other side of the reed switch

To be honest I am not sure how you would do automation or monitor the status of open/close from the ewelink app itself. Are you running a hub of any sort?

 

[Steamy Tom]

You guys think this is a good option to use on a Sonoff SV for my front sliding gate?
Has a bit more tolerance for if the gate doesn't close perfectly.

Roller shutter contact ECO

Roller shutter contact ECO for use with domestic or industrial roller shutter doors.Large gap size between door and floor - up to 40mm air gap.N/c wired contact which can be connected to any wired ...

www.alarmtec.co.za

i use one of these on my garage door for my alarm system (i have a garage door on the road side), will work fine.

on my gate i use a wide gap magnetic contact like this

Magnetic MC31Contacts Wide Gap NC Circuit

Magnetic Contacts Wide Gap NC Circuit Gap width 35mm take and 55mm break

www.geewiz.co.za

also fyi

MAG NC-ZN4060G

Communica MAG NC-ZN4060G Access Automation Surface Mounted Zinc Magnetic Switch N/C with 430mm Cable and 40~60mm wide Gap Overview Surface Mounted Zinc Magnetic Switch ideal for Metal Door or Cabinet, Commercial Applications and where a Wide Gap is needed. Features 430mm Cable 40~60mm wide Gap...

www.communica.co.za

 

[alqassam]

Trying to get the lights to switch on when the gate opens

- id: '1591529035422'
alias: Turn on Garage light when gate opens
description: ''
trigger:
- payload: 'ON'
platform: mqtt
topic: cmnd/gatestate/POWER2
condition: []
action:
- data: {}
entity_id: light.outside_garage_light
service: light.on


Doesn't seem to want to work, can I change the action to a mqtt command? If so what would the code be

 

[Steamy Tom]

Trying to get the lights to switch on when the gate opens

- id: '1591529035422'
alias: Turn on Garage light when gate opens
description: ''
trigger:
- payload: 'ON'
platform: mqtt
topic: cmnd/gatestate/POWER2
condition: []
action:
- data: {}
entity_id: light.outside_garage_light
service: light.on


Doesn't seem to want to work, can I change the action to a mqtt command? If so what would the code be

i think you need more like

- alias: Turn on Garage light when gate opens
hide_entity: True
trigger:
- platform: state
entity_id: [cover.gate]
to: open
action:
service: light.turn_on
entity_id: [entity.name]

as a note you can fire the services under developer tools to test them