Home Automation - Smartkit

Very welcome! Let us know if you have any issues :)
 
The setup was one of my main concerns about selling, as it isn't straight forward. But as it works with Quikswitch and Sonoff, we thought we'd give it go.

Are you not able to do it on the PC, or is that only after the initial registration?

https://alexa.amazon.com

You should also get a trial of Spotify running, if you can and control it via Alexa. Download legit app (available on the Amazon site) called Amazon Underground. Through it, you can get Spotify.

I couldn't change my address (I probably never tried hard enough) but the timezone etc is correct as I use it as an alarm clock

PS You can add Pandora at no charge, and build artist radio stations ... Then Bluetooth to your main hifi. Also, I *think* there was a skill to link your Gmail and add to it. Can't recall offhand what else I have added
 
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The setup was one of my main concerns about selling, as it isn't straight forward. But as it works with Quikswitch and Sonoff, we thought we'd give it go.

Are you not able to do it on the PC, or is that only after the initial registration?

https://alexa.amazon.com

You should also get a trial of Spotify running, if you can and control it via Alexa. Download legit app (available on the Amazon site) called Amazon Underground. Through it, you can get Spotify.

I couldn't change my address (I probably never tried hard enough) but the timezone etc is correct as I use it as an alarm clock

PS You can add Pandora at no charge, and build artist radio stations ... Then Bluetooth to your main hifi. Also, I *think* there was a skill to link your Gmail and add to it. Can't recall offhand what else I have added

It is possible to subscribe to Spotify via various mechanisms - currently I'm paying for Spotify in Malta ;-)
 
A bit of bad news for the guys asking about OpenGarage :

The local distributor has decided to rather not go ahead due to a few challenges.

Apologies to those that were waiting
 
Dolby what do we do if we do not have a neutral wire
 
Dolby what do we do if we do not have a neutral wire

You have neutrals in the ceiling - they're just not pulled through the switch in most houses. So you have two options (the red thing is the Sonoff):

a) Pull them through to the switch via an electrician
b) Connect the units in the ceiling just before the light.

So as opposed to doing it like the example on right like I did, you'd have to do it like the left example. I was lucky and I've installed 4 behind the switches. My outside light, though, went just before the light like the left.

light.jpg
 
You have neutrals in the ceiling - they're just not pulled through the switch in most houses. So you have two options (the red thing is the Sonoff):

a) Pull them through to the switch via an electrician
b) Connect the units in the ceiling just before the light.

So as opposed to doing it like the example on right like I did, you'd have to do it like the left example. I was lucky and I've installed 4 behind the switches. My outside light, though, went just before the light like the left.

View attachment 467273
Ah this Complicates my life. My roof is a slab. So it will have to be done at the switches.

Will get my electrician to look at it.

Thanks
 
Ah this Complicates my life. My roof is a slab. So it will have to be done at the switches.

Will get my electrician to look at it.

Thanks

It's not impossible - Dolby's diagram doesn't quite explain the scernario. I have slabs and you just have to find the first light in the sequence (if you have multiple downlights), and hopefully you have enough space in the fitting, and attach it there. This situation is a nightmare for any smart home - and the UK is exactly the same!
 
It's not impossible - Dolby's diagram doesn't quite explain the scernario. I have slabs and you just have to find the first light in the sequence (if you have multiple downlights), and hopefully you have enough space in the fitting, and attach it there. This situation is a nightmare for any smart home - and the UK is exactly the same!
I actually think it might be simpler than I thought for one switches. . The downlights are controlled by some very weird transformer so I might be able to out it between the dB and the transformer.

I'm renovating the entire house so I will take these into consideration
 
I actually think it might be simpler than I thought for one switches. . The downlights are controlled by some very weird transformer so I might be able to out it between the dB and the transformer.

I'm renovating the entire house so I will take these into consideration

Hi alqassam.

That sounds a transformer for stepping down 220-240v to 12v - it's usually in older lights. Most modern lights use GU10 bulbs, which take 240v directly and step down to 12v within the bulb. However, these should all be in series, disconnect one and they all disconnect.
 
The Amazon Alexa just got smarter:

Amazon's Alexa can now recognise different voices

Alexa users can train Amazon's voice assistant to learn how to recognize different voices and personalize its services for multiple users.

Amazon's Alexa has evened up the score with Google Home and can now be used to set up multiple user accounts. Amazon's Alexa "voice profiles" allows the Echo, Echo Dot, and Echo Show to deliver personalized responses to everyone in your family or share house.


http://www.zdnet.com/article/amazons-alexa-can-now-recognise-different-voices/
 
Hi alqassam.

That sounds a transformer for stepping down 220-240v to 12v - it's usually in older lights. Most modern lights use GU10 bulbs, which take 240v directly and step down to 12v within the bulb. However, these should all be in series, disconnect one and they all disconnect.
That's correct.

Could I just connect it to the transformer. Alternatively I can remove the transformer completely and just go straight to 240v.

The transformer has a red and black wire which might be live and neutral.
 
That's correct.

Could I just connect it to the transformer. Alternatively I can remove the transformer completely and just go straight to 240v.

The transformer has a red and black wire which might be live and neutral.

There should be both a red and black wire going into the transformer. Then there would be 2 wires going to the lights. you need to connect it to the red and black BEFORE it reaches the transformer for it to work correctly.

DO NOT REMOVE the transformer, this steps the voltage down to a level that the bulbs can handle. Removing it is a guaranteed way to pop all the globes in your light array.
 
There should be both a red and black wire going into the transformer. Then there would be 2 wires going to the lights. you need to connect it to the red and black BEFORE it reaches the transformer for it to work correctly.

DO NOT REMOVE the transformer, this steps the voltage down to a level that the bulbs can handle. Removing it is a guaranteed way to pop all the globes in your light array.
Can remove the transformer and change the globes to 240v leds

The wiring is extremely untidy in the house
 
That's correct.

Could I just connect it to the transformer. Alternatively I can remove the transformer completely and just go straight to 240v.

The transformer has a red and black wire which might be live and neutral.

The options are a 12v Sonoff, after the transformer; a 240v Sonoff before the transformer; or, remove the transformer and replace with a GU10 240v cable. The last option is most likely the best, as these are the globes you'll want to use in future.
 
As we've had a few queries on these WiFi bulbs, so just letting people know they'll be available from next week :)

* E27 screw
* Dimmable
* Adjustable colour temperatures
* RBG Colour changing

The app allows scheduling, grouping, timer, scenes, sharing etc as well

R450.00 inc VAT

B1-Banner_top_new.jpg
 
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