Home Automation - Smartkit

1 and 2 definitely possible.
Get these instead of the regular Sonoff basic:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...tch-touch-control-panel-wifi/32845778982.html

It says US type, but they are in the form factor most light switches are in SA, and will work with our 220v.
That said, I am still waiting for mine in the post, so not sure yet how easy/difficult it will be to get Tasmota firmware on.

For 3, depends on what type of remote your Sherlotronic is. If not rolling codes, get a sonoff gateway, if rolling, then hope it has some sort of relay that those spare buttons can use to trigger something else.
He said it needs to work when the wifi is down?

However all Sonoff's contain the ESP8266 MCU, which features both Station and AP-mode. In AP mode he'd be able to connect directly to the node from his phone; that would be a chore though: choose AP, enter SSID, go to HA/MQTT app, turn on light.

From Steptronics' site it seems they employ code-hopping, so I'd get something like this http://sherlotronics.co.za/code-hopping-/44-150m-range-receivers-.html and have the NO contacts connected to a 12v - 240v relay to latch whenever the "light" button is pressed on the remote to close or open the circuit of the light in question
 
He said it needs to work when the wifi is down?

However all Sonoff's contain the ESP8266 MCU, which features both Station and AP-mode. In AP mode he'd be able to connect directly to the node from his phone; that would be a chore though: choose AP, enter SSID, go to HA/MQTT app, turn on light.

From Steptronics' site it seems they employ code-hopping, so I'd get something like this http://sherlotronics.co.za/code-hopping-/44-150m-range-receivers-.html and have the NO contacts connected to a 12v - 240v relay to latch whenever the "light" button is pressed on the remote to close or open the circuit of the light in question

Sonoffs work even when the wifi is down. It just means you press the physical button, and that works without wifi.

Then when the wifi is back up, you can use the app.

Thats why I linked to that specific light switch, its a nice way of having both physical switch and switch through app.

Agree with your #3 :P
 
Because the neutral runs straight back from the light fitting to the DB.
The two wires in your switch are the live feed from the DB and the switched feed from the switch to the bulb.

Neutral isn't needed in a normal switching application, so to save money, it's not pulled down the conduit to the switch.

Okay maybe I should have phrased that better.

I have two wires on each side of my switches not just two wires total.

So maybe they weren’t being cheap then?
 
Call me daft but why wouldn’t most switches have a neutral?

Mine all have two wires presumably one live and one neutral?

How would it work otherwise?

Live-in/live-out - the neutral is usually in the ceiling. A manual switch works by only cutting the live, not the neutral.
 
Live-in/live-out - the neutral is usually in the ceiling. A manual switch works by only cutting the live, not the neutral.

Yeah like I said above I know how it would work usually if just a simple 1-wire switch.
 
So I use THIS switch with the T433 as a "physical switch" against the wall, and then also use THIS remote.

Is there a bridge of sorts I need to be able to connect this to my wifi to use a mobile app?

Unless you fiddle with the GPIO.

But out the box the T433 or remote is the way to go.

You can use the RF Bridge to connect to the app, or use the Sonoff RF which has WiFi.
 
Because the neutral runs straight back from the light fitting to the DB.
The two wires in your switch are the live feed from the DB and the switched feed from the switch to the bulb.

Neutral isn't needed in a normal switching application, so to save money, it's not pulled down the conduit to the switch.

Seems shortsighted now, doesn't it?
 
Should be easy enough to run a ripcord down the conduit for a neutral, and connect it to a neutral bus somewhere?

CoC is another story though?
 
It is possible - Dolby's house has neutrals.

Yeah I have no plans to do switches any time soon but pretty sure my light switches are wires much like my plugs with red/black pairs.

House was built by an architect so maybe took some extra measures.
 
Sonoffs work even when the wifi is down. It just means you press the physical button, and that works without wifi.

Then when the wifi is back up, you can use the app.

Thats why I linked to that specific light switch, its a nice way of having both physical switch and switch through app.

Agree with your #3 :P
Ah, I didn't know that about the buttons. Thanks for that! :)
 
CoC is another story though?

I wonder what the correct CoC way would be - going to be a mission to do I guess. Have to run neutrals from the DB board to every light switch, a mission.

For the new T1 I see you can use it with RF as well, which is great. Just to check though, if my wifi is down will I still be able to switch the light on and off using the switch? The app won't work if wifi is down of course, but RF and the switch would still?
 
Please note that the Sonoff T1 AU/US will only be released by Sonoff on 18 April - and then it will still need to be shipped locally. Please feel free to pre-order here. We should have stock before the end of the month.

Note: you will need a neutral cable in your switch to power the WiFi (neutral in only). Most South Africa light switches do not have a neutral cable!

you sure about about 18th?

I see it already here: https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-t1-us.html
 
I wonder what the correct CoC way would be - going to be a mission to do I guess. Have to run neutrals from the DB board to every light switch, a mission.

For the new T1 I see you can use it with RF as well, which is great. Just to check though, if my wifi is down will I still be able to switch the light on and off using the switch? The app won't work if wifi is down of course, but RF and the switch would still?

Yes.
 
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