Home Automation - Smartkit

Could one do mac address filtering somehow?
You would generally only access home from certain devices, at least its another level of protection.

vpn is just a problem if you have apps that do push messages, like an alarm or camera. Otherwise your phone would need to be on vpn all the time.

Edit: Nevermind, forgot that mac address isn't routed over the internet
 
Last edited:
SAguy said:
Could one do mac address filtering somehow?
You would generally only access home from certain devices, at least its another level of protection.

vpn is just a problem if you have apps that do push messages, like an alarm or camera. Otherwise your phone would need to be on vpn all the time.
Click to expand...

Nope. Mac is layer 2, it's not propagated across the net. You could do source IP filtering but that's not guaranteed to work either.
Push notifications, use an outbound service like NotifyMyAndroid or an email to SMS gateway or something. Port forwarding wouldn't change how that works. In fact, if you're talking direct connection from your alarm to your handheld, port forwarding would not work at all.
 
Sinbad said:
Nope. Mac is layer 2, it's not propagated across the net. You could do source IP filtering but that's not guaranteed to work either.
Push notifications, use an outbound service like NotifyMyAndroid or an email to SMS gateway or something. Port forwarding wouldn't change how that works. In fact, if you're talking direct connection from your alarm to your handheld, port forwarding would not work at all.
Click to expand...

Interesting, will test out not doing port forwarding on camera app (vpn only) and see if I still get push notifications. Thinking about it now, push notification is exactly that, pushing - not my phone polling the service. Blond'ish moment.
 
Any idea if it's possible to pair the kwikswitch switches with the Sonoff RF/4ch pro/slampher etc?
 
Ok here is an update.

The T1 US takes Tasmota no problems, just some tips:

Read this first: https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Sonoff-T1-UK-and-T1-EU (most of it is correct)
Watch this next: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chyVjtYb0EA Basics for flashing
Watch this after: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Cw4n8Y9mBg For the touch but give you an idea.
Read this for MQTT on a multi gang unit: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/sonoff-t1-uk-2-channel-mqtt-configuration-help-please/37565/5

T1 specific tips:
Use the 5 pogo holes not the 4 holes.
Take the board off the relays when flashing
To get into flashing mode hold down gang 1 and then press the reset. Let go of gang 1 when the status light stops blinking.
The board uses 5v but its flashes just fine on 3.3v.
The board is not stable when powered by USB, will constantly resets to default. On 230v its been stable.

Not fitted it to the wall yet just bench tested while connected to a wall plug, but I think i can see the issue with the backing plate. In the US with the wendy houses they live in, they have concise holes which mount into flush plastic wall boxes. Here is SA your wall box depth/size is dependant on how much the builder had to drink that morning. The backing plate allows for very little tolerance, so in a lot of cases it might fall in, or sit proud on the outside.

I don't think that anyone really fells like rebuilding their wall boxes so this could be better solved with a redesigned, 3D printed backplate. Slightly wider flush backing that extends past the glass light switch and a recessing the indentation that goes into the wall.
I was always looking for a reason to buy a 3D printer...
 
Do you think maybe it's not stable because you ran it on 3.3v USB?
 
I tried on both, still very unstable on USB power. I think all the electronics lighting up the switches and powering the gang controller draw too much for little USB to power. But its fine on 230v so i dont think there is any issue with the device.
 
Ok mounted up to the wall, its working but it looks ****ty.

As expected the backing plate is not a match for my wall box. Also, the metal piece that holds the screw thread in the wall box is long the body of the Sonoff cant fit in the recess. I managed to file that down and that's fine. Check the pics.

What I started with
IMG_20180505_120843.jpg

What it was changed to
IMG_20180505_122743.jpg

Not so bad from the front.
IMG_20180505_123102.jpg

The rest not great.
IMG_20180505_123118.jpg
IMG_20180505_123128.jpg
IMG_20180505_123508.jpg

Gonna get the dremel out and try make a miracle, but the only proper solution is a backing plate better suited to the wallboxes.
 
Hmm... Tried putting mine in but couldn't find a neutral and my lights are wired up strangely. Taking out lounge light broke kitchen light so think im just going to get an electrician
 
Did abit more work to try and neaten up the installation. Cut the backing plate down to make it a little more flush. The bottom is still as issue, the screw thread is flush with the outside of the wall box so the backing plate stands proud. I still dont think this can be done neatly in SA wall boxes without a more suitable backing plate. And Sonoff are not going to build a T1 SA anytime soon.

IMG_20180505_165130.jpg
IMG_20180505_170150.jpg
IMG_20180505_170157.jpg
IMG_20180505_170206.jpg

Ok 3D printers are expensive and I don't have much use for one other than this.
Anyone have the skills and a machine which could push out a prototype?
 
I have a couple of colleagues with 3d printers...
 
Sinbad said:
The arrogance is even stronger.
Click to expand...

Wow goodness, talk about arrogance.

Some of the things he rants on about is true though:
- putting high amp loads on a Sonoff
- using the eWeLink app and stock firmware (luckily for him the app is so bad that nobody will continue using it for long)

I've watched other videos too where the guys warn about using the basic in the little standard box that it comes with - you need to put it inside something more secure.
 
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