Home Automation - Smartkit

Red and black isn't old. It's standard for installation stuff. Red for live, black for neutral.
 
Sinbad said:
Red and black isn't old. It's standard for installation stuff. Red for live, black for neutral.
Click to expand...

This is why I'm apprehensive to try to identify wires myself.

Electrician came now quick and we checked one switch. It had a bunch of red and black wires in there but he said no neutral. So I don't think you can identify it just by the sheathing color.
 
Red or Brown is live, black or blue is neutral. White usually for switched.

To test if a line is live you can put your meter on volts ac and put one probe on the live wire and one probe on earth, should read 220v. If you put one probe on a black wire and one one probe on earth it should usually read a very small voltage, but not anywhere near 220v. That should be neutral.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician and if you're not comfortable then rather get one out.
 
If the wire colours are incorrect and there are no other labels/markers then your electrical isn't compliant and won't pass CoC.

Sheathing is the correct way to identify wires, which is why there is a standard.
 
At least this educated me enough now, to know I need to buy some black wires to stay with the color scheme in my house, to add the neutrals to light switches.
 
OK TinkerCAD is rather easy to use. I've made an additional base plate for the T1 to supplement the existing. Should be ready Monday/Tuesday.
 
Tinuva said:
Ok thank you, didn't know that. Was definitely confused looking at it when replacing the plugs earlier.
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Yup for "backbone" off the DB electrics it's black/red/green(yellow) whereas for plugs it's brown/blue/green(yellow).

I believe the colour directly relates to the guage and supported amps but might be wrong.

12V normally being black or white only with no earth.
 
So managed to find the neutral but I can’t seem to get the T1s linked to the WiFi.

Anyone have any ideas? I press the button, hear a beep and the blue light flashes... tried both iOS and Android apps
 
Pho3nix said:
So managed to find the neutral but I can’t seem to get the T1s linked to the WiFi.

Anyone have any ideas? I press the button, hear a beep and the blue light flashes... tried both iOS and Android apps
Click to expand...

When you say button you're referring to the touch screen on/off ring for the light? Not sure if there are other buttons.

And then in ewelink when you try to add a new device what happens?
 
SAguy said:
When you say button you're referring to the touch screen on/off ring for the light? Not sure if there are other buttons.

And then in ewelink when you try to add a new device what happens?
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Yeah, the top touchscreen button off/off ring:

Nothing, have my POWs attached to the WiFi so don’t think it’s channel related :|
EWeLink doesn’t do anything.

On two different T1s
 
Ok so my Sonoff POW R2 saw an afternoon of Tumble drying at 2500w peak with fairly consistent loads of 2000w. Didn't get hot or act chinese.

If only I could get it to tell me the wattage.
 
calypso said:
OK TinkerCAD is rather easy to use. I've made an additional base plate for the T1 to supplement the existing. Should be ready Monday/Tuesday.
Click to expand...

Keen to see what your design looks like? Thanks for taking the time to work on this problem!
 
Update, think it might be phone related. Remembered my POWs wouldn’t link when I used my IPhones but worked with my Redmi2. Replaced the redmi with a P20 lite and no work.

Gonna try with the Redmi tonight and advise.

Also, anyone just shaved the backplate with a dremel to get it working fine? Looking for a reason to get one
 
Pho3nix said:
Update, think it might be phone related. Remembered my POWs wouldn’t link when I used my IPhones but worked with my Redmi2. Replaced the redmi with a P20 lite and no work.

Gonna try with the Redmi tonight and advise.

Also, anyone just shaved the backplate with a dremel to get it working fine? Looking for a reason to get one
Click to expand...

I messed around with a dremel, but didn't get to a working solution - I didn't mess around with the original backplate though. So, go buy a dremel, maybe you figure out something I couldn't. There are a million uses for them, I use mine often.
 
Of interest, do any of you use the TP Link bulbs?
 
Pho3nix said:
Update, think it might be phone related. Remembered my POWs wouldn’t link when I used my IPhones but worked with my Redmi2. Replaced the redmi with a P20 lite and no work.

Gonna try with the Redmi tonight and advise.

Also, anyone just shaved the backplate with a dremel to get it working fine? Looking for a reason to get one
Click to expand...

Please let us know if you come right.

I just sold my last T1 (there are more on the way) - so I can't even test for you!
 
Pho3nix said:
Update, think it might be phone related. Remembered my POWs wouldn’t link when I used my IPhones but worked with my Redmi2. Replaced the redmi with a P20 lite and no work.

Gonna try with the Redmi tonight and advise.

Also, anyone just shaved the backplate with a dremel to get it working fine? Looking for a reason to get one
Click to expand...
I couldn't find my Dremel bits so I just sawed the backing plate down. Not perfect, but big improvement.
 
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