Home Automation - Smartkit

[ToxicBunny]

Most Sonoff products will be on sale, you'll have to see on Friday!

(The iFan02 will be one of them)

I need to catalog what I have at home currently and then go from there in terms of what I might be purchasing on Friday.... you swines, I wanted to wait until payday.....

 

[SauRoNZA]

Definitely not neutral. Those 2 way switches only take live and a wire to another 2 way switch.

Let's assume I'm a retard could I introduce the Shelly 1 easily enough at the light fitting side where the neutral comes in without any major additional wiring and without pulling it down to the light switch?

Surely I would bridge it where the light switch wiring comes up and the neutral should be right there at the first light in the chain?

 

[calypso]

Let's assume I'm a retard could I introduce the Shelly 1 easily enough at the light fitting side where the neutral comes in without any major additional wiring and without pulling it down to the light switch?

Surely I would bridge it where the light switch wiring comes up and the neutral should be right there at the first light in the chain?

Yep you can pull a neutral off the light fitting, if im understanding what you saying.

Id still just get a T1.

 

[ToxicBunny]

Let's assume I'm a retard could I introduce the Shelly 1 easily enough at the light fitting side where the neutral comes in without any major additional wiring and without pulling it down to the light switch?

Surely I would bridge it where the light switch wiring comes up and the neutral should be right there at the first light in the chain?

Actually thats a DAMN good question, and would possibly make the Shelley's an even bigger attraction.

Put them up into the roof in the lighting circuit and use the live coming back up from the switch into the Switching point... would require no additional wiring in the house itself...... and you could support multi-gang switches nicely as well...

 

[Tinuva]

Let's assume I'm a retard could I introduce the Shelly 1 easily enough at the light fitting side where the neutral comes in without any major additional wiring and without pulling it down to the light switch?

Surely I would bridge it where the light switch wiring comes up and the neutral should be right there at the first light in the chain?

I am sure you could do that. There needs to be a neutral at first light, after the DB board.
If you could fit the shelly1 in, in the light enclosure, usually metal between the bulb and ceiling, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do this. Other than the awkward position working on a ladder.

Since you mentioned I need to assume you are a retard, I am adding my TnCs in saying that if you hurt yourself it is not my fault, and please remember to turn off the light at the DB board before you begin.

 

[rodga]

Unfortunately, up until now we've absorbed both the extra 1% VAT and the exchange rate. However with the drop in the Rand over the last few months, we've had to adjust our pricing upwards.

EDIT: you may be able to thank uncle Tito for a decrease in pricing next time around!

I'm assuming you did a general price increase across the board? Noticed some prices increased but not sure.

Great for holding out so long on the old pricing, but an increase just before a sale kind of sucks a bit.

 

[SmartKit]

I'm assuming you did a general price increase across the board? Noticed some prices increased but not sure.

Great for holding out so long on the old pricing, but an increase just before a sale kind of sucks a bit.

Thanks Zuma :-/

Edit: all new stock so prices adjusted across the board based on prevailing exchange rate.

Actually we decreased the price on the Sonoff Basics!

 

[SauRoNZA]

Yep you can pull a neutral off the light fitting, if im understanding what you saying.

Id still just get a T1.

That would require running neutrals all the way to the light switch.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Actually thats a DAMN good question, and would possibly make the Shelley's an even bigger attraction.

Put them up into the roof in the lighting circuit and use the live coming back up from the switch into the Switching point... would require no additional wiring in the house itself...... and you could support multi-gang switches nicely as well...

Exactly my thinking.

And odds are since I have a bunch of downlights all over there is a nice junction box to hide it all in up there.

Will need to investigate on a cold day.

 

[ToxicBunny]

Exactly my thinking.

And odds are since I have a bunch of downlights all over there is a nice junction box to hide it all in up there.

Will need to investigate on a cold day.

I have to go crawling in my ceiling this weekend, so I will investigate the options at that point, but on the surface of it and knowing my wiring, the Shelly might actually be a much better fit for automating light switches, without removing the switch itself (which I can't due to a vaguely technophobic missus)

 

[SauRoNZA]

I think the techophonic missus is why the Shelly was created.

Seriously I’ve seen that comment everywhere on the internet since investigating it.

 

[ToxicBunny]

I think the techophonic missus is why the Shelly was created.

Seriously I’ve seen that comment everywhere on the internet since investigating it.

Yup...

Mine is adamant that there will be manual switches on the wall... and with the Sonoff that is a nightmare to try and solve, the Shelly though might just make it a doddle to solve...

 

[ipodmusicman]

Yup...

Mine is adamant that there will be manual switches on the wall... and with the Sonoff that is a nightmare to try and solve, the Shelly though might just make it a doddle to solve...

That is why I am going the QwikSwitch route.
- wall switch - tick
- automation of lights - tick
- dimmable lighting - big tick

Yes, QS relays are more expensive than Sonoff (about R500 per relay) , but there is currently no equivalent product that I have found on the market that matches what QS has - unless I’ve been living under a rock. LOL

 

[SauRoNZA]

Yup...

Mine is adamant that there will be manual switches on the wall... and with the Sonoff that is a nightmare to try and solve, the Shelly though might just make it a doddle to solve...

Can do it with the Sonoff Basic easily enough but you need space for it.

Which if you put it in the ceiling won’t be as much of a ball ache.

Come to think of it I still have a Basic spare so I can trial run it with that.

 

[ToxicBunny]

Can do it with the Sonoff Basic easily enough but you need space for it.

Which if you put it in the ceiling won’t be as much of a ball ache.

Come to think of it I still have a Basic spare so I can trial run it with that.

Yeah, you can......

and I have a few Basics I inteded doing that with, but if I can get my hands on the Shelleys then they would be better in my opinion.

 

[patrick123]

Can do it with the Sonoff Basic easily enough but you need space for it.

Which if you put it in the ceiling won’t be as much of a ball ache.

Come to think of it I still have a Basic spare so I can trial run it with that.

If you are using Home Assist with the Sonoff flashed with Tasmoto, it could be quite easy.
You can leave the Sonoff basic in the ceiling, run 2 wires down from pins 4 and 5 (Gnd & GPIO14) and put those on your light switch only 3.3v instead of 220v, might have to add in a filter for any noise ( a simple capacitor and resistor).
You would need to do a little configuration in Tasmota though.

 

[TedLasso]

The question is how long these devices will last in South African roofs with the insane temperatures they can get to? Also must make consideration for reliable WiFi signal in roof

 

[SauRoNZA]

The question is how long these devices will last in South African roofs with the insane temperatures they can get to? Also must make consideration for reliable WiFi signal in roof

Considering our ceilings in most houses should be no problem at all.

Ceiling is virtually transparent to Wifi.

 

[SauRoNZA]

If you are using Home Assist with the Sonoff flashed with Tasmoto, it could be quite easy.
You can leave the Sonoff basic in the ceiling, run 2 wires down from pins 4 and 5 (Gnd & GPIO14) and put those on your light switch only 3.3v instead of 220v, might have to add in a filter for any noise ( a simple capacitor and resistor).
You would need to do a little configuration in Tasmota though.

Yup it's well documented.

Not much to do in Tasmota other than select it as a Switch instead of a Sensor or whatever.

GND & GPIO14 are 3.3v by default? Doesn't need any hacking as I recall.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Here we go.